H3 Repair advise needed

[08H3I5]

So since it started getting cold last fall I have noticed a popping in the front end of my 08H3. Well I know it's close to needing shocks on all 4 from the tire wear, so today I decided to inspect further since I'm taking a few hundred mile trip this week.

What I found was:
1 the crossmember bushing on the front axle has seen better days
2 the bushings on the torsion bars/ lower control arms are showing signs of wear.... Cracking and mushrooming
3 the outer axle seal on the drivers side is leaking

Everything else looks good from what I visually see, I need to pull the drive shafts for the u joints and check them in depth since I feel a slight vibration at highway speeds. I have been in a garage all my life and I'm good with a wrench so I'm not scared of getting dirty. What I need to know is there anything special I need to do for these repairs?

The crossmember bushing / axle bushing is going to have to wait a little while longer due to shortage of funds. But are the parts available for the T-bar bushings? And does the bar run threw the rear control arm mounting? Also since I am fond of over doing things when I have them apart where can I get a set of alpha t bars at?

 

[alrock]

By torsion bar bushings I assume you mean the lower control arm bushings - and yes, those are available. They are a bit of a PITA to press in and out and it's a lot easier if you also drop the diff. You'd have to pull the CV axles anyway and after that it's only three bolts and the u-joint clips. Having the diff out of the way gives you a lot more clearance.

You will need to remove the torsion bars to remove the lower control arm. Put a bit of lube on the torsion bar bolt, back it out, pop up the key and the torsion bar will slide right out.

Zach works at a dealership and can help you with the parts. You'll need both LCA bushings and while you're there you might as well press out the ball joint too. I like the AC Delco one as it has a zerk fitting; OEM does not. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBVKXW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Do the ball joint while the LCA is attached to the truck. Makes it easier as you don't have to spend energy holding the LCA in place too.

Zach can also get you the alpha torsion bars. They run about $90-$100 each, I think, before shipping.

To press out the bushing and ball joints, you need at a minimum a ball joint press like you can rent at an auto parts store. We found it a bit easier to also have an adapter kit with us. We needed more options than came with the store kit, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Master-...=1395110043&sr=1-17&keywords=ball+joint+press

Before you press out the bushings, take note on where the bushings are positioned in relation to the LCA. You want to instal the new ones with the same amount of reveal on the left and right to keep the alignment the same and to ensure the LCA fits back into the frame. I would recommend waiting until the torsion bars are reinserted and the truck is on the ground to fully tighten the bolts for the bushings to avoid torquing the bushings in the incorrect position.

No special tools other than the aforementioned ball joint and bunches of adapters, 35mm hub socket, 1 1/16 socket for torsion bars. Pry bars to get LCA out; BFH to get it back in.

Might as well replace both axle seals at that time too.

 

[08H3I5]

By torsion bar bushings I assume you mean the lower control arm bushings - and yes, those are available. They are a bit of a PITA to press in and out and it's a lot easier if you also drop the diff. You'd have to pull the CV axles anyway and after that it's only three bolts and the u-joint clips. Having the diff out of the way gives you a lot more clearance.

You will need to remove the torsion bars to remove the lower control arm. Put a bit of lube on the torsion bar bolt, back it out, pop up the key and the torsion bar will slide right out.

Zach works at a dealership and can help you with the parts. You'll need both LCA bushings and while you're there you might as well press out the ball joint too. I like the AC Delco one as it has a zerk fitting; OEM does not. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBVKXW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Do the ball joint while the LCA is attached to the truck. Makes it easier as you don't have to spend energy holding the LCA in place too.

Zach can also get you the alpha torsion bars. They run about $90-$100 each, I think, before shipping.

To press out the bushing and ball joints, you need at a minimum a ball joint press like you can rent at an auto parts store. We found it a bit easier to also have an adapter kit with us. We needed more options than came with the store kit, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Master-...=1395110043&sr=1-17&keywords=ball+joint+press

Before you press out the bushings, take note on where the bushings are positioned in relation to the LCA. You want to instal the new ones with the same amount of reveal on the left and right to keep the alignment the same and to ensure the LCA fits back into the frame. I would recommend waiting until the torsion bars are reinserted and the truck is on the ground to fully tighten the bolts for the bushings to avoid torquing the bushings in the incorrect position.

No special tools other than the aforementioned ball joint and bunches of adapters, 35mm hub socket, 1 1/16 socket for torsion bars. Pry bars to get LCA out; BFH to get it back in.

Might as well replace both axle seals at that time too.

Thanks for the info, looks like I need to get a quote from Zach and see what I have left in tax money and start saving. I have the tools already I think, including the ball joint press kit and a big ass snap on 1/2" drive ratchet to use with it lol. Being a little guy leverage helps.