4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
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- 4,250
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Okay...I finally found my cardboard mock-up from two years ago. I came up with this back when I was changing H3 front axles like oil filters. This was the next big idea I had for production around the THORparts camp. But, things change and I switched gears to focus on the SAS, so this got put in the warehouse to be forgotten. Maybe someday, it would be found and analyzed by "top men". Who? Lets just say "TOP MEN" ...and leave it at that. Well that day is today. Prompted by numerous broken axle threads, I'm posting these pics for your review...
Yes, its true...cardboard really is stronger than an AAM-7!
:giggle: (sorry, I couldn't resist that one)
Seriously...this truss was to be laser-cut from 3/16" steel, powder-coated, and bolted to the axle as shown. Its all once piece, formed into shape, then the front face of the truss gets sandwiched between the case and the cover, and the ends get bolted to the ends of the axle tubes using the stock holes. Then a mid-plate would get bolted to the side of the pumpkin after the main truss was installed, to further beef the diff case (I feel this joint is the source of most of the flex). The truss would be fully-gusseted, and my thinking was that this should remove 90% of deformation issues that these critters are known for. Obviously, the final version would be trimmed down somewhat and I was going to laser-cut some windows in the front face of the truss to lighten the weight. I never did get it installed onto the vehicle, so I don't know if it would even fit. I had a Rancho kit at the time, and my initial measurements seemed to confirm there was indeed room to get it in.
I was experimenting with different mounting arrangements, and I had pretty much settled on using Colorado/Canyon outboard mounts (4 bushings), instead of the stock (2 bushing) H3 units. As you can see from these photos...I did not have a finished design for the snout bushing, but the bottom plate of the truss would be included in the "bushing sandwich" and this would tie all of the mounting points together on the same hunk of steel, so the axle housing would no longer take the brunt of abuse by itself. I'm a long-time believer that the AAM-7 gets twisted, pulled, yanked, and jerked apart ....all due to the weak mounting system. I always wondered if it would hold up better if you could somehow stiffen it and quit using it for a crossmember. Anyway...I'm done with the IFS, and I have no intent on following through with this. But, if some of you "top men" want to give it a try...I'de love to see somebody install one and see if it adds some durability. I ain't claiming it would make the AAM-7 bullet-proof but, given the ongoing front axle issues, and the high-price tag to do something custom....this truss idea could be a cheap way to add some much-needed beef. Throwin it out there...
Yes, its true...cardboard really is stronger than an AAM-7!
:giggle: (sorry, I couldn't resist that one)
Seriously...this truss was to be laser-cut from 3/16" steel, powder-coated, and bolted to the axle as shown. Its all once piece, formed into shape, then the front face of the truss gets sandwiched between the case and the cover, and the ends get bolted to the ends of the axle tubes using the stock holes. Then a mid-plate would get bolted to the side of the pumpkin after the main truss was installed, to further beef the diff case (I feel this joint is the source of most of the flex). The truss would be fully-gusseted, and my thinking was that this should remove 90% of deformation issues that these critters are known for. Obviously, the final version would be trimmed down somewhat and I was going to laser-cut some windows in the front face of the truss to lighten the weight. I never did get it installed onto the vehicle, so I don't know if it would even fit. I had a Rancho kit at the time, and my initial measurements seemed to confirm there was indeed room to get it in.
I was experimenting with different mounting arrangements, and I had pretty much settled on using Colorado/Canyon outboard mounts (4 bushings), instead of the stock (2 bushing) H3 units. As you can see from these photos...I did not have a finished design for the snout bushing, but the bottom plate of the truss would be included in the "bushing sandwich" and this would tie all of the mounting points together on the same hunk of steel, so the axle housing would no longer take the brunt of abuse by itself. I'm a long-time believer that the AAM-7 gets twisted, pulled, yanked, and jerked apart ....all due to the weak mounting system. I always wondered if it would hold up better if you could somehow stiffen it and quit using it for a crossmember. Anyway...I'm done with the IFS, and I have no intent on following through with this. But, if some of you "top men" want to give it a try...I'de love to see somebody install one and see if it adds some durability. I ain't claiming it would make the AAM-7 bullet-proof but, given the ongoing front axle issues, and the high-price tag to do something custom....this truss idea could be a cheap way to add some much-needed beef. Throwin it out there...
