H3 4x control buttons

[med]

I've found that my control buttons are sticking. I can't get my 4hlock to engage and when getting out of 4low I have to press really hard. I've read where they stick and need to be cleaned but was wondering what the process is? I just don't want to screw something up. Any advice appreciated. Med

2006 h3 adv


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[f5moab]

Photos are gone, but this thead tell you how....
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?87-Serv-4wd&highlight=switch

 

[f5moab]

Here is the procedure with basically the correct photos....
To remover the switch array:
1. Pull the top part of the center (silver) trim panel away from the instrument panel. You can use a plastic trim tool, but since most do not have one, try a plastic spoon from Mickey Ds or Burger Thing. Sometimes, just pulling at the top with your fingers is all that is needed. THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE PANEL.

2. Pull back carefully on the top of the center trim panel to access the following connectors:
a. Emergency flasher
b. Transfer case control module switches. This connector has a little bar that must be remove out of the way to unlock the connector to the switch array.

3. Using a short screwdriver or a 90 degree screw driver, remove the screws retaining the switch array to the back of the trim panel, and remove the switch array.
Now comes the fun part….
This is how dirty the switch array can get, in just a few months of off-roading in dusty areas. That is basically good old Utah red dust, and it is stuck to the switch array. Blowing will help to remove some of that dirty, but not all.

Here you can see how the buttons will stick in when pushed.

​

Disassemble the switches
1. Remove the six screws from the back of the array.
2. Remove the back plate and the circuit board.

3. Take the housing with the switches and place them in some water and allow them to soak clean, or run water over the buttons, making sure the gaps between the buttons and the housing get cleaned. (WITH THE CIRCUIT BOARD REMOVED, CLEANING THE BUTTONS IN WATER IS OK.)
4. Allow the buttons and housing to dry.
5. Once the buttons and housing are dry (make sure they are dry), install the circuit board, back cover and the six screws.
6. Install back onto the trim panel. MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE CONNECTOR LOCK ON THE SWITCHES.
7. Install the hazard switch connector.
8. Push the trim panel back into the instrument panel.
You should be good to go now, until the next time the switches start to stick.

 

[med]

Awesome. Sure appreciate it man


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[giovannihdzretir]

Awesome

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[4speedfunk]

Or just spray the array with aerosol silicone lubricant. I use a brand called "Wire Drier" that is commonly used for spark plug boots, cap & rotors, and electronic connectors. It's penetrating and lubricating like WD-40 but it has the moisture chasing properties of silicone. It's safe for plastic and electrics.
This same product works great for detailing the motor too. After you steam clean the engine bay, simply spray this stuff all over the motor. It will chase the water out of all the tight spots and also leave it looking spotless. As a side bonus, it will leave a slick coating so future romps thru the mud will hose off easier.


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[f5moab]

Any spray, with a lubricant, I tried (including a dry lube) only attracted more dirt between the buttons and the case. Might be good in some areas, but sure was not good in a sand/dust covered area like Moab. But always worth a try.

I might try it on my snowblower wheel that keeps freezing up. WD-40 is doing nothing and it is "supposed" to be a moisture remover.

 

[Kyle]

you could also try spraying in some dielectric grease to free everything up. Ive done that on some buttons and its good.

 

[med]

Any possible way to remove a button from the housing? I soaked in hot water, held it in the stream of hot water and even hit it with some high pressure from a water hose. It still doesn't move freely. Gonna run to town in a bit to see if I can find a lubricant to shoot on it to see if that makes a difference.


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[med]

Got some contact cleaner and sprayed it good and then applied a dry lube. The button half ass comes back out... kinda sticks. But the 4h won't engage with the button at all. 4l lock engages like a charm. Thoughts? Guess I'll pull it all apart another day and hook it up without the front cover and make sure the circuit board is not malfunctioning or just buy another switch.


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[Bigunit]

Post up a pic of your control panel buttons. I may have a new panel for you if it matches what the one you have. I bought one but it was for a non-front/rear locker H3 and can't use it.

 

[med]

Man I just ordered one on eBay..lol. I have the rear locker but not the front.


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[med]

New switch did the trick


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