Constant Popping noise while turning right

[Guerrero]

Hello all H4O members,

I have a problem that is frustrating me, I have a 2006 Hummer H3 auto with 80K miles, i usually take it off road but not rock crawling.
I usually use it to go fast in desert and things like that, but i try to maintain it in good shape and in perfect condition of parts and reinforced items (I have Outfitter design front diff poly bushing and steering rack installed).

Now I have a problem that I can feel better in the road, when I am stopped or running at low speed (5-20 mph) if I turn my wheel 1 quarter to middle turn and maintein it while mid accelerates, the front end start to make a constant popping noise, related to the wheels speed, the faster I go, the faster it makes "pop pop pop". Its not always making it, usually but not always.

The strange thing about it, is that If I turn more and maintein or I accelerate hard it doesnt do it.
I know thanks to do all the fix myself and this awesome forum a lot about mechanical of the h3 and I think directly about cv axle issues or wheel bearing, so I crawl under the hummer and try to move all the parts to detect wich one is loose or bad and all seems ok and tight (ball joint, sway bar, bolts, etc).
I make a lot of test with the car running, making circles while turning to full lock, accelerate to full throttle while turning, try the hub bearing in highway, jump the car to see if the suspension is the problem and nothing, all seems perfect.

Please i need help to pintpoint it what it could be

Thanks and sorry for my english. Guerrero

 

[amrg]

I had similar issues, was a CV joint. Had both sides replaces at the same time. Mine went out at 85K miles and I take my H3 offroad in the desert every other week!
Anyway, I had mine replaced when the popping became vwry obvious, like when Im accelerating all the time instead of just when turning...

 

[woodwardsh3]

I would say the same bad CV joint in the front Axle shaft.

 

[Guerrero]

Ok, thanks you so much for the answers..i thought the same, cv axle problems but it's strange that it doesnt do it if I go straight, or turn more, or accelerate heavier..only do it under light rights turns between 5-20 mph, and i only feel it in the floor, not the steering..

Despite of that, thanks so much both of you for your answers. I think that yes, it could be cv axles..more opinions will be great!

Guerrero

 

[amrg]

My truck was doing the exact same symptoms you described until I went wheeling one last time. Next day it was popping all the time

 

[Panzer07]

I'd check the driveshaft boot sleeve, I had that same popping and thought it was one of the cv since one of them had a leaking boot that had been leaking grease for a year or so, anyways I replaced the cv and the popping was still there every now and then or like you describe it when turning at a certain angle, making me believe that it was the cv, but end up being a ripped and leaking driveshaft boot sleeve. After I replaced with the Tantton driveshaft it went away.
Just my two cents



Torres

 

[amrg]

Speaking of the drive shaft, before replacing my CVs I had weird occasional vibes in the floor board and thought they were from the CV, turned out my drive shaft bolts were loose.

 

[Guerrero]

Well thanks you for responds, I check the driveshaft and it's in good shape..today I lift the car, and let the four wheels in the air. I test the car running while turning, changing speed and nothing about any noise..all quiet and perfect.

Yeah, I know, the car in the air is without load added to transmission's components, but the popping noise related to cv would be there if it's bad. Because running in the street it's making the noise without a lot of throttle, only taking of while turning right with so little angle (1/4 turn).
I go to a friend's garaje and we test all the play that we can found in the front (ball joints, wheel bearing, etc) and we only found a little bit of play in the steering rack, but so little to make any popping noise...

Sooo, I dont know very wheel what to do next. Tomorrow I will check the motor mounts (replaced three months ago), and check chassis components like crossmember bolts or cracks. Because front differential and steering rack is with a poly bushing kit (outfitter design).

Please, if any other input or opinion, say it, is great to read.

Thanks so much again and sorry for my english.

Guerrero

 

[alrock]

Well thanks you for responds, I check the driveshaft and it's in good shape..today I lift the car, and let the four wheels in the air. I test the car running while turning, changing speed and nothing about any noise..all quiet and perfect.

Yeah, I know, the car in the air is without load added to transmission's components, but the popping noise related to cv would be there if it's bad.

I don't think you gave the CV a fair test. It's a HUGE difference to be turning in the air vs. turning with resistance on the ground. The "popping" noise comes because you've got two forces opposing each other and components are arguing. There's no opposing force when running with the tires in the air.

We've taken out a couple of CVs lately that seemed nice and normal when in the truck, but once we got them out of the knuckle we realized that the CVs had essentially seized as we could not move the outer half of the axle like it should have moved. We were not able to make this determination until we had done that much disassembly.

It's not hard to tear down the truck to that point and you may want to consider revisiting your exam of the CVs.

 

[Guerrero]

Hi alrock and thanks for your answer. Yes I know that my exam is so much superficial to know if the cv axle is bad. But i dont tell before that 5000 miles ago I change the cv boot with a rcv performance ones and the cv was in perfect condition, not seized, and i repack it with grease and install it in the truck.
That is why I am a bit cautelous of thinking directly that the cv is the culprit. That maybe is it. Thats is why I love to hear histories or opinnion about similar thinks that happens in this forums.
Because now I know that cv's is a potencial culprit. Thanks for your responds

 

[SGT-Wright]

Check axel nut and bearing tightness. If it was apart before it might not be set right now. Maybe you have some slack in the differential from wear or if the case has stretched that might make some noise.

 

[Guerrero]

Update!:

Well, finally the culprit was a defective Front driveshaft CV joint, it has seized up and once out of the car if I turn the CV, it makes the popping noise. I test the car without front driveshaft and in 4hIGH LOCK and all popping noise dissapear, also a defective noise like bearings that I felt.

Well, Now I install a New CV Joint kit from DORMAN, and It comes pregreased, and only to pop in the driveshaft. But here I found one Problem. It has a click click noise, and little play between the spline and the CV joint itself, you can hear it clicking under rotational test by hand. I am a bit confused, if this is normal or not. I still didnt install it on the Hummer, i want tomorrow to put it more grease and test it again. If still clicking I will install it on the truck,
But I want you to question that: It's normal that little rotational play between the spline in the shaft itself and the Cv joint?

Thanks a lot because your answers, alrock you was right according to a bad cv joint noises, and Panzer07 was right too. Despite that, thanks a lot all of you because your answer!

 

[alrock]

You are turning it by hand and there's a bit of noise? Was that different on one side vs. the other? Even with a bit of noise, I doubt there's an issue. Haven't dealt with Dorman on this part (have used EMPI and Cardone) but I found the weakness on the aftermarket was more about the axle shaft than the CV.

My thought is if you want absolute security go with the OEM/GM part. If you want to save money (I'm all for that) go aftermarket, but accept the risks. You already saw that with your first replacement. I'm running Cardone CV axles in my truck and understand I may be gambling with reliability and/or strength.

 

[Bigunit]

FWIW, go with OEM/GM CVs. They seem to last longer under normal driving conditions and have seen some fail off-road but less than the aftermarket parts. Sometimes the extra $$ spent saves you money in the long run.

 

[Guerrero]

Thanks alrock and bigunit,

I believe that you are talking about halfshaft cv joint, and I am talking about the CV joint in the front Propeller shaft, between front differential and transfer case.

I search for oem replacement of the cv and I only found that you need to buy the whole Propeller shaft from GM, (here in Spain cuoted at 600$) so I search in the forum and see that a few member replace it with a Dorman CV joint, so I went that route.

My only concern is knowing if that little play between the front propeller shaft spline and the CV joint spline is normal or not...

Thanks again for your answers, and yes if a cv halfshaft axle needs replace I will go OEM after yours recomendations.

 

[woodwardsh3]

When I replaced mine with the dorman I all so noticed a bit of play in the spline and I believe that is normal, As I have had no problems after replacing the cv on the Propeller shaft.

 

[chaos254]

Glad you found your noise. I also have a popping on right turns. Sounds like I need to pull my front driveshaft and check it

 

[Guerrero]

Well..I found one problem but not THE problem..

after install and regrease of the front propeller shaft CV joint, I test the hummer and still making the exact same noise: bup bup bup under right turns...

Soo I guess that the problem is a front wheel bearing or a halfshaft cv joint, since that the noise only appear under transmission load..
So bad because I am student and is hard to pay for new parts.
Thanks all for your answer. Guerrero

 

[Guerrero]

Well, I replace both Front Halfshaft, with the OEM Alpha ones, #15886012.

The popping noise is gone! One halfshaft had play in the outer CV

So, I have my problem fixed. Thanks you all! Great Forum

P.d: I recommend when installing the Halfshaft (#15886012) that is longer than the previous OEM one, that you can install it without losing the lower ball joint!!!

You only need to lose the lower mount from the front Shocks, that allow you to gain more travel in the suspension, and you can install the Halfshaft into the Wheel Bearing!

I hope that this will help you in the future.

Thanks you so much again. Guerrero