Motor mount discussion

[CaseyS]

This got off topic in another thread so continuing the discussion here.

Two options. Make a whole new mount to match the footprint. Or as an alternative, why not just fab a poly/steel insert to fit inside the circular portion of the existing mount. You could swap bad mounts on a core exchange. Burn out the bad rubber and weld in the prefab piece. Could actually be a simple piece out of 3" round steel stock.

4speed, pm if you want some ideas. I have already modified my perches and its pretty easy. You could probably fab a sleeve for the 1/2" bolt to retain the factory hardware. The poly kit was only like $18 for both sides and I have an extra laying around because I ordered two.

http://alrock.smugmug.com/Cars/Leaf-Springs-030214/i-Zh2bgww/0/L/Motor Mount (1)-L.jpg

 

[CaseyS]

You can also google "filled motor mounts" and fill your existing mounts with urethane. I've done this before on another vehicle and I worked pretty good. If your mounts are shot as bad as mine were, i do know if would do it to a torn mount

 

[08H3]

Thanks for the tip on the filled mounts, Casey. Never heard or it or considered the method. I have a mount on another car that is shot. The mount is on top of the engine, easy to get to, and this should work great.

 

[4speedfunk]

I think the poly/steel insert is the way to go. However the mount in that photo looks really goofy...the motor mount bushing is turned 90-degrees from its intended load (in a biscuit orientation). Given that tidbit...I think the proper way to isolate a motor (or any vibrating item), is to put the load to the side of a barrel & shell type bushing. This biscuit type bushing is the same thing GM uses on the IFS diff bushings and it clearly doesn't seem to hold up very well.

 

[06 H3]

I may try to filled method. I need to change mine and I can report how it works out

 

[4speedfunk]

Timeout. Casey I got your PM....now that I see the install diagram, I can see that these do in fact...sit in there sideways. I thought that first photo you posted was looking down at the motor mount from the top. Its not. So the bushing does sit sideways, like its supposed to.

Hmmmmm...a re-sleeve with new poly is sounding better. Piece of cake actually.

 

[06 H3]

http://honda-tech.com/drag-racing-36/window-weld-motor-mounts-672359/

[video=youtube;MYWSBXa9vQ4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYWSBXa9vQ4[/video]

There is some reviews on this stuff on the link I provided and a DIY video. I googled it and all I typed in was window weld and in the search bar was window weld motor mounts so it must be common.

I think I will try this. Its cheap and easy and the rubber is still in tact. Another reason I like this method is that I remember recon's post from many moons ago and he stated in his days of wheeling through all those crazy safari's poly would eventually fail. Rubber would wear out but it would last longer and the chances of pure failure was less. With this method I still have the OEM rubber mounts and it will have the support of poly on the outside. To me it seems like a happy medium.

Someone did mention the poly stuff at home depot was less stiff then the 3M window weld (maybe a stiffer poly) I may go with the 3M for more stiffness. Cheap and easy. I ordered my motor mounts through Zach. He had better prices then autozone. I will get them tuesday. I will put my header in tonight or tomorrow and deal with the motor mounts when I get em tuesday. They should last a few days on bad mounts. Lets face it, the OEM one lasted 10 years and im sure my motor mounts have been progressively getting worse for atleast a few years so I think it was the constant abuse. Also the OEM header is pressed in to the cat vs. welded. Either way I think the window weld is what I will try. I wont be able to tell a difference between stock and window weld because mine are already trashed but many people seem to tell a difference even with relatively new mounts.

 

[CaseyS]

If you use the pourable two part urethane, you can get it in varying durometers if you look around. I think I had used a 70 or 75 when I did mine.

Do you plan on filling the old mounts or the new ones?

 

[Woodtick]

I wouldn't advise it but???? The billy way to do it around these parts is to use a NHL hockey puck. A permanent fix for beaters and a good temp for a higher end build,while a less billy way is being made. It's a backward way of doing it but works well. Must use a good puck. You wouldn't want to cut corners. Lol I will be doing this to my sons 95 F150 next weekend.

 

[06 H3]

If you use the pourable two part urethane, you can get it in varying durometers if you look around. I think I had used a 70 or 75 when I did mine.

Do you plan on filling the old mounts or the new ones?

Probably the new ones

 

[06 H3]

I put some poly into the new oem mounts. They are a ****in bitch to install. Thought it was optional on removing the headers. Nope it was mandatory so out came the headers again after I just replaced it less then a week ago!!!!!!!!