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Getting myself out of trouble with a $104k CNC milling machine.

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
319
Location
Golden, CO
Started my new tires project the other day. Picked up some 35" MTR's from Discount Tire, but was told that they would not mount them to my beadlocks(I expected this response). So it was back to my garage to perform the replacements, and no amount of soapy water seemed to help get the rims apart any easier!
After lots of hammering and prying, the outer rim finally came off, however the bolts underneath the rim scratched and marred up the O-ring sealing surface. I'm in trouble now, mounsting a tire to this would surely leak...I needed a friend with much cooler tools than I have in my garage, a simple hand file will not take care of this. rim 2.jpg
So I went to my friend Lee's Machine Shop called Davidson Precision Machine. He is in town here in Flagstaff and is an excellent machinist. He first went into the trade as a manual mill and lathe machinist, then went to college and studied drafting and programming, and then came back to being a machinist and ended up starting his own shop. Business has been very good for him, a company in town called Gore Medical has had a relationship with him in the past, and their shop manager started sending him parts straight away. The influx of invoices allowed him to start to purchase expensive CNC milling centers and lathes, which he has had customized to his liking, and the business keeps coming. Previously Gore has had to ship most of their work down to Phoenix or out of state and some overseas, because the type of machining required is often high-tolerance work on hardened stainless steels that are used in the medical device industry. Its great to see a homegrown shop and a hardworking citizen see such success without having to outsource. Gore very much likes that he is in Flagstaff because if they have a new version of a part or want to 'check up on things', they can just swing by his 'open-door' shop on lunch-hour and shake the man's hand that is making their parts. The crown jewel of his shop is a HAAS VF2SSYT Precision CNC Vertical Milling Center, its a 2012 model new from the factory and was ordered with the high-sensitivity upgrade. The positional accuracy of the cutting tool is 0.00001" on this machine, that's about a hundred times less than the diameter of the average human hair! machine shop 1.jpg
We wrote a quick program to skim the surface of the rim to clean it up. All that is left to do is enter the position of the part into the CNC's computer controlled coordinates system, by way of the wireless calibration probe that mounts into the chuck for the cutting tools. probe 2.jpg
Lapping the surface at 12,000 RPM with a 1/2" End-mill. This manufacturing technology is amazing. mill 1.jpg
Flawless surface finish. Im back in business!rim 3.jpg
And at 3AM everything finally came together. It helps to have friends. tires 2.jpg
 

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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Awesome machine! Nice to have access to that.
Thanks for sharing that story, I enjoy seeing that sort of thing.

What length bolts did you have to use to pull the two halves together, or did you use all thread rod??
I was thinking you need thread way down towards the end. Not sure how far.
I have not assembled a set that way yet as mine came mounted with tires but we had to o ring one and had lots of hands on it.

I still have that set of cross bar pins that I believe you made a long time ago.
 
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H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
319
Location
Golden, CO
Haha, and I still use your shock mount skids and they ROCK! I used full threaded rod, 8" I believe, 3/8". home depot didnt sell full thread, but Lowes did. You might want to buy 8 pcs(i did) because one or two can wear out while doing all 5 tires. I also used two washers on each threaded rod to create a simple bearing surface, this made it so that the rim surface didnt get damaged with all of the spinning. If you cant find full thread, jsut buy 8" ones and put a ton of washers on them, that will work in a pinch...
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I just got 5 quotes on a batch of skids since the original place shut me out. Whew! steel fabrication has gone way up!!

Thanks I have a friend with a tire shop and we used three pry bars and three young bucks on the one we did, lol
I'm going back to 285 tires to get what I want and better mileage and all the other reasons that are more important to me than 3/4 inch clearance.
So I have to get 5 mounted. Maybe this method will help I was just not sure how long I needed to start with, thanks.

Cooper ST/Maxx is what I have decided on for this set.
I will keep my Cooper STT 315 mounted, just in case.
 

tomp

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Location
Dallas
DISASSEMBLY
-Best tool for this job is a set of Tyrepliers and one or two large tire irons! Makes life very easy:)
-Once you remove outer ring of wheel using tyrepliers, flip tire over to work on other side. After going all the way around with tyrepliers to unseat bead, start back at beginning using a large tire iron with 1" block of wood atop tire and under tire iron. This will push tire further down wheel! Go all the way around again, as you did with the tyrepliers. Repeat again using 2" block of wood, to push tire down even further. Repeat again with 3" block and go all the way around. You see where I am going with this?


ASSEMBLY
Get four 3-1/2"x1/2" bolts, 4 washers and 4 nuts. The bolts dont need to be threaded all the way. Once you cinch them up just a little on these bolts, all the shorters bolts on the wheel will allow for pulling together the rest of the way. Only 4 washers will work, if using standard 1/2" washers, as they are too big to fit on inside of wheel. Use the 4 washers on the outside with pretty side toward wheel surface (bad side will mar finish.

Face TPMS valve stem on beadlock towards inside or outside of beadlock. The thought behind this, is so that they'll rotate like they do in an OEM wheel in the event there is some type of sleep mode in the sensors.

Coat new orings with vasoline thoroughly to prevent leaks!!!

Tighten bolts to 60ft/lbs in standard torque sequence, then start over at 80ft/lbs. Reinsert valvestem, air up, check for leaks using soapy water - especially at valvestem because they do leak!
 

H32NV

Well-Known Member
Messages
319
Location
Golden, CO
DISASSEMBLY
-Best tool for this job is a set of Tyrepliers and one or two large tire irons! Makes life very easy:)
-Once you remove outer ring of wheel using tyrepliers, flip tire over to work on other side. After going all the way around with tyrepliers to unseat bead, start back at beginning using a large tire iron with 1" block of wood atop tire and under tire iron. This will push tire further down wheel! Go all the way around again, as you did with the tyrepliers. Repeat again using 2" block of wood, to push tire down even further. Repeat again with 3" block and go all the way around. You see where I am going with this?

You are Right SIR! And TyrePliers cost $159 plus shipping From AUS to be used once or twice over the life of your truck! At least that was the best price that I found.

I opted for the use of two long tire spoons and a soft mallet, and ended up getting a process down that basically followed the same plan. The subsequent 4 rims didnt have damage to them after I figured it out.
 

tomp

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Location
Dallas
I have both H2/3 with beadlocks so it was a little easier for me to justify cost. There is also a large slide hammer tool that is supposed to work well on these wheels, but not sure what it cost.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,498
Location
Meridian, ID
I love seeing machines like that...For us normal guys we can only dream of that being in our garage!
 
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