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Brakes

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I'm not sure what Brake Caliper Grease is....probably some sort of ultra-high temp stuff. It looks alot like CV-joint grease...dark grey in color. Not sure if its silicone based. If the Delco pads come with some grease, then I would certainly use it. If not...you can buy it at any auto-parts store.

After some 30 years of jackin around with all sorts of brakes...I was very surprised at how quickly the H3 rear pads wore, and also at the caliper seizure. I've never seen that sort of wear & tear at such low milage. That being said, I don't fault the brake design (one of the few things that GM got right!). Its probably more the fault of my constant off-roading and I also think that the TCS, VSS, and ABS all contribute to more wear since those systems are activated quite often when wheeling. Even with the extra maintenance and shorter life...I would not change a thing about the H3's brake system. It works equally great with the Dana solid axle too!
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
SolidusJ...I recently tore into my H3 to do a SOA and some other mods. Since I had everything apart, I figured I would replace my rear pads at that time. I was very surprised to find both of the rear calipers were froze onto the floater pins! There was no side-to-side movement at all, and I had to PB-Blast the pins and wiggle them back & forth just to get em apart. This is normal for a 100K mile brake job...but came as a big surprise at only 29K on the clock. Guess those weekend jaunts through the mud and creeks had taken their tole.

If you don't have any...go get some "Brake Caliper Grease". Clean the pins with solvent & steel wool and re-lube them when you swap rear brake shoes. You should be able to grab the caliper after you've re-assembled it, and easily slide it back & forth about a 1/4" to 1/2". Failure to lube the pins will guarantee that the caliper will freeze up...and you'll immediately start wearing-out the brand new ($$$$) pads. Given the cost of the EBC-pads...a tiny bit of grease is cheap insurance. My ABS and TCS seem to work much better (and less often) now that the calipers are free to float like they're supposed to.

P.S. You won't have this issue on the fronts, as they are non-floating.

Thanks for the heads up, these pads are pretty nuts, can't wait to get them in.
 

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58Bisc

Well-Known Member
Messages
186
Location
Warminster, PA
My next project arrived and is ready for install. Drilled and slotted rotors, ceramic pads and stainless steel braided brake lines.

Complete set up:
ry%3D400



Just the braided lines:
ry%3D400
 

Pappibri

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,611
Location
Cohoctah, MI
Just finished doing my brakes yesterday... I got the AC Delco Duralast.. Hardware came with them and I paid 180.00 total at the dealer...They also came with the hardware and I lubed the pins up real good when I put them in... I have 61,000 on the truck, so I assume the old ones were the originals I should hope.. But anyway, the new ones seem to stop really good. No vibration or noise whatsoever.. I left my rotors as is, did not want to thin them out anymore by turning them:thumbs:.. They were still pretty smooth.. cleaned them up as good as possible.. Pretty easy job..
 

tfm-Neil

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Los Angeles
How do you know what good rotors look like? What should I be looking for to know if they need repair or replacement?

Check to make sure therr are no deep groves in them and inspect them for any signs of cracking. If the disk is shinny "looks almost like it's been polished" then they probably need to be turned or replaced. The minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor. :cheers:
 

Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
Thanks for the heads up, these pads are pretty nuts, can't wait to get them in.

I also went with EBC. Their site said the Green were same as OEM replacement so I went with the Yellow which they said was an upgrade. Not sure how your Green are going but the Yellow are awesome (just a little squealing till the bedded in).
 

SolidusJ

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,028
Location
FT. Carson, CO
I also went with EBC. Their site said the Green were same as OEM replacement so I went with the Yellow which they said was an upgrade. Not sure how your Green are going but the Yellow are awesome (just a little squealing till the bedded in).

The green are a huge upgrade from the OEM.
 

tfm-Neil

Active Member
Messages
27
Location
Los Angeles
Excellent......... Mine give off more dust but having black wheels I'm less concerned about that.

lol I was going to ask you if you had black wheels, I can't imagine running the yellows without black rims to hide the extra dust. :)

How well are your rotors holding up with those pads? I've run the yellows on other vehicles in the past and as I recall they chewed through rotors quite a bit faster.
 

Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
lol I was going to ask you if you had black wheels, I can't imagine running the yellows without black rims to hide the extra dust. :)

How well are your rotors holding up with those pads? I've run the yellows on other vehicles in the past and as I recall they chewed through rotors quite a bit faster.

I haven't measured them yet but you can see they have been running harder. Again, I don't mind that because I am after performance. Like all things everything you upgrade should be in balance. i.e. I have upgraded the tyres to 35", the Pads to EBC Yellow, I should have also upgraded the discs also. The way I look at it if it wears the OEM discs prematurely it gives me a reason to buy the upgrade. I have 106K KM, over 60K M on the rotors so they have done pretty well so far but next pad change I am expecting they will have to go.
 
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