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Flex and ABS wires

LS12FAST4U

Well-Known Member
Messages
80
Location
Idaho
I'm in need of more flex. I wheel in a lot of rocks so I'm going to take off my sway bars while on wheeling trips. What I need to know is which clips people are talking about when they get some more length out of the ABS wires. Pictures would help please I'm a visual learner.

Thanks
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Even at full drop, there's more length than the bump stop will allow droop... with that said, follow the wire to the top of the upper control arm. It then goes behind the inner fender towards the back of the vehicle. At the point it disappears behind the inner fender, there's a clip/wire holder - if you pop that one out, you'll get more length. Be warned, though, there's also enough length there for it to rest against the exhaust manifold
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Fronts are not the issue, as you can't get enough extra droop to really hurt anything. But the rears are a different story. Removing the rear bar will gain you considerably more droop, so un-clipping the rear ABS wires from the frame is probably good idea. Feel free to do all four wires but, the rears are usually the only ones that get out-drooped. There is plenty of extra wire, and you'll need it if you ever decide to do the SOA mod.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
The rear will droop for days. Lol. I just replaced my rear springs and had it fully drooped putting everything back together. I have warrior shackles that are like 2.5" longer than stock (1.25" lift) and I had to jack the axle up to get the bottom eye of the shock in the leaf mount. So I'm gonna hang on the shock before it runs out of droop. I also noticed the rear diff vent was getting yanked on pretty tight. I made an extended bracket for the rear brake lines so that saved those. Any more and extended brake lines would be a must. But for now, they're ok. I'm not too concerned about that cause usually the axle is rotating on the diff (center point). One wheel is up, one wheel is down. The only time I might potentially rip the brake lines or diff breather out would be if I jumped my truck (eh-hem.... 06-H3) where the suspension was fully unloaded on both sides. Even then, my shocks would probably limit the down travel and might save the other stuff. If they hold together. The shackles might be a tad too long and Schwartzys or Samcos might better match the extended length of the bilsteins I'm running in the rear.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Low profile leaf mounts might let the rear droop more as they move the bottom shock mount up an inch or two.... Therefore I might not top out the shock before the axle runs out of flex....
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
Disconnect the front and rear sway bars let traction control do it's thing.

I run my abs wires inside the framerail now. I had a rock come into my fender well and ripped the abs line off the plastic clip. I disconnected the wire and completely rerouted it
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
not the same....trust me.

H3 with a SAS I would take any day over a rubicon. I have driven my brothers JK and my SAS H3 and there is no comparison in comfort.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,496
Location
Meridian, ID
It can be done for less and the cost of a jk is pricey!

Either way I say disco your sway bars and wheel. As you learn how the h3 works you can go far in stockish form
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
That's going to cheap bro...that's not even enough for a Rancho lift id say something between 4-5k would be a good realistic price for a SAS. Should start saving your Christmas, lunch and beer money to do a SAS ad take your time...buy pieces every now and then whenever they are cheap or sales or you see a good deal.


Torres
 
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