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Daily driving H1?

skeptic

Well-Known Member
Messages
737
Location
Orygun
What is funny though, is the H2 is actually bigger than the H1. When I have my H2 beside a friend's H1 it makes the H1 look small.

H1 is 184.5" long, 86.5" wide, and 77" tall.

H2 is 203.5" long, 81.3" wide, and 79" tall.

So the H1 is wider, but is overall smaller.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'm referring to width... I know the H2 is longer and taller, but width is what makes parking and narrow crowded roads an issue.
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,401
Location
Central Texas
My M998 can only do 55 mph top speed. Well it can do more, but the drive train system can't handle it. The HMMWV isn't like the Hummer, it wasn't designed for long road trips. You actually have to pull over alot and let all the hardware cool down from time to time. If you wanted to do go somewhere far away and do off-roading your actually suppose to flat deck it to the location. Don't get me wrong, I rather off-road with a HMMWV then an H1 if given the choice because it was a truck designed for off-roading and nothing but off-roading, in fact it can actually out-preform an H1 off-road for a number of reasons (depending on the situation).

HMMWV's (the older versions) were made lighter, simpler then the H1 (not to mention all the parts are waterproof and can be completely submerged underwater up to the snorkel and exhaust pipe). H1's have all kinds of things in it that are designed for comfort and coolness which take away from it's reliability (such as finished interiors, electronic vehicle operation things, parts not made to military/reliability specifications). All of these factors determine how the trucks function. The H1 is a good off-road vehicle and a diesent on-road vehicle, but the HMMWV is by far a great off-road vehicle and totally crap when it comes to putting them on the road (you just have to treat it like an aircraft and not like a car in order to get the most out of it and properly maintain it).

To all the H1 fan's out there that read this...don't worry, I love H1's to and I'm still planning to get one to go with my M998 when I get the money :)

One reason I prefer the older H1s. They are lighter, all mechanical, not much upgrade on the interior and unlike the HMMWV they have CTIS.
 

FenrisUltra

Active Member
Messages
35
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
One reason I prefer the older H1s. They are lighter, all mechanical, not much upgrade on the interior and unlike the HMMWV they have CTIS.

HMMWV can have a CTIS to you know, you just add in the hubs, 24 volt deep water fordable air pump, 24 volt air dryer, and control interface with the manual valves by the driver seat in as an additional kit. Plus if you want to save money, you can take out the hubs and replace them with H1 CTIS ones (that is if you didn't want the more expensive hubs that are manufactured to military specifications). The HMMWV and H1 hubs are backwards/forwards compatible. The reason why HMMWV doesn't come with them initially is because the hubs are prone to leaking (especially under extreme military activity).
 
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3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,401
Location
Central Texas
I know some HMMWVs came with CTIS. One of the first things the mechanics did was remove it. Personally I have never seen one with CTIS.
 

skeptic

Well-Known Member
Messages
737
Location
Orygun
What is funny though, is the H2 is actually bigger than the H1. When I have my H2 beside a friend's H1 it makes the H1 look small.

H1 is 184.5" long, 86.5" wide, and 77" tall.

H2 is 203.5" long, 81.3" wide, and 79" tall.

So the H1 is wider, but is overall smaller.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I was referring to the width only. Narrow roads and tight parking lots and such.
 

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
Oh, I know. It just strick me funny the first time I had my truck next to an H1 how small the H1 looked! But you're right, width is the issue in town.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Messages
957
Location
Orange County, CA
Plus if you want to save money, you can take out the hubs and replace them with H1 CTIS ones (that is if you didn't want the more expensive hubs that are manufactured to military specifications). The HMMWV and H1 hubs are backwards/forwards compatible. The reason why HMMWV doesn't come with them initially is because the hubs are prone to leaking (especially under extreme military activity).

There shouldn't be any difference between the military/civilian Hubs, it's the same AMG Part number. I have 8 hubs stacked around, military/non military. You can just convert a non-ctis hub to ctis with 4-5 parts.. the spindle, seal, retaining ring, the updated steering knuckle and the rock guard.

Other than that the military/civilian hubs have different locking nut retention methods and slightly different paint other than that it's the same part :)
 
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FenrisUltra

Active Member
Messages
35
Location
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
There shouldn't be any difference between the military/civilian Hubs, it's the same AMG Part number. I have 8 hubs stacked around, military/non military. You can just convert a non-ctis hub to ctis with 4-5 parts.. the spindle, seal, retaining ring, the updated steering knuckle and the rock guard.

Other than that the military/civilian hubs have different locking nut retention methods and slightly different paint other than that it's the same part :)

Well if you have 8 hubs stacked around...send some my way please! :shifty:
 

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Messages
957
Location
Orange County, CA
The 8 geared hubs are down to 2 new ones, I have to rebuild the others but I don't really want more than 2. If you keep an eye open you can get them for cheap, I think I paid around 50-100 ea for them from various people who swapped them for 12K hubs, or picked up a bunch on surplus and swapped the old ones out.

Now when I get a leaky seal, I can just swap in a spare hub, and bench repair the leaking seal instead of dealing with it on the truck.

Dave, I'm in Vancouver for a little bit longer, I'm planning to return to either Nevada or Socal this winter, I'll know within a month a more exact time frame. Can't wait to get out of here.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Ha weekdays wrong with Hongcouver.... I mean Vancouver...

I am living in Victoria and don't mind a trip to Van every once and a while but would never live there!
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Nah I love it here! We get less rain than any where on the island and much less then the Vancouver area... the Olympic Mountains in Washington strip the rain away before it gets to our part of the island so we have them to thank

I grew up in Alberta, the winter here is like an Edmonton summer!
 

JonBishop

Well-Known Member
Messages
724
Location
Glendora, CA
Looking like 6-8 months from now I should be able to start DDing my dream H1 [emoji16]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
Is there a list of maintenance or a factory schedule for the H1? Is it that much different from any other vehicle from what the factory lists? Oil change etc...
 

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Messages
957
Location
Orange County, CA
Here's a list of the factory services, A, B and C groups.

http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/Scheduled/scheduledMaint.htm

Items added in Red are by the article author.

Right now I'm daily driving my H1 in LA, so far so good, only major show stopper I had since my overhaul is the blockage/ main/aux tank switch issue which is going to get looked at later.

I just unpacked all my stuff out of the struck yesterday including my old tool box, going to have to think of an improved storage solution for my gear, especially since I'm adding the Bogart HMMWV jack to my kit which weighs like 90 lbs].

I kinda like having the full bed in my truck again :), I think I'm going to fabricate my own slant back rack next month.
 

GreatDaneHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
994
Location
Chicago
I read this and get very different stories about what kind of maintenance is really needed. Some people have spent upwards of $50k over a 4 year time on fixing issues and rebuilding it. Others have spent $14k including all upgrades and tires etc. I think in the end it comes down to are you doing the work yourself and can you find the off name GM parts that work as subs ? can you post up a few pictures or a build thread of your hummer Kurt. I love that color.

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20096
 

3Hummers

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
10,401
Location
Central Texas
Those numbers you are quoting are nuts. I have had quite a few H1s and none of them approached even the low end of your range over 4 years. You can do a major "C" service yourself for a couple of hundred dollars. If you make a poor buying decision and buy one that needs a lot of work for full retail you could dump a lot of money into one but that required you to do something stupid to start off. I replaced a motor in one of mine for $4500.00 all in. I bought a 10,000 mile take out engine from Predator had Mike S a Tustin install it. I could have paid 10-12K for a new engine but that did not make sense to me.
 

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Messages
957
Location
Orange County, CA
When trucks were under major guard warranty, it wasn't uncommon to see 20-60,000$ worth of maintenance figures tossed around. Got a bad door lock/sticky solenoid, well there goes a days labor and $1000 of parts to fix a door rattle, etc. That's what happens when someone else pays the bill.

Once the trucks are off warranty things change.

Some people are knee deep in parts and horde/pickup parts when they are cheap. For $2000 I picked up a spare 4L80E and a NP242-HD brand new. Never used it, flipped it for profit to pay for my new engine.

If you buy a well maintained truck with records, you won't have too many issues or costs if you leave it stock.

If you buy a project, then all figures go out the window.
 
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