Help with front end steering / suspension

[Synthetickiller]

If you park with your wheels turned almost full right, you can see if you rub the bar. Some do from the factory, some don't. Mine did only on the passenger side, slightly, with the military 37's i rub a tiny bit on full lock on the inner fender. I've replaced everything except for the pitman/idler, UCA & LCA. I debated aftermarket vs GM, and its hit and miss. I'm guessing it largely depends on the install, and the attention paid during the process & alignment. I'm following this thread with great interest.

Keep in mind that I'm not as knowledgeable as most in this thread. The blind is leading the near sighted.

Whenever the weather lets up, I'll go see if there's any rub with my 35s. I'll post some pics to see where everything is right now. I should be able to in a week when the rain lets up.

The stock wheels on the 09s were 20s (I have never seen one with OEM 17s). They had an offset of 18mm & I'll assume the backspacing is the same as the 17s, 5.5". The Ultra Colossus 17s I'm running are 12mm offset, 5.472", but are 9" wide vs 8.5" with the stock. I guess they work out to be about equal. I just don't know if that effects on rub. Only mentioning that as just something to consider. I'm probably overthinking it, honestly.

 

[Zach]

Keep in mind that I'm not as knowledgeable as most in this thread. The blind is leading the near sighted.

Whenever the weather lets up, I'll go see if there's any rub with my 35s. I'll post some pics to see where everything is right now. I should be able to in a week when the rain lets up.

The stock wheels on the 09s were 20s (I have never seen one with OEM 17s). They had an offset of 18mm & I'll assume the backspacing is the same as the 17s, 5.5". The Ultra Colossus 17s I'm running are 12mm offset, 5.472", but are 9" wide vs 8.5" with the stock. I guess they work out to be about equal. I just don't know if that effects on rub. Only mentioning that as just something to consider. I'm probably overthinking it, honestly.

Not all 08-09's came with 20's. I'm running 08-09 17" wheels. And as far as rub on sway bar, my 05 had it stock. Not a big deal at all, just don't turn full lock. Even if you do, just a slight rub

 

[twinmill28]

Don''t get too focused on rubbing at full lock on 37's and forget about what it does when the suspension is cycling if you're running off road. I've stuffed the hell out of my 37's here in the desert and if you're not used to it, the noise will scare the hell out of you--actually, even when you are used to it it will still get your attention!
If I turn too tightly on the street the old Noize Makerz will rub and let me know--no harm, just lets you know to back off a tad. You get used to it. The truck looks so RIGHT on 37's that you don't mind giving up that little bit of turning radius.

 

[Reaper550]

The truck looks so RIGHT on 37's that you don't mind giving up that little bit of turning radius.

^^This.

 

[Synthetickiller]

Not all 08-09's came with 20's. I'm running 08-09 17" wheels. And as far as rub on sway bar, my 05 had it stock. Not a big deal at all, just don't turn full lock. Even if you do, just a slight rub

Nice. I spent about 2 to 3 months looking for an 08/09 H2 & never saw one with 17s, other than aftermarket. That's good to know.

Don''t get too focused on rubbing at full lock on 37's and forget about what it does when the suspension is cycling if you're running off road. I've stuffed the hell out of my 37's here in the desert and if you're not used to it, the noise will scare the hell out of you--actually, even when you are used to it it will still get your attention!
If I turn too tightly on the street the old Noize Makerz will rub and let me know--no harm, just lets you know to back off a tad. You get used to it. The truck looks so RIGHT on 37's that you don't mind giving up that little bit of turning radius.

Isn't that the truth!

 

[kingamra]

Sorry to steal the post but I have a related question...

I just changed oil and did a pillar fix for leaks yesterday and found about 2 inch gap on my stabilizer links. .. the boots look worn to hell also...

Is there other suspension parts I should look at for wear and tear since the links are bad?

This looks like an easy swap ... 15 mm on top and bottom... Is this possible to do without hydraulic socket? All I have is a wrench and a socket (and now a busted right hand from playing yesterday)....

Recommended brands?

2007 h2 lux 100 k miles

Also, shamefully will add that I'm a n00b when it comes to repair... I'm stepping up from oil changes and spark plugs...

 

[twinmill28]

Pics would help, if you can get them to load. If I understand this correctly, you should have no problems using basic hand tools.

Even though I've got air tools I've always had a weird kink and love to use my wrenches, even on bigger fasteners like lug nuts, suspension components and dump trucks.

 

[Zach]

Sway bar links are fairly easy to replace. There are heavier duty ones you can buy. Bought mine from eBay, sorry, but forget who the seller was and brand.
At 100k, I would check the hubs, idler and pitman arm.

 

[kingamra]

That's the stabilizer link... I'm going to read up on pitman arm etc

Pic keeps rotating 90 counterclockwise... sorry...

 

[Big2dabank]

I would upgrade your sway bar end links to something like these... I ordered these a few years ago and they have worked well for me. These add an additional inch of height to the links and helps the sway bar clear the tie rods better. Oh and yes this is an easy job for hand tools.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-09-Humme...nd-Links-PR-/381369189501?hash=item58cb60047d

 

[Synthetickiller]

I'll most likely be doing the UCAs & Rare Tie Rods first. Mainly, I'm not doing everything due to cash flow. The H3 needs new tires & BFG KO2s in 315/75r16 will set me back almost $1000 when balanced & mounted. Add these two parts & were up to $1700 total.

I want to figure out what the problem is & that's the only nice part of doing everything piece meal.

Quick question for anyone who would know. Besides the UCAs & tie rods, are there any steering components that require alignments once they are replaced?
I'd rather only have to do an alignment once.

I would upgrade your sway bar end links to something like these... I ordered these a few years ago and they have worked well for me. These add an additional inch of height to the links and helps the sway bar clear the tie rods better. Oh and yes this is an easy job for hand tools.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-09-Humme...nd-Links-PR-/381369189501?hash=item58cb60047d

I saw these while looking at up front suspension parts. My Helwig swaybar came with end links, so I didn't bother.
I was surprised at the design on these. It looks like they are meant to tilt the end links or or something. Those'll be at the bottom. I'll look into them once my current ones get worn out.

 

[kingamra]

Ordered

 

[djras1]

2003 hummer h2 kryptonite lca will fit on our h2's as they are the same part numbers from gm for 2003 gmc 2500hd. Im not sure its worth 900 but i do have the kryptonite uppers tie rods centerlink and idler arm with gusset and
rare parts pitman. had an issue with the sways clearing the kryto centerlink so i took them off and yes i bought the extended ones still and the same issue

 

[Scarsman]

Quick question for anyone who would know. Besides the UCAs & tie rods, are there any steering components that require alignments once they are replaced?
I'd rather only have to do an alignment once.

Pretty much all steering parts in between your outer tie rod ends, plus control arms.

 

[Synthetickiller]

Thanks.
Looks like I'll be holding off a little bit so I can do it all at once. I'm really not interested in multiple alignments.

I wanted to mention, rare does make an idler arm gusset that fits. Someone confirmed it a little while ago, but I haven't had time to post it.

 

[Big2dabank]

I have a lifetime alignment deal and everytime bring it seems like there is a different tech working the alignment bay and they gawk at the steering and try to figure out what all I did. I usually get the same comment back everytime and that how they like easy it is to align. I kept thinking one of these days they are going to say that all these modifications are not covered by the lifetime alignment. lol.

 

[Synthetickiller]

I have a quick question, although it might be redundant.

I was comparing the Kryptonite & RareParts Idler arms.
I never plan on lifting the vehicle, so nothing larger than 37s will be put on it. Is the Kryptonite worth it from the perspective that it'll last longer or will the rareparts last just as long? $300 vs $140 is a pretty big difference, considering one is more than twice the price.

Thoughts?

I have a lifetime alignment deal and everytime bring it seems like there is a different tech working the alignment bay and they gawk at the steering and try to figure out what all I did. I usually get the same comment back everytime and that how they like easy it is to align. I kept thinking one of these days they are going to say that all these modifications are not covered by the lifetime alignment. lol.

That's something to consider.
I waiting till I get funds together before doing all of the upgrades at once. It's a large chunk of money. I also just don't want to deal with going in to get it aligned a lot. I just don't have the free time, lol.

 

[djras1]

I have a Firestone lifetime alignment. I do recommend doing it all at once center-link tie rods idler and pit-man. I did the work my self one part at a time and each time I had to take it back for another alignment. Before you take it for alignment make sure that you get the steering wheel as straight as possible by adjusting the tie rod length equally as much as you can i know one is more than the other but close. Firestone adjusted the tie rods and one was way longer than the other and put extra force on the ball joint and slightly bent it had to rma it with dmaxstore. Another problem i have had is the tech doesn't torque down the uca cam bolts properly and hitting a bump threw off the alignment. I also recommend a paint marker and mark the 4 alignment cams so if you wheel it and throw something off you can put it back with the marks and avoid another alignment.

 

[Synthetickiller]

I had some free time today, sitting in the ER (it's been a long day indeed) & came across this:
http://highrollerperformance.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=1

According to this thread, the highroller was the original & Kyrptonite makes a copy:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76...re-kryptonite-high-roller-ultimate-idler.html

The kicker is the price. $100 vs $300. This beats out rare parts by $60 as well.
Seems like I just saved $200.

 

[Synthetickiller]

Bought: HighRoller Idler Arm $112 shipped

Going to buy:
Idler Arm Support: SUPERSTEER (IDLER ARM SUPPORT BRACKET) $20
Pitman: Rare Parts RP20609 $125
UCA: Kryptonite UCA $460 (Unpainted)

The highroller, from what I've read, comes unpained. I opted to get the UCA unpainted since it's not going to cost more to get both parts powder coated.

Basically $900. I'm still on the fence about the tie rods. I've read bad things about each company.
Maybe just get the (Rareparts) DMAX XD Tie Rods? $260 is palatable. $370 for the kryptonite is a lot. Cognito is $400+.

If I go the cheapest of all 3, that's $1160 for everything. That's not bad.
I can do the timken hubs & other things later. That would be over $2k right there, so not cheap & hard to swing in a month.

 

[Scarsman]

What have you heard bad about the Kryptonite tie rods? Very happy with mine and lifetime unconditional warranty. About a year and a half after I bought mine they changed the inner end design, and they replaced both of my inner ends for free.

 

[Synthetickiller]

I've just come across at least one thread of each brand breaking. I know, I know, that's picky, but these are pretty expensive tie rods, all things considered.
The thread in question about the kryptonite model had it break on a 2WD truck after 12k miles.

I'll have think about it. On one hand, an unlimited lifetime warranty for $90 more, plus they adjust from either side (doubt this is really a selling point unless you do your own alignment). On the other hand, that's $90 I can put towards something else.

Unfortunately, getting opinions on these things is like asking what your favorite color is. People push what they buy & very few people have run both. Every thread on tie rods on chevy duramax forums have people praising both companies, saying both are excellent. You'll find a stray thread here & there complaining about a failure. They seem to be equal in that regard. Unfortunately, it'll most likely be a flip of the coin based on how I feel the day I order (within the coming week). There's just no real comparison between the two.

I just know I won't touch Moog or Cognito.

 

[Zach]

The early Dmax store tie rods were actually made by rare parts. What I am running. Not sure if it is the same now. And +1, I would stay away from Moog and Cognito. Had Cognitos, they were junk

 

[Synthetickiller]

The early Dmax store tie rods were actually made by rare parts. What I am running. Not sure if it is the same now. And +1, I would stay away from Moog and Cognito. Had Cognitos, they were junk

The only downsides I've seen from the new Dmax/Rareparts tie rods is the 3 year warranty & that they are so big, some people were having fitment issues with the swaybar end links on 2500s with cranked t-bars. It's not common, but I've seen pics. Doubt that's an issue for me or really anyone here.
Only making the point that there's always a negative to either tie rod. Both are beefy & should do the job. There's only mud here, so I doubt I'll see any sort of stress that you guys do who rock climb.

The old Dmax tie rods were smaller than the kryptonite tie rods, at the time, right? The new ones are 1.5" thick vs 1.125" thick for the Kryptonite.

How long have you had the Dmax Tie Rods?

 

[Zach]

Been running the smaller rare parts/Dmax for about I think four or five years. They recalled them about a month into them. Replaced them, and pretty sure you have seen the trails we have run here. No issues at all