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JKS Front Discos

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
786
Location
Illinois
Alright I know this topic has been addressed before, but I am not sure on the specifics. Does any know or have installed the JKS front swaybar discos on an H3 with a 4in Rancho lift? If so what model number? Also are they hard to install or just as easy as taking and impact wrench to the old links and sliding in the new ones? I do know that you should cycle the cycle the suspension and check/reroute the ABS lines.
 

Ben

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
Location
Winnipeg
I installed one, my rancho sway bar link snapped, since I couldn’t find replacement, and I have to put one on to pass the safety. So I bought JKS link, it doesn’t fit probably because of the bump on the LCA is in the way when u tighten the JKS bottom stud, but I somehow made it work by install the top stud first, and than put the jks link on , the bottom stud is tricky, I have to install loosely and force link to go on thaen lock it, after that I just tighten the bottom stud, it will be really tight and u won’t be able to remove quick link unless you do the reverse step. So far I didn’t have any problem, but I don’t think it’s a good idea.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,755
Location
Bellflower, CA
I installed the JKS discos on my Rancho lifted setup. They work good but I had 1 issue in Moab when they were still connected and during extreme flexing it popped a retainer pin out the sway bar made a loud bang. Because there is more play then stock there is a little bit more suspension noise. I tested it out using both setups and the JKS definitely the culprit for noise. JKS model 2001 and I ordered and extra set of pins for complete removal of the link since there is no good way to secure the sway bar out of the way.
20170225_134957.jpg
20170225_135029.jpg
 
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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
786
Location
Illinois
Thanks so much. One thing though, I just checked out the JKS Model 2001 and they look like this:

F73652856.jpg
Is this just a stock photo?
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,755
Location
Bellflower, CA
Yes, you don't use the top bracket. Look at my pic above and you will see them removed. The extra pin mounts I bought is so I can remove the complete link and no hanging parts on the trail. I did both sides just because.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
786
Location
Illinois
Yes, you don't use the top bracket. Look at my pic above and you will see them removed. The extra pin mounts I bought is so I can remove the complete link and no hanging parts on the trail. I did both sides just because.

D'oh! I didn't look the pic closely enough. Didn't realized that they came out. Did you do the rear sway bar? Or does removing that loose to much stability? (off-road of course)
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,755
Location
Bellflower, CA
I completely removed my rear. Had it off before Moab and highway speeds never noticed it and I was top heavy going 75, has been a year now. Now I forgot to connect the front leaving Moab and drove 5 miles before I had to pull over and reconnect it. LOTS of swaying. As of now I have no reason to reinstall the rear unless funds allow it, very low on my priority list.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
786
Location
Illinois
I completely removed my rear. Had it off before Moab and highway speeds never noticed it and I was top heavy going 75, has been a year now. Now I forgot to connect the front leaving Moab and drove 5 miles before I had to pull over and reconnect it. LOTS of swaying. As of now I have no reason to reinstall the rear unless funds allow it, very low on my priority list.

For real? I thought it was the opposite! Thanks so much!
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,228
Location
Tardville
My SAS/SOA is the opposite...rear bar makes a huge difference. I run a stock rear bar with Spohn disconnect links. These use Heims rather than bushings.
 
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