06 H3
a.k.a. "The Jackal"
- Messages
- 9,506
- Location
- Meridian, ID
I rebuilt my eaton e locker before the rubicon. First e locker lasted me years but with the 37s its just not lasting. Ran the rubicon, worked like a charm, ran the beginning of fordyce worked like a charm, also worked like a charm on gold mtn as well as drinkwater flats which is local to me but heard a few pops. I went up for a last minute gorman camping/wheeling trip. I am climbing up the big rock hill in the middle of the 4x4 area. Its gotten worse then ive seen it in probably in forever. Locked front and rear and as I am climbing up a rock DING, DING. E locker stopped working. My buddies all agree it wasnt like I was at redline just spinning and it grabbed, I literally was crawling and it happened without abusing it. I was able to still make it up without the rear locker but the side gear and pins are toast after 5 runs and I just rebuild the locker back in June.
So I will not be using the rear locker again, I will use something else or a different axle. These are my options...
If I keep the 10 bolt, its been a great axle, never broke a R&P, never broke a shaft just these eaton e locker pins.
Cost effective to expensive top to bottom
-Grab my old open carrier from the 10 bolt and put a lunchbox auto locker in it.
-buy an automatic detroit locker
-get an OX locker, have one in the front and has never skipped a beat...
-ARB air locker
OX and ARB are most expensive but they are selectable lockers which is nice but I also want to try an auto locker and some think it may cause havoc on the ABS/traction control but who knows until someone tries it out.
Option 2 14 bolt
-old school 14 bolt
with this I would need a disc brake conversion kit w/ ebrake, a 67in WMS 14 bolt, shave kit or DIY shave for more clearance at the pumpkin, OEM GM tone rings from Zach, modify the tone rings and sensors to make them work, 6 lug hubs from spyntec OR 8x6.5 to 6x5.5 wheel adapters.
New school 14 bolt also known as the AAM 14 bolt
-already has disk brakes and a GOOD parking brake, need 8x6.5 to 6x5.5 adapters, OEM tone rings and modification to the housing to make it work. then Shave the pumpkin
So whats the consensus here? I have only seen 2 rear axle swaps done. Recon's dynatrac prorock 60 which retained electronics and was the pricest option and dana 60 H3 who did a 14 bolt but did not attempt to retain the ABS, it would be nice to have a cheaper DIY option that retains the electronics
Lastly, I do know about "crash locking" the eaton e locker and unforunately in my situation when it popped I had it already locked, I sheered the pins shortly after 37s and did it again 5 runs later. In muddy conditions I am sure the locker will last on 37s but in the rocks where there is no give and a lot of load it seems as if 35s is the max I would go on this locker. Mine still locks up but in low load situations once a lot of load is put on the rear end the locker slips and unlocks.
So I will not be using the rear locker again, I will use something else or a different axle. These are my options...
If I keep the 10 bolt, its been a great axle, never broke a R&P, never broke a shaft just these eaton e locker pins.
Cost effective to expensive top to bottom
-Grab my old open carrier from the 10 bolt and put a lunchbox auto locker in it.
-buy an automatic detroit locker
-get an OX locker, have one in the front and has never skipped a beat...
-ARB air locker
OX and ARB are most expensive but they are selectable lockers which is nice but I also want to try an auto locker and some think it may cause havoc on the ABS/traction control but who knows until someone tries it out.
Option 2 14 bolt
-old school 14 bolt
with this I would need a disc brake conversion kit w/ ebrake, a 67in WMS 14 bolt, shave kit or DIY shave for more clearance at the pumpkin, OEM GM tone rings from Zach, modify the tone rings and sensors to make them work, 6 lug hubs from spyntec OR 8x6.5 to 6x5.5 wheel adapters.
New school 14 bolt also known as the AAM 14 bolt
-already has disk brakes and a GOOD parking brake, need 8x6.5 to 6x5.5 adapters, OEM tone rings and modification to the housing to make it work. then Shave the pumpkin
So whats the consensus here? I have only seen 2 rear axle swaps done. Recon's dynatrac prorock 60 which retained electronics and was the pricest option and dana 60 H3 who did a 14 bolt but did not attempt to retain the ABS, it would be nice to have a cheaper DIY option that retains the electronics
Lastly, I do know about "crash locking" the eaton e locker and unforunately in my situation when it popped I had it already locked, I sheered the pins shortly after 37s and did it again 5 runs later. In muddy conditions I am sure the locker will last on 37s but in the rocks where there is no give and a lot of load it seems as if 35s is the max I would go on this locker. Mine still locks up but in low load situations once a lot of load is put on the rear end the locker slips and unlocks.
