Braided SS lines

[Scarsman]

Has anyone done stainless steel lines on their H2? I have noticed that the brakes just have kind of a mushy feel to them. I really notice it when wheeling and creeping down an extremely steep obstacle. I feel like I'm pushing really hard and it is just barely able to hold itself back.

I was going to eventually swap out the rubber hoses for braided ones to see if it makes a difference, but wondered if anyone had done it.



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[06 H3]

I know crown performance has them specifically for the H2 in a variety of different lengths in case you are lifted or disconnect the sway bars. Those are the ones I bought for added length after the spring over. I'd recommend them...not sure who uses them for the H2 though

 

[MuDnYrI]

I did SS B B Lines a few years back to my H2 and no more mush ... :thumbs:

 

[Kurt]

I'd look into solving the problem vs upgrading.

You may need a fluid flush, with new fluid or to purge air bubbles out of the system if any. The only time the lines are going to matter if there's a leak or crack somewhere. I'd stick to OEM as I don't see a benefit to SS lines, but that's just me.

If you do get the SS lines, get the DOT approved ones.

 

[Zach]

Chris, I had to had some lines fab'd up for a customer in Australia. I can give you their info, great place to deal with

 

[tomp]

I run them on my H2. Keep in mind that the H2 has a hydoboost system so you can push the pedal all the way to the floor if you keep pushing the pedal. However, the SS lines do rid the spongy feeling. Also keeps stuff from cutting the lines when offroad. I have wheeled with two other rigs that couldn't drive home due to something cutting their OEM lines, either broken CV shaft on one occurence and a large tree branch on the other occurence. Crown lines have both SS and kevlar in them - good stuff.

 

[Scarsman]

I did SS B B Lines a few years back to my H2 and no more mush ... :thumbs:

Thanks! That is just what I was hoping to hear.

I'd look into solving the problem vs upgrading.

You may need a fluid flush, with new fluid or to purge air bubbles out of the system if any. The only time the lines are going to matter if there's a leak or crack somewhere. I'd stick to OEM as I don't see a benefit to SS lines, but that's just me.

If you do get the SS lines, get the DOT approved ones.

Well, the fluid is good and there is no air in the system. It has always been this way, I'm just kind of getting tired of it.

I run them on my H2. Keep in mind that the H2 has a hydoboost system so you can push the pedal all the way to the floor if you keep pushing the pedal. However, the SS lines do rid the spongy feeling. Also keeps stuff from cutting the lines when offroad. I have wheeled with two other rigs that couldn't drive home due to something cutting their OEM lines, either broken CV shaft on one occurence and a large tree branch on the other occurence. Crown lines have both SS and kevlar in them - good stuff.

Thanks, I think I will go that route for sure. I have noticed that you can push the pedal all the way to the floor. I kind of thought it might have something to do with the hydroboost system. Good to know.

 

[06 H3]

Thanks Zach, I already have crown performance brakelines sitting in the garage waiting to go on the rig. I recommend those to you scarsman. really high quality stuff and IIRC they are DOT approved. I gotta go double check but I think they are.

 

[Scarsman]

Yeah, they are. I was just looking at their site. Have to figure out if I want any extra length.

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[twinmill28]

I'd look into solving the problem vs upgrading.
You may need a fluid flush, with new fluid or to purge air bubbles out of the system if any. The only time the lines are going to matter if there's a leak or crack somewhere. I'd stick to OEM as I don't see a benefit to SS lines, but that's just me.
If you do get the SS lines, get the DOT approved ones.

No comprende on this logic Kurt--I used to be alot more defininative (read=hardheaded) in my opinions, but my understanding is that the lines are going to matter more than just when they crack or leak. One of the issues with a spongy pedal can be the flex the brake lines develop (think squeezing a balloon) after miles of driving, expecially in hot conditions. Even a little bit of flex in a line can diminish a good brake feel in my opinion--after all, all that line is just a rubber tube, right? I could see upgrading to a quality SS line to make it solid and eliminate the problem. Been wondering about this with my van for years, just could never get rid of the soft feeling in the pedal even after bleeding and flushing and replacing other components. So on this go around to fix that damn rotor that keeps warping (a theory on the warped rotor problem is sticking caliper, but that'd be another post), I'm going to replace rotors, calipers, pads AND lines. If replacing the brake lines gets rid of the squishiness as I think it will--I'll be posting up everywhere, if not, you won't hear any more of my theories on brakes!

 

[Scarsman]

No comprende on this logic Kurt--I used to be alot more defininative (read=hardheaded) in my opinions, but my understanding is that the lines are going to matter more than just when they crack or leak. One of the issues with a spongy pedal can be the flex the brake lines develop (think squeezing a balloon) after miles of driving, expecially in hot conditions. Even a little bit of flex in a line can diminish a good brake feel in my opinion--after all, all that line is just a rubber tube, right? I could see upgrading to a quality SS line to make it solid and eliminate the problem. Been wondering about this with my van for years, just could never get rid of the soft feeling in the pedal even after bleeding and flushing and replacing other components. So on this go around to fix that damn rotor that keeps warping (a theory on the warped rotor problem is sticking caliper, but that'd be another post), I'm going to replace rotors, calipers, pads AND lines. If replacing the brake lines gets rid of the squishiness as I think it will--I'll be posting up everywhere, if not, you won't hear any more of my theories on brakes!

I think you are exactly right. The OE hoses are rubber with a woven reinforcement, and I believe they are expanding, like your balloon analogy, under high pressure.

Sticking calipers are a common cause for warping single rotors. Another possibility is a bad hose. The inside liner of the hose can crack and have a "flap" copme loose. This can act like a check valve, letting fluid into the caliper, but not letting it out, or only letting it release slowly, causing it to heat up and warp. I've seen people have problems with a brake not releasing and replace their calipers, only to burn up another one because it was the hose.

 

[SummitUp]

I just replaced my OEM brake lines with the Crown Performance brake lines a couple of weeks ago, and so a word of caution regarding the rear brake lines. The "Kit" they send for the H2 uses the wrong banjo fitting for the rear lines. The OEM rear brake lines use a block style banjo fitting (just like the front lines use) which look like this:

But the kit Crown Performance sends you uses a ring style banjo fitting which looks like this:

The photo shown on their web site even shows the rear lines with the ring style banjo fitting. The problem is that the rear caliper has a rectangular (square) depression cast into the caliper housing which receives the block style banjo fitting and keeps it from rotating or moving (again, same as the front caliper). Also the ring style banjo fitting that Crown uses doesn't have the double bend that the OEM fitting has which is there to make the line hug the back of the caliper. The ring style brake line doesn't have the double bend so the brake line comes out from the caliper at a 90° angle so the brake line loops out and away from the caliper and is much more exposed and more likely to get snagged on something.

So in my case I contacted Crown Performance and brought this to the attention of a very friendly and helpful guy by the name of Fermin. He had me send the rear lines back to them and they sent a new set of lines with the correct block style banjo fitting for a perfect OEM replacement. So my advice is don't order the H2 "Kit" directly from the Crown website, but call them and ask to speak with Fermin and be sure you get the correct OEM replacement for the rear lines.

 

[Scarsman]

Thank you! Very good to know!