H3 rear axle seal questions

[digglesworth]

thanks a million Zach... btw, the dealer also told me my left rear axle seal is leaking too so im gonna change both sides while the rotors are off. do you know of any write-ups or any other info on that?

 

[alrock]

Digg, to replace the axle seal you have to pull the axle. There's a c-clip on the end of it inside the diff. When we put in my locker we removed those c-clips to pull the axle. Not sure if that's required or if a good tug, like for the front axles, will do the trick.

From there you just pull the seal (seal puller or screwdriver), grease the new one and pop it in

 

[digglesworth]

Thanks alrock... I pulled up your thread on the locker install cause I remember seein it in there... I'm having complications with my broken collar bone so I'll have to wait a few weeks before I'm allowed under my truck...

 

[Zach]

Have seen the half shaft replaced on the trail. It's just a good tug. But you have to be careful when putting it back in so you don't nick the seal.

 

[digglesworth]

Sure haven't... Are you saying I can extract the rear axle without pulling the diff cover and removing the c clips and losing all my recently changed diff fluid?

 

[Zach]

Was talking about the fronts. Rears, you will have to pull the diff cover to slide out the axle shaft.

 

[alrock]

Yeah, the more I think about it you would have to pull the diff cover. If it was just a tug and pull, our wheels would be flying off left and right all of the time. Fronts are tug and pull - I've practiced that now too many times in the garage and on the trail.

Once your collar bone heals, remember to lube the axle and the seal before reinserting to minimize any chance of tearing. For reference, for the fronts I have these: Kent Moore Tools J-44394 Axle Seal Protectors, http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-J-44394-AXLE-SEAL-PROTECTORS-/300740617507 . Might work on the back too.

 

[digglesworth]

Stupid question??? What should I lube it with?

 

[alrock]

The diff oil - and obviously, the new 75W-90 full synthetic that you'd be putting in, not the dirt impregnated stuff that you'll be draining out.

 

[digglesworth]

Makes sense... Is that what you use to moisten up the seal before you pop that in place too?

 

[alrock]

I used a grease on the metal outer portion to help it slide into place, don't recall the type, but the diff oil should be sufficient. I used the oil on the rubber portion of the seal.

 

[digglesworth]

Thanks al... Do I just need to buy the rubber seals to do the job or do I need anything else with them?

 

[alrock]

Here's the part from gmpartshouse.com. It's a rubber seal in a metal housing. http://store.gmpartshouse.com/parts/2007/HUMMER/H3/?siteid=214638&vehicleid=1433659&section=REAR%20SUSPENSION&group=REAR%20SUSPENSION&subgroup=AXLE%20HOUSING&component=Axle%20seal

 

[alrock]

A seal puller like this helps, but it not required. You can get it from Amazon or the local parts store. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-S...&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=lisle+axle+seal+puller

A dead blow hammer with an appropriate large socket or similar helps seat the seal. You have to be careful when pushing/beating it in. Here's an "official" tool that's a bit of overkill. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-38060-A...id=1378417443&sr=8-2&keywords=lisle+axle+seal

Axle seal; http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-291-3...8417452&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=lisle+axle+seal

 

[Kyle]

good luck! when i got my 3 back from the dealer i noticed the right rear axle seal was leaking, got underneath it with some cleaner and cleaned all the oil and mud off and i got lucky the small leak sealed it self for now!

 

[digglesworth]

Thanks for the links... I guess I'm gonna give it a try after I see the doctor at the end of the month. Had a metal plate intalled to mend a snapped collar bone and the dang metal plate has snapped in half so there's no telling how long I'll be out... I appreciate all the help and should be able to get the hummer fixed up just as soon as I get fixed up...

 

[4speedfunk]

Given the source (your dealer)...you might want to take a closer look at the ABS sensor O-rings first. These are a fairly common leak-spot on the rear axle and they can be mistaken for something else because the goo can travel all over the ends of the tubes. NAPA makes some slightly larger o-rings, and you can pull your sensors off and replace the stock blue o-rings with some fatter ones that seal up better. Easy fix.

If it is truly a leaking rear seal...Pulling rear shafts on an H3 is a tad more involved than other 10-bolts. After you pull the pan, drain the fluid, pull the cross-pin, pull the c-clips...you'll discover something else. The axles don't simply slide out. You'll have to take a pry-bar and gently pry on the end of the shafts (from inside the carrier), to get them to break free. The reason is that GM "glues" the ABS sensor rings to the ends of the shafts, and you'll have to overcome the stickiness of trying to slide the shafts out from them. The rings will stay in the tubes (behind the seals), and you can slide your shafts right back into them, and the glue will sort of "re-stick" to the original location. The rear tone rings are more like collars...they are approx 2" wide and they have a rubber material bonded to the ID of them, that helps to grip the shaft. Also the shafts are tapered, and the ID of the rings is such that they get tight at the correct point on the shaft as you slide it in...pretty clever.

Long story short...you'll have to pry the shafts out. If you pry against the seals (outboard at the flanges)....you will destroy them. No big deal because thats what your are replacing in the first place. But if you are trying to pull the axles to do some diff work, and you want to save the seals...don't pry against them. Instead pry on the end of the shafts from inside the small window in the carrier. Its really tight inside there and you'll have to get creative with a socket or two...to push the axle all the way out of the carrier. By then...you should have slid the axle far enough that the ABS ring (and its glue) releases and this will allow you to pull them out by hand.

This description will make no sense at all until you take one apart. :roll: Sorry I did not take any pics when I did mine.

 

[digglesworth]

Thanks 4speed... That seems to add another level of difficulty to the project... Especially for me, whose never pulled this thing apart before. I'll have to check those abs o-rings when I can get under there... Are the NAPA versions a misc part that I have to find myself or are they a replacement NAPA offers for that application?

It really ticked me off when the dealer told me about these issues... Brakes I can understand... But is a leaking axle seal something that is easilly visible? Then it seems like he just kept adding stuff, like replacing diff fluid... He could've pointed out that replacing the seal would require opening the rear diff and losing that fluid so it would have to be refilled... Instead, he told me the tech checked the diff fluid (front and rear) and it was filthy dirty... I just replaced both diffs with Mobil1 around 5k miles ago...
Oh well... I guess that's their idea of upselling...

 

[4speedfunk]

The o-rings are not a specific part for the H3. Your NAPA dealer will probably have a plastic case that looks like a flat tackle box. Inside it there is a multitude of o-rings to choose from. I've also seen a similar assortment at Rural King and Tractor Supply Company. Just take an original one with you so you can pick one that is slightly fatter.

The seal swap sounds like a big deal but, its really only slightly messier than a normal axle. The lengthy explanation is just a way to describe why the axles don't come out as easy as a standard 10-bolt. You can easily do it in your driveway....but wait until your collar bone heals!

 

[digglesworth]

Great. Thanks. Alrock said to lube the shafts before sliding them back in... Will the tone rings be able to "re-seat" themselves or should I leave the dry?

 

[4speedfunk]

When I did mine...I also had a pair of brand new GM ABS rings standing-by, and they come out of the GM wrapper with gooey black glue already on them. They are designed to get tight as you slide the tapered shaft into them, and that alone is probably enough to hold them in place. All the same...I re-used my original rings, and installed the shafts dry, hoping the goo would re-stick to them. I figured the goo is supposed to be there but, I'm not sure its 100% necessary.

 

[digglesworth]

Those rings don't sound like theyd be cheap so I hope I can get away with using the old ones and hopin I can get lucky and have them re-seat themselves in the proper place. I just don't wanna have to keep digging deeper and deeper and take more and more stuff apart.

 

[4speedfunk]

Several guys (and gals) on here have done gear-swaps and diff rebuilds with no issues. You'll be fine reusing them.

 

[digglesworth]

Awesome. I appreciate the help. This will be the most extensive work I've done on my truck so far.

 

[Woodtick]

Great read. Looks like I will be doing this repair next week end. At least the oil that is leaking out is nice and clean. :huh: