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New Plugs, any tips on installing them
- Thread starter sinstr
- Start date
D
Dennis
Guest
I just did mine recently and so did a few others as well, so you may get a couple of versions of how to..
Tools and supplies:
* 5/8" deep socket w/an 8" extension (10" is too long for #5 plug, the firewall gets in the way)
* 9mm socket ( I used a 1/4" drive with a 6" extension)
* Anti-seize compound for Plug Threads
* Dialectric grease for upper part of plug
* Plug gap; .042"
First remove the air filter chamber and box from Throttle body.
Starting with #1 Plug: (This one is the most difficult IMO)
Remove Electrical Connector from the Coil pack: by pulling out on the little gray clip that locks the connector to the coil pack connector..then pry the stop catch up to pull the clip off...then squeeze the connector plug and pull it off the coil pack connector.
Now unsnap the top cover off of the cable/wire tray that runs just over the #1 coil pack on the front of the valve cover which is hiding the 9mm hold down bolt for the coil pack, once you unsnap that top cover, the tray is flexable enough to pull out of the way a little to work down to the 9mm bolt.
Undo the 9mm bolt until it is no longer screwed into the head, the bolt will not come out all the way, now just pull up on it and the coil pack will pop loose from the plug below with a "puck" sound.
Use a shop-vac and suck out any dirt, dust or debris that maybe down in the spark plug hole (do this before you remove the plug.) (Side note: if you're anal like me, you will also pre-clean the whole top of the valve cover area off first, so no dirt and sh!t can fall down in the plug holes)
Take a piece or a small strip of duct tape and put in the 5/8" socket, this will help hold/wedge the plug in the socket.
Remove the old plug and inspect for any oil fouling.
Gap your new plug to .042" and then apply a small amount of anti-seize to the plug threads and then apply a small amount of dialectric grease to the upper part of the plug's porcelain, this seals the plug boot to the plug and making it moisture tight.
By Hand, thread in the new plug using the socket and extension, making sure you don't cross thread it..it will thread in real easy...Tighten it down with about 25-30 lbft of torque. These plugs are gasketless, so there is no crush washer for sealing.
Reinstall the coil pack, it will self center and go on right over the plug, thread in the 9mm hold down bolt and snug tighten.
Reconnect the electrical plug connector and re-insert that little gray clip lock thingy and push all the way down to lock it in place.
Have fun
Tools and supplies:
* 5/8" deep socket w/an 8" extension (10" is too long for #5 plug, the firewall gets in the way)
* 9mm socket ( I used a 1/4" drive with a 6" extension)
* Anti-seize compound for Plug Threads
* Dialectric grease for upper part of plug
* Plug gap; .042"
First remove the air filter chamber and box from Throttle body.
Starting with #1 Plug: (This one is the most difficult IMO)
Remove Electrical Connector from the Coil pack: by pulling out on the little gray clip that locks the connector to the coil pack connector..then pry the stop catch up to pull the clip off...then squeeze the connector plug and pull it off the coil pack connector.
Now unsnap the top cover off of the cable/wire tray that runs just over the #1 coil pack on the front of the valve cover which is hiding the 9mm hold down bolt for the coil pack, once you unsnap that top cover, the tray is flexable enough to pull out of the way a little to work down to the 9mm bolt.
Undo the 9mm bolt until it is no longer screwed into the head, the bolt will not come out all the way, now just pull up on it and the coil pack will pop loose from the plug below with a "puck" sound.
Use a shop-vac and suck out any dirt, dust or debris that maybe down in the spark plug hole (do this before you remove the plug.) (Side note: if you're anal like me, you will also pre-clean the whole top of the valve cover area off first, so no dirt and sh!t can fall down in the plug holes)
Take a piece or a small strip of duct tape and put in the 5/8" socket, this will help hold/wedge the plug in the socket.
Remove the old plug and inspect for any oil fouling.
Gap your new plug to .042" and then apply a small amount of anti-seize to the plug threads and then apply a small amount of dialectric grease to the upper part of the plug's porcelain, this seals the plug boot to the plug and making it moisture tight.
By Hand, thread in the new plug using the socket and extension, making sure you don't cross thread it..it will thread in real easy...Tighten it down with about 25-30 lbft of torque. These plugs are gasketless, so there is no crush washer for sealing.
Reinstall the coil pack, it will self center and go on right over the plug, thread in the 9mm hold down bolt and snug tighten.
Reconnect the electrical plug connector and re-insert that little gray clip lock thingy and push all the way down to lock it in place.
Repeat with remaining 4 cylinders.
Have fun
Last edited by a moderator:
- Messages
- 10,677
- Location
- Scottsdale
:agree:
FYI, I used a spark plug socket that has the built in rubber to help hold the socket in place as you install it. I found that the rubber would hold it too well and my extension would separate from the socket before the plug would, so I only put the plug in halfway so it was only being lightly held by the socket.
FYI, I used a spark plug socket that has the built in rubber to help hold the socket in place as you install it. I found that the rubber would hold it too well and my extension would separate from the socket before the plug would, so I only put the plug in halfway so it was only being lightly held by the socket.
algin5109
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 152
- Location
- Richland N.J.
Same here that rubber held to good. #1 was def the worst with that cable tray and stupid little plastic cam type bolts. Pretty easy other than that