20x12 No Lift/Level?

[arcwcb]

I have a 2007 H3, base model, and I'm wanting to run a 20x12 -44 on a 33, but I don't have a level kit on the vehicle yet. That wheel width and offset don't seem to be popular on H3s, I've found one 20x12 and one 22x12 on 33s with a -44, but both had level kits. Has anybody run a wheel that width and offset without a level? Any rubbing or major issues? Thanks!

 

[CaddyStrophic]

I'd say prepare to rub and replace hub bearings every 10,000 miles.

Also, you don't need a leveling kit, just adjust your torsion bars.

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[SedonaBound]

I'm not sure about my rim width being 12, but I have wide 305-50R20s (Toyo AT2), basically 33"x20 tires, on my H3T and LOVE them. When I bought my truck, it had the 20s and I planned to swap them for 35s on an 16 in rims like on my 06 H3 when I got home. But after the 600 mile trip home on the interstate, I was totally sold on the uberwide tires with a narrower sidewall. It was a huge improvement from the high speed mushy wallowing of AT tires with big sidewalls. I'll take the rock steady stability at speeds 75 over the squishy big tire look that feels like "handling by Beautyrest". It may not the best tire for serious rock crawling, but for general driving where I do 99+% of the H3T's miles, the 305s are superb and the Toyo's stiff sidewalls still give me plenty of protection on the trails and FS roads here in N AZ.

Leveling gains you little; some room for over-sized tires, but robs torque and increases the likelihood for front axle problems. The suspension was designed for the nose down. CV failures seem a lot more common on "leveled" trucks.

 

[awalsh]

I'm not sure about my rim width being 12, but I have wide 305-50R20s (Toyo AT2), basically 33" tires, on my H3T and LOVE them. When I bought my truck, it had the 20s and I planned to swap them for 35s on an 16 in rims like on my 06 H3 when I got home. But after the 600 mile trip home on the interstate, I was totally sold on the uberwide tires with a narrower sidewall. It was a huge improvement from the high speed mushy wallowing of AT tires with big sidewalls. I'll take the rock steady stability at speeds 75 over the squishy big tire look that feels like "handling by Beautyrest". It may not the best tire for serious rock crawling, but for general driving where I do 99+% of the H3T's miles, the 305s are superb and the Toyo's stiff sidewalls still give me plenty of protection on the trails and FS roads here in N AZ.

couldn't agree any more.. when I was running 20x8.5s on 305/50r20 with 2" spacers I loved the stability
now that I am back to oem 16"s on 33s that is the only downfall I have found but I'm not complaining

 

[arcwcb]

I'd say prepare to rub and replace hub bearings every 10,000 miles.

Also, you don't need a leveling kit, just adjust your torsion bars.

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Every 10k miles? I see a lot of trucks running 20x12's with a -44, does everybody have wheel bearing issues or is that just a common weak point on an H3? Sorry if that's a noob question, first 4x4 for me, I'm used to lowering and running a low-pro on a big wheel lol.

Would stepping down to a 20x10 make that much of a difference?

 

[JJT]

"Level Kit" :giggle:

What CaddyStrophic said, Crank your T bars!

 

[CaddyStrophic]

Every 10k miles? I see a lot of trucks running 20x12's with a -44, does everybody have wheel bearing issues or is that just a common weak point on an H3? Sorry if that's a noob question, first 4x4 for me, I'm used to lowering and running a low-pro on a big wheel lol.

Would stepping down to a 20x10 make that much of a difference?

I went from a Bagged Caddy on 22s to a Hummer, so I'm with ya, haha.

I just say 10k because my buddy has a relative with a lifted Chevy on -44 rims and he has to swap a bearing out every 7-12k.


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[arcwcb]

I went from a Bagged Caddy on 22s to a Hummer, so I'm with ya, haha.

I just say 10k because my buddy has a relative with a lifted Chevy on -44 rims and he has to swap a bearing out every 7-12k.


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wow, that's crazy (and expensive). I may go 20x10 with a little less offset, I just loved the look of a big lip. Thanks for the heads up!

also, how'd you like running bags? I dropped my Mustang 1.5-1.75" but it's static. For my Tundra I'm looking to go bags on 26s.

 

[arcwcb]

"Level Kit" :giggle:

What CaddyStrophic said, Crank your T bars!

Lol I was just going off kits I'd seen online, but they seem unnecessary now that I read around some more. When cranking the torsion bar, any other issues arise outside of needing an alignment?

 

[JJT]

Lol I was just going off kits I'd seen online, but they seem unnecessary now that I read around some more. When cranking the torsion bar, any other issues arise outside of needing an alignment?

Mine have been cranked for more than a couple years W/ 35's, and I haven't had an issue yet....

 

[arcwcb]

Thanks for the advice on the negative offset. I definitely didn't want to be going through wheel bearings faster than oil changes, so I ended up ordering the same wheel in a 20x10 -19, so it should put a lot less wear and tear on the hub while still having an aggressive look.

Here's a picture of the wheel I ordered, they will be on a 33x12.50 M/T. I'll post pics once they arrive and I get the T-bars cranked.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

I ordered these in 18x10 with 4.5" backspacing with 35x12.5x18 Pitbull Rocker XOR LT Radials. I purchased my 2007 H3 with just over 40k miles and put 33" Irok Tires on the next day. At 55k miles I put on Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TTC 35" tires. Now that I am at 70k miles I have replaced the entire front end. I noticed the fastest wear when I went to 35" tires. When you start pushing that kind of rubber around (huge weight increase) things wear out. I simply tell you this so you are prepared and make a sound decision. Knowing this I still ordered one of the heaviest tires I have heard of in a 35". Factory stock I was 84 lbs each wheel and tire. This new setup is 124 lbs each. That is a substantial increase.

 

[arcwcb]

Good to know, it's the I5 so I just did 33's. I'll keep that in mind if I ever look at 35's though.

 

[GreatDaneHummer]

Speaking of wheel bearings... replaced both sides yesterday, so not 10k miles more like 20k miles haha!

 

[H322]

I am running 22x14s -44 offset on 35/14.50/22 super swamper iroks. With my t bars cranked to 23.5". Haven't had any issues with bearings but my time is coming when it does I'll install new bearings ball joints and keep going. 20x10s are defiantly less offset so yes less stress. I say go for the 20x12s but unlike most Iam a big fan of the wide stance look. To each his own


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[CaddyStrophic]

I am running 22x14s -44 offset on 35/14.50/22 super swamper iroks. With my t bars cranked to 23.5". Haven't had any issues with bearings but my time is coming when it does I'll install new bearings ball joints and keep going. 20x10s are defiantly less offset so yes less stress. I say go for the 20x12s but unlike most Iam a big fan of the wide stance look. To each his own


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Form vs. Function to some folks. As someone that likes show vehicles and purpose built off-road rigs, I say build whatever the hell you want! (Although I like to take jabs at the 30"+ rim crowd.)

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