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Ditching the spacers

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I agree if you break the thread locker product that has cured, it's time to start over, just the practice I have used. I have removed things and you can see it still on there cured and crusty and I guess would work to a degree but not like adhering to both surfaces. If I do remove a fastener that has had that applied I wire wheel remove the old stuff off and use the recommended solvent to clean up the residue. That also helps run the bolt up easily with the new application of thread locker.
I have tried setting a detent torque wrench to say 5 lbs less than I torqued it to and if does not move I know it is still tight. Again just something I have tried when checking things.
We are talking wheel lug nuts here not head torque.
That is interesting they would suggest to re torque when using thread locker.
That is a good idea otherwise to check torque after a new installation.
I don't use it most of the time because I change wheels and tires for certain trips. I do carry a torque wrench and use it. I had my rock rings made with the lug nuts exposed just for that reason.
I have heard some people say well the thread locker acts as a lubricant and changes the torque reading. Well add a pound or two or have a wheel fall off I will go with the thread locker.
Those are just my ideas and experience I wanted to express. I learned this mostly with competition cars in a group we had of everything from British TR3's, MGB's, Formula Fords and Formula Atlantics and Porsche. We did not reuse lock washers and always used thread locker. We safety wired anything that was possible to do so. Including the oil drain plug! Then you know it got done. "Human error occurs"
I have certainly thought an H3 with high torque in low gears offroading would also be a good place to use this product or a very good regime of checking things often even of other components fasteners. Why not?
 
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