Differential end brackets

[atvspeed4]

Anyone have a spare set of differential end brackets? It does not matter if the bushings are junk. I am going to try and fix them once and for all.

 

[4speedfunk]

I got some...however if I were you, I'de look around and get some Colorado/Canyon versions. Whatever fix you got planned....can be "double fixed" by using these. Look closely at this photo of some Colorado parts and you'll see why...

 

[atvspeed4]

I got some...however if I were you, I'de look around and get some Colorado/Canyon versions. Whatever fix you got planned....can be "double fixed" by using these. Look closely at this photo of some Colorado parts and you'll see why...

View attachment 5973

A few years ago I was looking at the colorado diff and found that it ONLY mounted with the four rubber mounts on the axle tub ends and did not have any support or attachment for the pinion. Since one of the sponsors http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...H3T-Scorpworks-Bushing-Front-Diff-Crossmember made a solution and a stiffer durometer for the pinion bushing recently we are going to make a kit to swap the factory tube end bushings out for custom delrin inserts with a new metal sleeve. I always liked the idea of going above and beyond with adding the colorado support but I am guessing most people will not want to drill more holes in their frame. I wouldn't mind doing so. Did you ever actually install the colorado brackets?

 

[alrock]

Have you removed the OEM bushing/insert yet from the factory piece? Not an easy task, or at least it wasn't for me when I played with this once. This is a tough piece to come up with a rebuild kit. Interested in the progress you have on this.

 

[4speedfunk]

I gotta admit...my interest in the stock axle is very limited since the Dana swap. Having done the SAS, I can vouch that its not for everybody....its time-consuming, expensive, and its a one-way ticket to Awesomeville. It requires cutting the entire front suspension off, and it cannot be returned to stock...so it takes a special commitment from the owner to dive-in. True it does cure the inherent problems with the AAM-7 but, there needs to be a cheaper solution for those guys that want to stay on the mild side. I'm pondering an AAM-7 build simply because I got a couple of em lying around, and there seems to be an ever-increasing list of people that are breaking them. If the AAM-7 could be beefed-up...there is certainly enough people to make a prototype project worthwhile. IMO the mounting system is the #1 suspect, and therefore the most worthy of attention.

YES...the C/C trucks rely on the end brackets only for mounting. There is no "belly" mount at the diff snout.
NO...I have not messed with replacing end-plate bushings. The only guy I'm aware of that has, was Nugget (down under).

I'm not at all impressed with the GM system, and I would not hesitate to scrap it and start over with my own mounting/bushing design. BUT...that's me. I think most folks are looking for some sort of simple fix, and that's the only benefit I see for using the C/C parts. Hell...I don't even have a TEST VEHICLE anymore! -LOL

 

[atvspeed4]

If you have a set of these could you pm me what you would like for them? Thanks

 

[4speedfunk]

ATV...tried a PM...not sure it went thru. I got a pair I'll sell you...Real nice ones...$45 delivered. -4sf

 

[atvspeed4]

ATV...tried a PM...not sure it went thru. I got a pair I'll sell you...Real nice ones...$45 delivered. -4sf

Sorry I am just getting back to this! I can paypal you $$ right away. Ill try to PM you too. My delrin order is supposed to be in this week and Id prefer to have a set built before I need to swap them.

Thanks

 

[4speedfunk]

PM sent.

 

[atvspeed4]

$$ sent.

Thanks!

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Schwarttzy]

I know this is just talk, but in the future I'm going to have a custom axle built using Dana 44 that bolts right in there. I could get sidetrack by an iron differential, but I really don't see much a challenge making it with a Dana 44.

 

[06 H3]

That's my next build phase....lol watch for that new thread in a few days

 

[atvspeed4]

That's my next build phase....lol watch for that new thread in a few days

While I know Bebe has done alot of research into this and actually done it. I have done alot of testing and research as well. We have also put alot of $$ into trying different ways of making this work. Schwarttzy I appreciate your ambition as we too thought it was going to be an easy swap. Its not. We finally figured out how to do it but will not be able to get started on a prototype until late January. You need to use a low pinion 8.5 10 bolt, and like bebe did for her 44 have flanges turned and splined so that you can run CVs out of a silverado. (They fit the outer wheelbearing) The trouble we ran into was that the 2500 CV is longer than the 1500 cv and that required the housing to be slightly lowered and shifted towards the center of the vehicle so for off the shelf CVs the 1500 would work better. The most difficult part of this is you cannot run a bearing retainer on the short side as Bebe did. There just isnt enough room. Using the 8.5" ten bolt (same as our rear and also most 80's GM fronts) that have c clips allows you to retain the stub shaft internally either through snap rings or c clips.

As for the stock mount near the pinion, there are two options...

#1 fabricate and run two bolt mounts like the colorado has (with delrin bushings) and not even use the pinion mount

#2 We contacted and worked with a company that produces welding wire to get hold of a wire that could weld to the housing without requiring pre/ post heat or peening. No it is not just a high nickle rod such as you see people posting like a 7018!!! With this wire we were able to weld to the dana 30 IFS we are working on for the S10 vehicles. The shop doing our welding did several test samples under many tons of pressure and are very confident in this application. What is most important with welding a third mount to the pinion is that the material is very thin here and you need to make sure it is properly reinforced and you do not damage the pinion bearing area.

Back to the stub shaft.... We are still up in the air as to if we can turn down a rear 8.5 blank or will need to have a custom piece made from 4340 and heat treated

We promise to make this a reality but just need a little time as we are working with a supplier to bring the upgraded tierods to market.

 

[atvspeed4]

...I might have let out a little too much of our research....oh well :huh:

 

[4speedfunk]

ATV...your parts are coming via USPS, look for them on Friday or Saturday. Thanks.

Guys...you need to check out an IFS front axle build from a guy named "Blackbear". He used to be big cheese over at CHO before the Hummer-gate affair. Anyway...he took a 10-bolt front axle from a 70's Blazer and modded it to accept stock H3 half-shafts. The big advantage of using this axle is that it shares the same axle splines as the AAM-7...so you don't need to go full-custom with the build. You can leave the rest of the front-end alone, and simply replace the middle part. This axle is very common, and although its not the strongest thing out there...I'm sure its a step up from the stock unit. You can get gears & lockers for them too. Here's a teaser pic of the completed 10-bolt with the passenger-side half-shaft installed. The drivers-side simply re-used the stock half-shaft receiver....



I never found out if he finished this...but, it was looking really good when I got these photos. I have more pics if interested.

P.S. I have a pile of these 8.5 10-bolts, if anybody wants one.

 

[06 H3]

Ah ha! I was gonna post up asking about his setup it seemed the best out of all the attempts...

I thought he did actually use it and run it.

Wheres the other mount (pass side) That is my next build up for squeaky. So far the rancho/spring over kicks ass but dont have the ability to create a whole sub frame and a arms like bebes build or the time to do your low buck SAS. If this diff can withstand abuse and then throw some RCV axleshafts in with my ideas for keeping a steering rack alive I think I can have the most bombproof setup without taking a grinder to the front end. I would also run colorado mounts with better bushings and look into the truss design you were going to do to keep all the bolted pieces together...

 

[atvspeed4]

Anyway of contacting him? I followed that thread from way back. I though the issue ended up being with the short side and its mount. Was it him or another guy that did the same thing and was going to sell them too but the final version that he ran had the stock cv on the driverside and a flanged cv on the passenger side? Its close in strength to the low pinion dana 44. I remember on my friends '83 k10 that had a 10 bolt front we wheeled it pretty hard and even with 33x14.5 super swampers and a healthy 350 crate motor never had an issue.

"It's marginally weaker than a GM or FSJ open-knuckle Dana 44. They have slightly smaller 28-spline shafts and thinner axletubes. However, almost all the 10-bolt knuckle components and stub shafts interchange with the open-knuckle Dana 44."

We are not supporting the weight of the vehicle with the axle so it will be negligible how strong the tubes are.

I think this is going to be a great swap! Id love to run 37s.

 

[atvspeed4]

Thanks! They arrived already and are in our shop, hopefully Ill have them swapped out to delrin bushings by sunday night. I can tell it is going to be a pain to get the stock bushings out.

 

[06 H3]

Ill take a set ASAP! Lol burn em that's what nugget did

 

[atvspeed4]

These suckers are really in there and do not want to press out, I think your right tomorrow the torch comes out!

 

[06 H3]

Hell yea! Now it's a real mod

 

[atvspeed4]

Well that was awful one done.

 

[5gn-h3t]

Other than NVH, is there really any reason not to solid mount the diff?

 

[06 H3]

how much for the bushings? One of mine is shot. I will Paypal you right now if you send em out lol

 

[atvspeed4]

It will probably make more sense to have me send a complete set and have you send yours back as a core. We have to burn/ press out the center metal sleeve then depending on what version of bushing you have turn the metal sleeve down to .803 on the lathe then press it all together.