Best way/ place to get cast iron diff/ or just cases?

[backcountryislife]

Reaper has another aluminum diff I can pick up, but wondering if there's a simple way to get the CI cases & swap over? or maybe there's a reasonable place to get the whole thing?

sounds like I lost a ring gear, and I'm not much for replacing with the same thing instead of upgrading, so looking to see what I could do.

 

[Bigunit]

Zach might be able to find you one - might as well get one with the factory eaton locker. Shoot him a PM & see if he can help.

 

[bebe]

Jay at West Coast Differential has the hook-up for both. Not OEM prices.

 

[06 H3]

Zach told me to call him when I was ready for mine...I would talk to him

 

[backcountryislife]

Zach might be able to find you one - might as well get one with the factory eaton locker. Shoot him a PM & see if he can help.

The E locker would put it way out of my price range. honestly, all I need are cases.

 

[backcountryislife]

Looks like the case/ carrier is only $335 at gmpartsdirect... that seems rather low to me.


#7

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/catalog/frameset.cfm

So, could I just swap the internals of the good diff that reaper has, and put them in this case?

Any holes in that plan??? Would the cover be any different? I didn't cross reference to see what was different & what wasn't.

Btw, this is from a 2010 alpha, I THOUGHT that one had the CI diff... am I right on that?

 

[bebe]

Nope - you always need new bearing and seals - it's called a set up kit.

Check with GMPD on actual shipping time and costs first before you commit.

 

[bebe]

PS the cases that have been removed (aluminum) because a R&P has exploded in it, are usually not worth using. The internals may be ok and they are identical. The parts will have different numbers, but they are the same.

 

[backcountryislife]

The alum diff I'd be getting is clean. (wouldn't be using the case anyhow) It was pulled to put a CI diff w/ e-locker in it. Otherwise I'd just put a new ring gear in mine swap the case.

I assumed that I should do seasl while in there, but hadn't thought about bearings, why would you need new ones if they're good? Guaranteed damage pulling them?

 

[jakesz28]

with the right tools you can reuse the bearings. Just press them off the old pinion and and put them on the new one. But it is just so easy to start with new ones and they are fairly cheap. Your going to need a crush sleeve and seals any ways.

 

[backcountryislife]

I don't think they'd be coming off the pinion if I didn't need them to...


I'm probably not explaining this well.

I'd have a 100% good aluminum diff. I'd just be swapping the innerds of the good aluminum diff, to a new cast iron diff housing/ carrier, that's all. I figured that any seals would be a good idea, just because this case has sat for a bit, but hadn't thought about doing anything else. If bearings are needed... I'll do them, if not I'd prefer to not spend more than needed.


I'd then take the good housing I'd have, and buy the parts to make that a good spare. (eventually, not right away)

Looks like the full diff with locker is $1700ish, and I'd have a few hundred into this doing what I'm planning. If I could get the CI diff for what reaper paid for his ($800something) I'd be all for getting one, but I doubt that's going to happen.

 

[atvspeed4]

You cant just "swap internals" ever housing is slightly different and needs to be set up. Even two aluminum housings cannot be just have the internal swapped.

 

[backcountryislife]

Ok, so you're just talking about shimming? What else would need to change?


I'm not going to do it, I'd have the guy who works on my Cummins do it. He's a good mech, and a good friend.... I'd assume/ hope he knows what is needed to set up a diff properly. I don't have a clue.

btw, called west coast diff, they're higher than anyone else I could find for the housing, and that was for one they've had sitting around for quite a while. ($425 for the housing, most places are 350-370) neither of us knew what part number to look for, for a full diff with or without locker.

 

[backcountryislife]

Anybody got a contact # for Zach? If I could get a passable deal on a diff or even just the case, I'd prefer to get it from someone on here.

 

[Bigunit]

I do. I will PM it to you.

 

[4speedfunk]

The cheapest fix is to install a complete used axle from a totalled H3. Choices are:

Cast iron or Aluminum
E-locker or Open
4.10 or 4.56

Prices typically run $400 to $800. You can bypass crush sleeves, install kits, bearings, and set-up. Just bolt it in and fill it with gear lube. I wouldn't get crazy trying to upgrade or rebuild one. Chances are...if you blew one...you'll probably blow another one.

 

[backcountryislife]

And what do you think the odds are of me finding a 4.56 CI diff in the next week used?

I broke one that was aluminum, I won't put another aluminum one in again unless I HAVE to, but odds are if I find one it'll be one with 4.10 gears & I'll have to swap gears anyhow. I'd sure prefer to find a used CI F diff with a locker, but I've got no idea where to look for one. I called west coast, thinking they'd be helpful, Jay didn't even know what to look for.

I look for used parts on Ebay, hoping to find an H3 I could get parts off... but they're all NR4 (base) units.

If there's a better way to do what you're suggesting, I'd love to know, but so far I don't see it.


Right now, I've got a diff for super cheap, and a case for $350, then some setup & seals.... to ME it looks like a good way to go, but I don't feel like I've got any options.

 

[bebe]

I called west coast, thinking they'd be helpful, Jay didn't even know what to look for.

I guess it depends on what your asked for - but I'll call him. Has to be a communication error.

 

[bebe]

The cheapest fix is to install a complete used axle from a totalled H3. Choices are:

Cast iron or Aluminum
E-locker or Open
4.10 or 4.56

Prices typically run $400 to $800. You can bypass crush sleeves, install kits, bearings, and set-up. Just bolt it in and fill it with gear lube. I wouldn't get crazy trying to upgrade or rebuild one. Chances are...if you blew one...you'll probably blow another one.

Have you rebuilt one?

 

[backcountryislife]

I guess it depends on what your asked for - but I'll call him. Has to be a communication error.

He asked me for parts numbers, I didn't know any. He had one part that he said he had sitting there, which by the number was a carrier/case for that 425.

I'm not useful enough to actually have any part #'s for him!! I looked on gmpartsdirect, but don't see any numbers on there.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[bebe]

He asked me for parts numbers, I didn't know any. He had one part that he said he had sitting there, which by the number was a carrier/case for that 425.

I'm not useful enough to actually have any part #'s for him!! I looked on gmpartsdirect, but don't see any numbers on there.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

I'll get part numbers - do you know what you need?

Have you taken the diff cover off to see what it looks like in there?

 

[bebe]

25958434	front diff kit with E-locker (carrier only)
20801812	front diff ring and pinion 4.56 gear

 

[backcountryislife]

Haven't opened it yet.

So the first one is whole diff... or carrier only?
The carrier I was looking at was the one without the locker. Not sure why it's different with or without?



Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[Zach]

The first part number is carrier only. Sent you a pm on the aasemblies

 

[backcountryislife]

Thanks Zach!

I'm confused though... it is or isn't a big deal doing what I wanted to do? If it's something that's super technical I don't need to chance messing up another diff, but if it's pretty basic I'd sure rather go iron over aluminum.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk