Best way/ place to get cast iron diff/ or just cases?

[deserth3]

25958434	front diff kit with E-locker (carrier only)
20801812	front diff ring and pinion 4.56 gear

This is a number I saved awhile back from one of these discusions. It was supposed to be a front diff with locker or the adventure I-5. I never went any further with it. But saved the number.

GM PART # 25892846
CATEGORY: Differential Carrier
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $1,866.97
OUR PRICE: $1,359.16

 

[backcountryislife]

25831502 I think is the part number I'm looking for. That's the one Jay was $425 on.

Carrier for diff without locker. IF I take Reaper's alum. diff & swap cases, that's what I need. That was the plan, but then I'm being told that's a bad idea... so I'm not sure what to look for now.

I'm not going to be buying a locker unless I find a used diff with one or find the whole assembly ridiculously cheap...

 

[4speedfunk]

Have you rebuilt one?

Nope. Parts were too expensive. Break & Replace...repeat as necessary.

 

[backcountryislife]

Nope. Parts were too expensive. Break & Replace...repeat as necessary.

but if you're not paying for the parts... what would keep you from doing what I'm wanting to do?


Just trying to understand the WHY behind this being a bad idea.

 

[backcountryislife]

Just talked to Zach...


Got T-case & diff all figured out! Thanks for the heads up to give him a yell!

So... the rack I'll do as hunner suggests, and see how long that holds up to my elephant style stomping on the gas, the diff I'm getting case & associated rebuild parts from Zach, and getting a 4:1 also from Zach. Pretty stoked to have a T-case with a warranty, I think that's a good part to have some kind of backing on. For the price he gave me, I can't justify getting some reman or used unit off Ebay.

OK, time to whip out the credit card... I hate this part.

 

[reaper]

Pretty stoked to have a T-case with a warranty

Hey Zach-- I could use one of those!!! Sent an email, let's chat!

 

[backcountryislife]

Hey Zach-- I could use one of those!!! Sent an email, let's chat!

WHAT? I thought yours was just some rebuilding? What happened?

 

[MaxPF]

When you have a thread asking about cast iron diffs and another about rack & pinion issues, it leads me to believe there's a SAS in your future :giggle:

 

[backcountryislife]

When you have a thread asking about cast iron diffs and another about rack & pinion issues, it leads me to believe there's a SAS in your future :giggle:

HAHA!


Not a CHANCE!!!:wink:


If there's a Solid axle in my future... it'll have the word "rubicon" on the hood

I'm a bolt on only boy :thumbs:

 

[4speedfunk]

Just trying to understand the WHY behind this being a bad idea.

Keep wheeling with "elephant style stomping on the gas"...you'll understand eventually.

 

[backcountryislife]

Keep wheeling with "elephant style stomping on the gas"...you'll understand eventually.

Are you specifically avoiding my question, just so you can continue to insult & shoot down rather than help?



The elephant thing was a joke, hell, I'm freaked out about even spinning my wheels because of what folks have mentioned on here.

It amazes me that you try to ask a simple question & everyone wants to shoot it down... but not a SINGLE person will take a minute to explain why.


Either way, it's done. I'm getting the Diff, and putting the parts into the new case.

My mechanic laughed at the idea of spending $1300+ instead of $350 because swapping the parts "isn't that simple" Zach didn't find any reason not to do it either, he was really helpful.

SO... about $450 into it & I'll have a CI diff without a locker. What I was looking for.


I don't know what the culture difference is here that makes it so hard to get what seems to me simple answers... but it's really amazing to me how people act on this forum. It's all about proving how much more you know without actually being helpful in the process. THAT is no simple task, let me tell you. I'm pretty dam high on the food chain in the sports I do in general & I spend a lot of time helping other people. It's pretty easy really. I take what I know, and I attempt to help people do what they need to do, rather than proving how my way is better than theirs.


Btw, I asked this question on CHO... and had a helpful, realistic answer in the 5th reply. Not telling me how dumb I am, or how it won't work, or how I should do it their way, but helping me figure out a way to do the job I'm trying to do.

Now I need to figure out what I actually do have to buy to do the rebuild/ swap, but I'll ask over there so that I get a little less BS & someone who's actually willing to help someone who needs it.

To those who were actually trying to help, thank you! I appreciate it, and my frustration is limited to a certain few on here who are clearly above me.

 

[4speedfunk]

The smiley face means its supposed to be funny. Jeez.

 

[backcountryislife]

but yet again... I asked a simple question, "why" to something you say I shouldn't do... but you won't back it up with any information as to why, much less, "here's how you CAN make it work".

Do you not see how frustrating that is for someone who perhaps is missing information & wanting to understand more?


I deal with this stuff ALL the time, you ask me about the difference in the diamond drive(transmission) from a 2007 to a 2009 M1000 and if someone can put the primary gearset from one into the other because you've got a good 2009 case & good 2007 gears ... I'll tell you no, it won't work. (this is where you stopped)

THEN I'll follow up with WHY it won't work (the revers gearset that was in a 2007 was mechanical reverse, done by a servo whereas 2009 is motor reverse... the servo based reverse drive had a deeper case & longer output shaft, engine reverse eliminated the need for the extra set of gears, shift fork, and servo), explain where to get the gears for the 2009 case, explain the differences in the case, and the person has gained knowledge, knows why it won't work, and then knows how to move forward to get what he was looking for. He also knows that the information given was deeper than "go buy a new one from my buddy", because I gave him some solid knowledge that he can use when he needs to work on them in the future. Oh btw... I'd change out that Peer 6203 single row bearing while you're in there... the failure rate on them is about 30% over a few thousand miles... so might as well replace it with a 5203 double row.


Now, I know you're not concerned with how the ACT drive works on an arctic cat snowmobile... but I AM concerned about how the front diff works on a 2007 to 2009 Hummer H3... but you, knowing what you know, seem to enjoy telling me what can't be done, rather than helping me figure out HOW it can be done.


Now you know more than you did yesterday about the ACT drive on a cat. They stopped installing them in 2012... so it's pretty much useless information to you... sorry about that.:thumbs:

 

[jakesz28]

Backcountry, I see no problem with what your doing. Shims, new crush sleeve and seals is all you need used gears used bearings no problem. Just keep the races and bearings as a matched set. I have set up a few rear ends used lockers and spools, used used stuff with out problems. If the guy doing your work is experienced skip the crush sleeve make a solid spacer and shim it to get the right preload.
The solid sleeve and shims with the cast iron housing may stop the pinion from moving away from the ring gear. If so you only have to worry about the spider gears and axles.


When people say it can't be done. Or it hasn't been done. Blah blah blah. My stock block LT1 camaro runs high 8's in the quarter on the rearend and powerglide I built. So I may be new to H3's but I have been around the block.

Best of luck and keep wheeling.

 

[bebe]

All you have to do is look at the posted drawing to see there is no crush sleeve. But if you do find it - let me know

Crush Sleeve

 

[bebe]

You can take the guts from the aluminum and swap them to the cast iron. Sorry I haven't responded sooner, I was busy launching a lawsuit, and in meetings all day today.

There really is nothing different - and the reason I asked if you had pulled it apart? Is because when you open it up ONLY then will you be able to asses the damage - ****, we haven't even confirmed it's the diff!!!

If you lost teeth and drove it after - all those metal bits can completely destroy bearings, races, shims, even the case. It can be completely destroyed or you could luck out and only need to replace the normal set up stuff.

Max - help me out here.

So open it up FIRST before you charge the card, you could be adding more to it or less.

 

[bebe]

And Kaleb - I'm not trying to be a smart ass - I was born that way {{hugs}}

 

[jakesz28]

Bebe, how many rear ends or dif's have you personally set up? I don't care what GM or AAM call it but how do you set the preload of the pinion gear without a crush sleeve or solid spacers and shims?

I did very little searching on the parts for this. But here you go. http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/8971/Crush-sleeve-eliminator-kit-for-GM-7-5-8-2.aspx

 

[backcountryislife]

Sorry I haven't responded sooner, I was busy launching a lawsuit, and in meetings all day today.

And thank you for that!!! My friends on FB might be giving you a hard time... but whatever "reason" you're using, I'm just glad someone's fighting the BS that the forest circus keeps pulling. They're doing the same BS here.

 

[backcountryislife]

There really is nothing different - and the reason I asked if you had pulled it apart? Is because when you open it up ONLY then will you be able to asses the damage - ****, we haven't even confirmed it's the diff!!!

If you lost teeth and drove it after - all those metal bits can completely destroy bearings, races, shims, even the case. It can be completely destroyed or you could luck out and only need to replace the normal set up stuff.

I got to spend more time with it yesterday, it's the diff. Once I got further under it instead of looking in from the side, you can feel it hitching in the yoke.


I'm not using ANYTHING from the bad diff... not a single part. This will be from one good diff to a brand new case. It's thumping pretty good now, I drove it down to a meeting down the road (3/4 mi from the house) this AM, I wouldn't expect that there's much that's happy inside there. If there is, I'll rebuild it & keep it as a spare in case I or Reaper ever need one again. If not, nothing lost from the current game plan.

My guy seems plenty confident, but he's also humble enough to read the service manual before a project, so I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with the results.

 

[bebe]

Bebe, how many rear ends or dif's have you personally set up? I don't care what GM or AAM call it but how do you set the preload of the pinion gear without a crush sleeve or solid spacers and shims?

I did very little searching on the parts for this. But here you go. http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/8971/Crush-sleeve-eliminator-kit-for-GM-7-5-8-2.aspx

We are talking about FRONTS aka AAM760....and that would be 3. Did you look at the blow out, and the rear in my rigs has been set up 3 times (AKA AAM860) too ...there is no crush sleeve in that either.

HUGE difference between crush sleeves and shims.

Pre-load is set entirely differently with a crush sleeve than shims and spacers.

PS I'm making a Happy Bunny Just For YOU :gaah:

 

[bebe]

I got to spend more time with it yesterday, it's the diff. Once I got further under it instead of looking in from the side, you can feel it hitching in the yoke.


I'm not using ANYTHING from the bad diff... not a single part. This will be from one good diff to a brand new case. It's thumping pretty good now, I drove it down to a meeting down the road (3/4 mi from the house) this AM, I wouldn't expect that there's much that's happy inside there. If there is, I'll rebuild it & keep it as a spare in case I or Reaper ever need one again. If not, nothing lost from the current game plan.

My guy seems plenty confident, but he's also humble enough to read the service manual before a project, so I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with the results.

That's good to hear - I have a thread somewhere either on here - maybe not....where we took the diff apart and drove it for over 3k miles in 2WD before I started my project.

Call me tomorrow and I'll walk you through it. Super easy to do - no special tools required.

 

[backcountryislife]

Call me tomorrow and I'll walk you through it.

Even if my buddies pick on you about your "emotions" ???:giggle:


I'll give a yell once we get the diff in hand, I do better when looking at it for reference.


now if you could just point me to the thread that shows me how to get some 5.38 gears in here that'd be great... mmmkay?

Just down talking to my buddy a while ago who is running 650's in his... it's just not fair.


Of course... those 650's are turning THESE:

and I really don't see that aam725, cast iron or not... holding up to a set of 49's... :whaa:

 

[bebe]

Yeeeah - not possible sweet cheeks - don't try and order parts for an AAM725 because its an AAM760.

 

[bebe]

Even if my buddies pick on you about your "emotions" ???:giggle:

They were tards....LOL I know all the effective folks at COHVCO and Stay the Trail AND BRC....whatever, I didn't make the video, and we shot over 6 hours of footage to get those few minutes - they are trying to appeal to the masses, not to those of us who are educated in the fight. meh, I just laughed at their bad a$$ness.