10bolt front diff tech

[06 H3]

How does it rub? Bebe is using stock knuckles. Is it rubbing on the control arms?

 

[atvspeed4]

How does it rub? Bebe is using stock knuckles. Is it rubbing on the control arms?

I know she is using stock knuckles, It rubs the control arms. Not just a little, alot. I took the time to take the stock cv and diff out, install the 2500 CV put everything back together and check for clearance and it will not work. The 1500 cv will though.

 

[bebe]

OK, Bear with me - here is the 1 ton in the knuckle, I have some more pics but have to fix them up

 

[bebe]

Here is it complete, stock H3 and the bebemonster

 

[bebe]

We tried clearing 1 ton cvs with stock suspension and it will not work. While it physically fits into the wheel bearing and knuckle the boots rub really bad in several places and no matter how you adjust the cv it rubs. It gets even worse when you turn the knuckle. The straight axle toyoda front with the 8" is a high pinion out of a landcruiser right? I am pretty sure with stock suspension it will not fit as you will hit the oilpan just like we discovered with the GM 8.5 LP

Actually no, I was referring to the 4 runner.

 

[bebe]

That housing would take more work than Dan's - with his you could order it welded but without the tubes, or have him cut the tubes to your specs, add the drop=out, bearing retainers, stubshafts etc...and you have a housing that will fit any way you want it too.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TOY8.html

 

[bebe]

Trail gear makes the rock assault axle you could get without tubes

 

[am4x4]

There seems to be a little confusion/misinformation on the Toyota stuff so I thought I would clear it up.

86-95 IFS front = 7.5" ring gear pass side diff. Cast iron center section. Not a drop out third like the toy rear axles.

Everything newer than 95 (Tacoma/fj cruiser/3rd gen 4runner) is drivers side diff so it won't work for you guys.

One possible option if you want Toyota stuff would be to cut down a rear axle to the correct width and offset. You would get an 8" ring gear and a true dropout. The best axle to use would be from a 79-85 and it is also the cheapest, they can be had for around $100. It would be a lot of work but they hold up pretty well in the front of trucks that are close to the weight of your rigs, I think it would hold up fine to 37" tires and any terrain most sane people would drag an H3 through.

 

[atvspeed4]

Thanks for the pics, that helps explain better. The 1 ton boot rubbed the lower control arm right below the CV.

As for the diff, we cannot run a bearing retainer with the size constraints. Literally we had 1.25" of material on our housing from the carrier bearing out when we tried the GM 8.5" and the pinion was still against the oilpan. We were already down to the cover gasket surface and could not cut the housing shorter.

lol nothing is easy with these vehicles. I wish we could all go full custom suspension and drivetrain like yours!

 

[bebe]

There seems to be a little confusion/misinformation on the Toyota stuff so I thought I would clear it up.

86-95 IFS front = 7.5" ring gear pass side diff. Cast iron center section. Not a drop out third like the toy rear axles.

Everything newer than 95 (Tacoma/fj cruiser/3rd gen 4runner) is drivers side diff so it won't work for you guys.

One possible option if you want Toyota stuff would be to cut down a rear axle to the correct width and offset. You would get an 8" ring gear and a true dropout. The best axle to use would be from a 79-85 and it is also the cheapest, they can be had for around $100. It would be a lot of work but they hold up pretty well in the front of trucks that are close to the weight of your rigs, I think it would hold up fine to 37" tires and any terrain most sane people would drag an H3 through.

The front axle I have pictured above is a PS drop front - Yes? That's what Rick (speedy) ran in his 4runner. And what everyone else runs around here and it is a drop out. What am I missing?

 

[bebe]

Thanks for the pics, that helps explain better. The 1 ton boot rubbed the lower control arm right below the CV.

As for the diff, we cannot run a bearing retainer with the size constraints. Literally we had 1.25" of material on our housing from the carrier bearing out when we tried the GM 8.5" and the pinion was still against the oilpan. We were already down to the cover gasket surface and could not cut the housing shorter.

lol nothing is easy with these vehicles. I wish we could all go full custom suspension and drivetrain like yours!

Can you clearance the LCA a bit? There is a ton of material there.

Take a good look at the Ruff stuff 8" toy housing and the Trail gear housing. I think they are short enough you could use the retainer. If you'd like I can call both and to get the bare housing measurements for you.

 

[am4x4]

The front axle I have pictured above is a PS drop front - Yes? That's what Rick (speedy) ran in his 4runner. And what everyone else runs around here and it is a drop out. What am I missing?

I was talking about factory IFS diffs. You could build a narrow IFS housing out of a solid front axle but the rear is easier because it already has the bearing retainers and they are usually cheaper.

The Toyota solid front axles are drop out like all Toyota rear axles.

 

[bebe]

Never mind LOL I get it now.

 

[bebe]

This is what I was referring to in regards to the retainer:




This is the old and new side by side

 

[am4x4]

I think the cut down toy rear would allow you to get the diff further over to the pass side which I imagine would be a big issue for a stock height rig

 

[06 H3]

Thanks for the pics, that helps explain better. The 1 ton boot rubbed the lower control arm right below the CV.

Can you clearance the LCA a bit? There is a ton of material there.

If you are uncomfortable trimming down the LCA that you run on your rig lmk. There was a reason that I threw all those stock parts in a storage unit. I got them for good deals and they are all oem so when the time would come to start doing IFS work like this they would come in handy. Finally the time has come!

I can replicate the entire setup if you really want to use a 1 ton CV, which I think is worth it for the extra strength, especially if your running a front locker. Anyways I have 2 upper control arms, 3 lowers from bebe and the extra lower arm from Zach 2 oem knuckles from the rancho lift and 2 hubs I got from 4speedfunk. Instead of grinding down your LCA, I can buy a 1 ton CV or if someone has some old H2 one thats blown or something I could use that and grind away at the LCA. Then we can determine if the amount that needs to be grinded off is ok in terms of strength.

I know its costly but I think going with the IFS pumpkins from the fab shops are the way to go. I may start doing some work on this from my end due to the fact that I have more options with the added oilpan clearance the rancho lift provides. At this point I have been torn between a SA conversion and sticking with IFS but seeing we will have beefy tie rods available in the future and a steering rack clamp that keeps that SOB in place all we have now is the diff. I wanna keep the IFS so I will continue to hold off.

If you guys need any help let me know. I can do the mock setup on the 1 ton CV and some other stuff but lack the machining and I can do mock ups with my welds, if all goes well then I would bring it down to am4x4, that guy can lay down some nice beads.

Whats scary is we are having issues with all this but it may get more complicated with the cycling the suspension, axle plunge and if things hit into each other, etc. I wont even get started on my ideas with stock suspension modifications if we can fit a diff in there. One step at a time...Ill keep telling myself that.

 

[atvspeed4]

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/85789-H3-Long-Travel-Build/page2

Post #12 Bebe you came to the same conclusion about the outer cv binding on the lower control arm. Looks like we will have to stick to 1500 cvs. They are still bigger then the stock H3

 

[bebe]

Did you look at clearancing the lower a-arm? We were going custom anyway, so we never even bothered to look at it. As I said before, there looks to be plenty of material there.

What part of the 1500 shaft is bigger than the H3 shaft? So you have a side by side comparison pic? I've never compared them, but they seem pretty similar to me.

 

[atvspeed4]

West Coast Diff, (Sierra R&P) makes 5:29's for the 10 bolt, and the 44. IIRC.

I checked out there catalog and could not find any 5.29 gears for the 10 bolt. Any ideas on a lead? Just wondering if the toyota diff is even an option if we cannot run 5.29 gears in the rear?

 

[atvspeed4]

Bump? Any ideas?

 

[Schwarttzy]

Bump? Any ideas?

I've been talking with some companies to make a custom differential, but it's slow moving.

 

[atvspeed4]

I've been talking with some companies to make a custom differential, but it's slow moving.

Oh no, we are 95% sure we have that part figured out now. Taking a whole lot more machining then we had planned. Only issue is where to find 5.29 gears for our rear ten bolt.

 

[Schwarttzy]

Oh no, we are 95% sure we have that part figured out now. Taking a whole lot more machining then we had planned. Only issue is where to find 5.29 gears for our rear ten bolt.

O so this might actually still work!

 

[atvspeed4]

O so this might actually still work!

lol yes hopefully but still at a loss about where to get 5.29 gears for the rear.

 

[06 H3]

Bebe? She could talk to west coast differential...what other options do we have for gearing that match? 4.88?