4speedfunk
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Your torsion issue is real common. It’s more likely due to the Rancho extension castings being flipped…and not due to “worn” t-bars. I have messed with quite a few of these, and although the Rancho castings say R and L right on them…they work better if you reverse them. This will clock the hex heads to the correct position.
Also the bars themselves can be installed backwards (front to rear) and also opposite (right to left). The bars have twist built into them so the hex shaped ends are clocked a few degrees from each other. Because of this, the index combinations are many. The Rancho extensions add another layer to the possible combinations. The final combination really doesn’t matter as long as the keys are sitting near horizontal when done. This is true for stock or Rancho suspension.
You need to index the bars so the keys sit level after you’re done. GM actually makes this easy…the bolts are sized to the correct length to just barely reach the keys at full droop. If you are threading an inch or two into the key before it gets tight…you’ve got it wrong. You’ll run out of travel at the key before you reach ride height.
You have to get the vehicle sitting very high on jackstands to get the IFS to full droop. Sometimes it helps to unbolt the shocks and have a buddy stand on the rotors to push the LCAs down all the way, to get the torsion bolts started into the keys. That’s the sweet spot!
Grease the threads and use a large c-clamp (not the bolts) to pull the keys into their final horizontal positions. Make all up-adjustments to ride height at full droop, then put the truck back on the ground and ease the torsion bolts to reach the desired ride height. Cranking the bolts with the weight of the vehicle on them will result in many repeat adjustments, and you’ll end up chasing your tail. Always set final ride height on the way down, and it will remain where you set it. If you overshoot…don’t simply crank the bolt. Instead, jack the truck up to relieve the pressure on the bars, tighten the bolts a few turns (at full droop), lower it back down, and loosen the bolts (in small increments) to achieve the height you want. Doing this will minimize popping and clunking and your ride height will stay where you set it. If the keys are sitting at extreme angles at ride height…or it seems you ran out of threads…you got it wrong. Tear it back apart and start flipping bars (or Rancho extensions) until you find the sweet spot.
You can buy aftermarket “two-piece” keys that allow you to change the index position of the hexes.
Although these work…on the H3 it’s often a band aid for the real problem (something is flipped). Try swapping the Rancho castings, as this is usually the fix.
Also the bars themselves can be installed backwards (front to rear) and also opposite (right to left). The bars have twist built into them so the hex shaped ends are clocked a few degrees from each other. Because of this, the index combinations are many. The Rancho extensions add another layer to the possible combinations. The final combination really doesn’t matter as long as the keys are sitting near horizontal when done. This is true for stock or Rancho suspension.
You need to index the bars so the keys sit level after you’re done. GM actually makes this easy…the bolts are sized to the correct length to just barely reach the keys at full droop. If you are threading an inch or two into the key before it gets tight…you’ve got it wrong. You’ll run out of travel at the key before you reach ride height.
You have to get the vehicle sitting very high on jackstands to get the IFS to full droop. Sometimes it helps to unbolt the shocks and have a buddy stand on the rotors to push the LCAs down all the way, to get the torsion bolts started into the keys. That’s the sweet spot!
Grease the threads and use a large c-clamp (not the bolts) to pull the keys into their final horizontal positions. Make all up-adjustments to ride height at full droop, then put the truck back on the ground and ease the torsion bolts to reach the desired ride height. Cranking the bolts with the weight of the vehicle on them will result in many repeat adjustments, and you’ll end up chasing your tail. Always set final ride height on the way down, and it will remain where you set it. If you overshoot…don’t simply crank the bolt. Instead, jack the truck up to relieve the pressure on the bars, tighten the bolts a few turns (at full droop), lower it back down, and loosen the bolts (in small increments) to achieve the height you want. Doing this will minimize popping and clunking and your ride height will stay where you set it. If the keys are sitting at extreme angles at ride height…or it seems you ran out of threads…you got it wrong. Tear it back apart and start flipping bars (or Rancho extensions) until you find the sweet spot.
You can buy aftermarket “two-piece” keys that allow you to change the index position of the hexes.
Although these work…on the H3 it’s often a band aid for the real problem (something is flipped). Try swapping the Rancho castings, as this is usually the fix.
