Busted ANOTHER driver's side outside CV

[lowtrac]

Some of you may recall this happened a while back and I was towed home by a Jeep. This time I was towed to a friend's house by an F150 since I was at work which is about 30 miles from home.

I haven't done ANY wheeling. Seriously. Street driving only. I was in a drive through at lunch and it went. I was able to get it into a parking lot under it's own power but that was that. I know the outside diff bushings are shot but I can't believe that would allow enough movement of the diff to cause enough bind in the CV to snap it.

I've recently swapped the upper control arm, lower ball joint and hub on that side

I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point as to what is causing this.

 

[atvspeed4]

transfercase sounds stuck in locked position

 

[lowtrac]

I though about that, but when the axle breaks it won’t drive. It spins free like it’s in 4H.


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[Happy Hummer]

Which brand of CV?

 

[lowtrac]

I replaced the one that was in it when I got it, I believe to be the original, because of a torn boot. The first shaft was CarQuest, and this one is a Duralast Gold.


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[cgalpha08]

Go with OEM acdelco next. It sucks I know they are pricy, but they last. It's documented all too well that the aftermarket ones break way too easily.

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[4speedfunk]

Shouldn’t need a tow. Use 4HI-lock whenever you break the front driveline. This will allow you to drive on your own power. Towing does not save you anything, as all the same parts are still rotating.


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[Traxx]

Use an oem half shaft next time. Those cheapo ones really aren't any good.

 

[lowtrac]

Shouldn’t need a tow. Use 4HI-lock whenever you break the front driveline. This will allow you to drive on your own power. Towing does not save you anything, as all the same parts are still rotating.


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I tried that. No dice. I put it in 4HI-lock right after it happened and it drove for about half a mile before it quit pulling. I tried turning it off and switching between 4HI and 4HI-lock and it still wouldn’t pull. Wouldn’t do anything in 4low either. I noticed this same behavior last time. It’s almost like the transfer case will cycle between lock and unlocked modes. The lights on the dash work normally.


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[lowtrac]

Do you think that’s possible? That sometimes the transfer case goes into 4HI-lock on the street and it’s putting too much stress on the CVs? It is ornery sometimes when turning.


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[alrock]

Do you have the torsion bars cranked up?

I use aftermarket CVs and find that they start binding up after a while. Reloader and I have replaced a few CV axles just due to binding, but before obvious failure.

 

[lowtrac]

Do you have the torsion bars cranked up?

I use aftermarket CVs and find that they start binding up after a while. Reloader and I have replaced a few CV axles just due to binding, but before obvious failure.

When I got it it did have the bars cranked. I backed them back off prior to putting this newest CV in though.


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[atvspeed4]

I tried that. No dice. I put it in 4HI-lock right after it happened and it drove for about half a mile before it quit pulling. I tried turning it off and switching between 4HI and 4HI-lock and it still wouldn’t pull. Wouldn’t do anything in 4low either. I noticed this same behavior last time. It’s almost like the transfer case will cycle between lock and unlocked modes. The lights on the dash work normally.


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This sounds exactly like what was happening in one of our 2006 and was randomly destroying driverside CV shafts. Ended up being a totally worn out shifter fork that was randomly allowing the collar to slide into lock position but lights on dash showed all wheel drive mode consistently

 

[lowtrac]

I'm thinking that's what it's doing. It's felt like it was binding on turning since I've had it but sometimes it feels fine. When I get it home this week I'll start working on getting the transfer case out. I already bought a new shift fork a while back.


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[lowtrac]

It’s done and I’m tired. Details later.


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[Panzer07]

It’s done and I’m tired. Details later.


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this job I'm surprise it hasn't been recorded it is easy and hard depending on which road u take..

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[lowtrac]

I had planned to video it, but I did most of it by myself so I figured I’d take pictures along the way.

Drive shafts removed

Actuator, speed sensor and O2 sensor harnesses disconnected. The harness was zip-tied to various spots so I cut all those so I could get the whole thing out of the way.

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[lowtrac]

Speed sensor. AKA “higher-up fill port” for the transfer case fluid. I used Dextron VI.

Vent line disconnected.

Actuator removed. I read that you didn’t have to take it off, but it definitely help with clearance.

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[lowtrac]

Transmission jack. Shade tree level: Expert.

A little scrap wood and the dolly made for a workable stand. I removed the case bolts with a T40 socket on an electric impact wrench.

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[lowtrac]

I had already removed the rod the shift forks ride on before taking this picture, but you can tell the fork isn’t sitting in the collar correctly. Also, the actuator shaft thing came up out of its hole. I guess that’s where the pin is people talk about breaking. I can see how that would be easy to do when putting the case back together.

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[lowtrac]

I wish I had taken a picture of the new fork next to this one. The difference was remarkable. You could easily move the collar up and down without it even contacting the fork.

This has been a problem since I bought it. I’m thinking the previous owner traded it because they knew something was wrong with the transfer case. This is the only H3 I’ve ever driven so I had no frame of reference for what was normal and what wasn’t. It drives like a normal vehicle now. For me, that’s quite exciting.


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[RamRod]

Thanks for posting, did you put in a plastic or metal replacement fork?


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[lowtrac]

Thanks for posting, did you put in a plastic or metal replacement fork?


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Metal. It's the Dorman one. $16 on Amazon.


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[Happy Hummer]

Nice post. Thanks.