ARB bumper front sag

[nj3talpha]

After installing the ARB bumper on the 3T I have been having some sagging issues. When i make turns I got some tire rubbing(32 inch tires). I really don't want to crank the t-bar, I like the racked look. I was thinking of installing ADV shocks since I hear they're firmer then LUX shocks. Any other suggestions would be great!

 

[06 H3]

the shocks wont do much IMO.

****...I was in the process of writing get alpha Torsion bars as it will help with the load but you have an alpha. If you could find a higher rate torsion bar that will help. Sway a way had them but not anymore.

 

[alrock]

You can at least turn the torsion bars to address the new sag - you don't have to lift it beyond that. Shocks won't fix the sag.

 

[is350]

i agree u can turn the t bars, and raise the front end just till u get back to the stock height

 

[Chook]

After installing the ARB bumper on the 3T I have been having some sagging issues. When i make turns I got some tire rubbing(32 inch tires). I really don't want to crank the t-bar, I like the racked look. I was thinking of installing ADV shocks since I hear they're firmer then LUX shocks. Any other suggestions would be great!

ARB says if you experience sag after installing their bull bar you need uprated torsion bars. They say that the bar alone is fine but if you have winch/lights etc. you def need the uprated TBar (from memory it is about 25% stiffer). Agree with the others also that shocks won't make a difference.

 

[nj3talpha]

ARB says if you experience sag after installing their bull bar you need uprated torsion bars. They say that the bar alone is fine but if you have winch/lights etc. you def need the uprated TBar (from memory it is about 25% stiffer). Agree with the others also that shocks won't make a difference.

Thanks for the info. However I do not have a winch or lights(yet). Any recommendations on the torsion bars?

 

[davidh3]

:corn:ARB bumper looks very heavy.
Just crank the T-bar,

Measure the height carefully, uneven level will cause problems that I had before(front end vibration). after cranking the T bar, go get front end alignment.

 

[06 H3]

I think rocky road sells a higher rate torsion bar...I know you don't wanna crank the t bar but you can temporarily if the sagging really bugs you.

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[08SolarFlareH3]

Like everyone else said, just adjust the t-bar back to stock height. If your really want to go the route of getting new torsion bars, you don’t have a ton of options seeing you already have an Alpha. Old Man Emu by ARB or a possibly finding a used set of Sway A Way.

 

[Chook]

Thanks for the info. However I do not have a winch or lights(yet). Any recommendations on the torsion bars?

I would NOT recommend the ARB one (Old Man Emu). The ARB bar & T Bar were designed & tested in Australia but only on a regular I5 H3 Wagon. (Australia never got the Alpha or the H3T). With the extra weight up front of the Alpha as well as the ARB bar, you will need a Sway Away or other uprated Tbar designed for an Alpha.

 

[backcountryislife]

FYI, just a way to think about clocking your existing torsion bars to return to stock settings with the new weight...

If you ride dirtbikes, sleds, mtn bikes... anything with an adjustable coil-over suspension:

Clocking up the existing bars is almost the exact same thing as moving the coil adjustment nut a few turns because you've got a heavier rider. The preload (suspension setting for different weight) will change because you're "compressing" the shock a bit (turning it into the load) and the spring rate will change for the same reason. By clocking the spring more, you'll have a stiffer rate at the beginning of the stroke, and at the end of the stroke... Now of course, some times adding preload still doesn't give us the characteristics we were looking for (too stiff a start with an overly linear stroke, minimal bottom out protection...) but in this particular instance, I bet it would be worth a try.

I've just found that because of the abnormal nature of a torsion spring, that many people don't think of them in the same way as a coil, so it's good to draw a few parallels so that they make a bit more sense.

I'd try that first before spending the $$ on new springs.

 

[SolidusJ]

the shocks wont do much IMO.

****...I was in the process of writing get alpha Torsion bars as it will help with the load but you have an alpha. If you could find a higher rate torsion bar that will help. Sway a way had them but not anymore.

How much of an improvement would it be to have the Alpha T-bars on the I5?

 

[06 H3]

How much of an improvement would it be to have the Alpha T-bars on the I5?

I don't have any personal review on it as I am running stock but from what i heard it helps offroad. I really want sway a way but Idk if I can find them.

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[backcountryislife]

How would stiffer springs help offroad? If you can get the spring preloaded to the point where the sag (ride height) is set where you want it, then I can't think of how stiffer would be better offroad.

 

[06 H3]

Well I believe a pro to the stiffness is coming off ledges. You wont bounce off of them.

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[Steve #1]

I've just found that because of the abnormal nature of a torsion spring, that many people don't think of them in the same way as a coil, so it's good to draw a few parallels so that they make a bit more sense.

But, like most torsion springs, the torsion bars on the H3 are not progressive. The progressive ride comes from the progressive dampener (comonly refered to here as the bump stop). Reindexing would do the same as adjusting them.

 

[erdlen65]

If you like the factory slant you could always crank the t bars then put extended shackles in the rear to retain that factory look but higher. I don't have an arb or extended shackles so just throwing in my .02

 

[backcountryislife]

But, like most torsion springs, the torsion bars on the H3 are not progressive. The progressive ride comes from the progressive dampener (comonly refered to here as the bump stop). Reindexing would do the same as adjusting them.

I'll give you that torsion bars are LESS progressive... but any spring will have more tendency to return toward the end of the stroke than the beginning. Being that the spring is so long compared to the length of the travel, they're very linear in comparison to a coil... but there is always going to be some progression, that's the nature of a spring. Not sure what you mean about re-indexing doing the same as adjusting them... that's the same thing. The idea would be to index or adjust them back to a point where they're back to stock height, then the damper can do what it did before.

I wonder if some of the folks looking for stiffer wouldn't be just as well served for a hell of a lot less money by getting a stiffer damper instead? Since it's such an integral part of how this system works, perhaps that would give what they're looking for.

 

[Chook]

I really want sway a way but Idk if I can find them.

Well I did an internet search & found one for you at the link below but given that they say all H3 from 2005 on I doubt it is uprated for the Alpha or the T either (must be designed for the I5 Wagon like the ARB Old Man Emu one) http://mudflaps.com/i-14354167-sway-a-way-1766-hummer-h3-2005-current-2-boxes-equal-1-unit.html

 

[Best4x4]

I have an Alpha with an ARB, and a Warn M8000 and when I got it the torsion bars were adjusted WAY to high and the rear had 2.5 lift shackles on it. I installed 3/4 lift rear shackles, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Traild Duty 1/2 longer bumpstops, and I lowered the front torsion bars. On my rig I had to do 2 full turns on the left, and 5 turns on the right. I tried to do it evenly, but I think the previous owner didn't lol. I now sit at23 1/4 in the front with a slight rake towards the front and I think going to 23 1/2 would fix that, but I am happy with my CV axle angles, and I can actually turn in/out of a parking space now.