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Rancho Lift Feedback

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Other than the cost, the need for aftermarket wheels, and the blocked steering rack bolt....its a great kit./QUOTE]

What are the exact requirements for new wheels with the kit? I had everything already setup on my and never had to look into it any.
 

gfbh3t

Well-Known Member
Messages
140
Location
Lockport, NY
We tried to fit multiple steel rims and could not find any that would fit. Aluminum rims will fit. Have new trail ready beadlocks to go on when I get home.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Ok heres some info on the springs...

First off they do there job for a while. Mine lasted 2 weeks. I went offroading after 2 weeks of putting it on the shackles were on the frame rails.

Like 4speed said the H3T may benefit a bit due to the fact that T springs are softer and this is for a 3 so it will be a tad stiffer and may retain height a little bit better

Here is the design flaw IMO.

The actual spring is 2 inches longer then the stock spring which makes ZERO sense, well it does somewhat in terms of ride quality goals set out by rancho but a spring that is staying in the same mounting position shouldnt be longer. If more lift is needed it should be arched more. Here is where I learned that. Deaver springs, His heavy duty lift springs were the same length as my stockers but gave more lift then the longer spring itself.

Stock vs rancho spring

2012-01-24_08-33-10_267.jpg


2012-01-24_08-32-48_492.jpg


Deaver uses the same length with a bigger arch and puts the shackle in a happier place

2012-03-31_09-33-18_211.jpg


2012-02-03_18-11-23_476-1.jpg


Rancho pushes the shackle back for a softer ride

clip_image001.gif


I understand why there goal is a soft ride. 90% of people who lift their 4x4s, trucks, etc dont wheel. Its all about the ride quality for on road.

So I see problems with the spring itself and my personal answer to cure it is to start over with a new spring. Is it necessary? Hell no, tons of people wheel the crap out of them with the rancho springs but I opted to go a different route. I understand that not everyone can just go chopping away at their rig and do a spring over because I was in those shoes and it took me a while to come around. So for bolt on options

Get a custom spring done with more arch like I did from deaver, you can go to a local spring shop and have them build you a set

Keep the rancho springs and do air bags

or shackle

or add a leafs

I just dont want people to be bummed out when its sagging right away.

So with all that said, is it a great kit? YES. Does it have flaws? YES. but every design from stock to modified has pros and cons. If something was 100% awesome then everyone would do it. I would definitely do the kit again. It rides great and performs well on and off road. I would say that some other things to look out for is custom ucp as the bars eliminate that, I did some tube and welded it in and made one piece and it works great and for mud it doesnt matter but for rocks I bent the bar mounts forward so I need to weld them into place

2012-03-01_13-49-47_969.jpg


Another thing you might want to look out for is the fact that the steering rack bolt is in the way. In the event of changing it then it requires torsion bar removal LCA removal and crossmember removal. Notch it the crossmember and it will be easier then stock removal due to the added room the lift provides.

2012-02-11_18-32-16_681.jpg


1AF503CE-1167-4D30-AB36-153D31EAFDD8-196-000000C7EFB379E9_zps3c45337e.jpg


EEAF0CF1-274E-498D-833E-94F17EE498F4-196-000000C7E2474D67_zps74e3a472.jpg


COG: It goes up but your tires go out also. I understand the goal of lowest height biggest tire but remember in a purpose built buggy that is much more feasible where you can keep everything clearanced high and tucked away get a big tire and a low height but in vehicles like a Hummer, jeep, other 4x4s I think a mild 2-4in lift does wonders as we dont have that flat belly. I wouldnt worry about the COG with this kit your not going up 8in only 4 lol. I havent rolled and have been put on some steep side slopes, the added clearance has put me in places where a stock height one would struggle.

I think the biggest thing here is to be open to further modifications. Remember, my reason for lifting it was to further enhance its capabilities and to further enhance the capabilities of the rancho kit some modifications should be done and the nice thing is that it doesnt have to be done all at once, over time I changed things and made it better. It this is all for looks its just bolt in and go but this kit can be used for tough wheeling too.

Lastly, go ahead and do it and have fun with it and Tapadt3t I would do a spring over if you plan on doing a solid axle swap as you stated after the warranty. Rancho it spring over it and its one less thing to do later.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Feel free to ask more questions and check out my own rancho build thread, spring over thread, rancho lift kit detailed review thread and the rancho lift thread for more info or post up and I can try to answer
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Oh and one more thing....

FORGET ALL THAT if you go spring-over! (06H3...chime-in if you agree). The SOA solves all your sag problems, gives you better ground clearance, and more flex. Also, the entire mod costs less than what Rancho wants for just the leafs alone! Having been down this road and done all these mods in several prior stages...I can honestly say that my next H3, will immediately jump from bone stock...to SOA in the rear and Rancho in the front. I wouldn't even mess with installing Ranchos in the spring-under. Just move your stock GM springs to the top and run em.

Then if you get real ambitious... go for the SAS!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
yes, my truck is 10000 times more capable since I did the spring over. I didnt push that topic just because it is the most work out of them all but if you want the perfect setup while keeping stock components (without going bebe ifs or solid axle) I would say the rancho spring over is the way to go.

If you werent going to do the spring over I would say air bags...Its adjustable and Id avoid add a leafs in SPRING UNDER form just because it lowers ground clearance at the spring mount.

Just trying to give all possible options.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
4.5" or less backspacing
6x5.5" bolt pattern
100.6mm or larger hub bore

Okay that makes sense my 20's that it came with have 5'' backspacing, Which is stock spacing I believe..... I was trying to figure what was different, when i drop down to 17's I'll need 4.5"... good to know!
 

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
FWIW, I have had a Tough Country lift on for 10k+ miles. The truck rides a lot stiffer now than it did before. Not sure how to correct that...might need longer shocks?

Off road it has performed much better than stock -- definitely helps with the longer wheelbase. On road...it has not been helpful to the ride quality. :gaah:
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
FWIW, I have had a Tough Country lift on for 10k+ miles. The truck rides a lot stiffer now than it did before. Not sure how to correct that...might need longer shocks?

post it up in the tuff country thread and I will try to help. Dont wanna mix up topics

Ram rod the stock backspacing is 5.83.
 

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
06H3, that's exactly the answers I was looking for!!! THANKS! Now is it possible to save some cost and just buy the rancho front (not whole kit) and do a spring over rear at the same time.. If that's possible I will go ahead and find a reputable spring shop and go with that route...
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Idk if a spring shop would do it but a fab shop would. Stock springs and then ruff stuff fab parts I can post up the parts needed.
 

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Idk if a spring shop would do it but a fab shop would. Stock springs and then ruff stuff fab parts I can post up the parts needed.

Your the man!!
I will contact rancho to see about having to purchase the full kit or just the things I need.. If that doesn't work out I know an excellent fab guy who can do lifts.. I just wanted to warranty aspect!!!
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I wonder if rancho will do it...I remember tim said they would but I am not sure if you have to go through a rancho dealer to do that.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
IMG_0766.jpg
Here is how the leaf's set on my T.... come to think of it I bet that clunk sound I hear on BIG bumps must be the shackle swinging up into the frame... I should investigate that further!
 

skippy

Well-Known Member
Messages
471
Location
brisbane australia
Great kit for the front don't waste your time though with the rear springs they claim they fixed the problem but I call bull****. I got "improved springs" but still sagged. Get custom arched springs or go spring over for the best performance on and offroad a shop can do it if you guys don't want to

the way i combat the sag is i have airbags in the rear so i can raise and lower it from inside the cab

i like the rancho kit works well and the ride is great to
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
That's an atrocious shackle angle

Yes indeed (all H3's are that way). There needs to be some angle to those, however...so the shackle "swings" when the springs grow (as you hit bumps). That shackle angle probably plays a part in the ride quality. The upward motion of the spring eye gets transferred and absorbed by the shackle swinging rearward...almost like a damper. Not only does the shackle allow the spring to grow longer...it also adds some "squish" to the suspension it as it lays back. I'm not saying it does much by itself but, it seems like the more vertical your shackles are...the stiffer your ride would be (given the same spring).

I just saw Han's latest pics, and his extended shackles are nearly straight up and down...
5ysutene.jpg

I know he's running double add-a-leafs which certainly contributes to the harshness but, I wonder if his shackles play a part as well? If his springs are super-stiff...it looks like there would be no "swing" at all to the shackles, and thus...no "squish" as they lay back. Basically a solid bar connecting the spring eye to the frame. Also...I wonder if another situation could happen during full-droop. Seems to me like you would never want the shackle angle to pass vertical, even during full-droop. By this I mean...you always want the lower bolt (at the spring eye) aft of the upper bolt (at the frame), throughout the entire cycle of the suspension. This insures that the shackle continues to properly swing rearward as you return the suspension from full droop, and doesn't inadvertently SNAP to the other direction and want to fold forward (taking the main spring with it). That would be very bad. Not sure if this is even possible but, its just an observation.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I have heard of shackels flipping, going inward..... but have only seen it in person on a hombuilt trailer...

Should I look at getting extended shackels then? would that help? or would it be better to just save up for some stock length-high arch replacement leafs?
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
I agree with you CJ, It makes sense and those are deavers but I wonder if going back to oem shackles will help. It would push that shackle back a bit. I do understand ranchos goal. Push the shackle back for ride quality but thats too much.

Ramrod good thing you didnt make that bed camper yet. Your springs cant handle that weight. You weld? Right? I would look into a spring over. I mean you already have 37s an alpha, a rancho lift, this will bring it to a new level of performance then I would add in the 2500 spring like bebe did to help handle the extra weight you throw in the back.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Ramrod good thing you didnt make that bed camper yet. Your springs cant handle that weight. You weld? Right? I would look into a spring over. I mean you already have 37s an alpha, a rancho lift, this will bring it to a new level of performance then I would add in the 2500 spring like bebe did to help handle the extra weight you throw in the back.

I gotta look for bebe's build thread (if there is one) I keep hearing reference to his, would really like to start planning a SOA. I say planning because there are a couple of things that I am trying (need) to do before I start that mod
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I wouldn't get too froggy with a spring decision, ahead of time. Its one of those things where every truck is different, and you should try the SOA with bone-stock springs first...just to see where you're at. Its very possible that they won't need any tweeking at all, especially if they are already sagging in the stock position. Unlike the SOA...swapping just the leafs (or adding leafs) at a later date is a simple process and doesn't require you to completely pull the axle out from under the truck.
 

TAPDH3T

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,510
Location
Texarkana, Texas
Thanks for all the info guys.. Just got approved for my lift and new tires.. I found one in Austin for a heck of a deal.. If all goes well I will have enough left over to do my SOA...
 
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