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How many miles are on it? You have to remember, even the newest h3 is 14-15 years old at this point, with yours being 18 years old. They have little to no support left, and you have to get creative. They're going to need maintenance, a lot of maintenance

I've always heard non greaseable is better since it does not have the channels for the grease, it is therefore inherently stronger vs the greaseable one.

And then painted.

Had to figure out where the rear abs sensors were going to go. I picked up a set of gm sensor mounts designed from wfo concepts, originally designed for gm sas swaps with ford axles, however I just needed rhe sensor mount part, since that is largely the same across gm vehicles.....or so I...

Bump

Progressing along, front axle is completely welded, all brackets gusseted, weld washers on everything. Did one more mockup before welding the frame hoops. This is at full stuff and droop. Everything clears and cycles, should be right around 4.5 inches of up travel. Coilovers at ride height are...

To do it the "right way" you have a few options 1. Starr HIDs, which im fairly certain they dont make anymore 2. Retrofitting HID or LED projector into the oem housing 3. lased design 7 inch headlight adapter, lets you run basically any aftermarket 7 inch headlight, but they have been out of...

Your best bet is to find a set of lased design adapters or make your own. The standard 7 inch round headlight fits the best IMO. You can take the factory housing apart and add halos or projectors if you want. IMO get/find the adapter and buy the morimoto super 7 led projector. they are the best...

You shouldn't have any problem rebuilding the 5.3 you have. basically all of the guts are the same as any other gen IV gm LS engine. If you're tearing it all the way down with 200k miles on it, i would definitely take it to a machine shop and have it gone over before you reassemble it. As far...

Got the third link upper all welded in and gusseted. Maybe overboard on the gussets but better safe than sorry

Front. I haven't decided if I want to do the rears. The liners are still installed so I'm being lazy about that haha

Small side project. I decided since I had everything apart, I would get rid of the push plastic clips that hold the fender in. I drilled each hole out and added 1/4x20 stainless steel rivnuts and plus nuts for the plastic. I'll now run bolts similar to the one 10mm that's already there to hold...

Its funny you mention the oil pan, because the track bar is very close, i mean like an inch or 2 away from it. I was looking around and saw it and was like huh guess that's a good thing that it doesn't hit haha. The top of the diff tucks nicely into the gap between the motor and frame

If this comes out soon. I'll probably stop my SAS v2.0 and go back to IFS.

FYI thats not a CBphoto winch bumper. I am pretty sure CBphoto winch plate was something that attached to the D rings in front of the bumper. That looks to be a DeFelice winch bumper mount. https://defeliceoi.wordpress.com/category/h3-winch-mount/

That is a potential issue, however mathematically they should really only rub the front bumper since i pushed the axle further forward, and that is easy enough to trim.

Shoutout to CJ (4speed) for welding up the trackbar, draglink, and tierod on the lathe as well as drilling out the sterring arm for tie rod ends. After cycling everything again I determined that at full stuff on both sides, the passenger side was hitting the frame on the trackbar I was...

Even though we won't be there, ordered 2 as well.

Hey all. Unfortunately we need to back out. I grossly underestimated how long it would take me to finish this build. It's still in several pieces and getting to back together would mean rushing things, which I don't want to do. See you all in 2025!

My dude, this thread is 10 plus years old, those wheels are lonnnnnnng gone, and I'm pretty sure the owner sold his h3 year ago as well.