Rigid Industries LED lighting

[cgalpha08]

Portager,

I had the real wheels light bar and mine was not curved as shown in the pic, it is straight across the front, idk why its shown that way.

I would go with something else that's stronger, i personally felt that it was weak and not up to my expectations. Check out ********, they have a couple of led light bars that run the width of the 3, i actually think that they may be from ********.

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[Timgco]

I'll measure the rails on my T when I get home tonight. Unless you want to make me a great deal on a Gobi stealth with the front vertical bars left out![/QUOTE]

I can set it up like JR3T's in the front. easy to do.

 

[alrock]

FYI, cgalpha's post was edited as this is a Sponsor thread vs. a general discussion thread and of course the goal is to discuss and promote the sponsor's product. Comparison products should be discussed in other parts of the forum, like the H3 section, H2 section, etc.

 

[JGBB04]

I got my 20" Rigid from Tim mounted up on the brush guard today, all can say is wow. I took some pics but I guess my night photog skills are not what I thought or the Captn might have come into play so yall will have to wait on pics but even 1 hour before sun set you could see it reflecting off a stop sign 740ft away.

 

[Portager]

Thanks JGBB04: Since the 40" SR is comparable to the 30" E-series, I think it will provide plenty of light for me.

Tim: I like the Yakima cross bar approach. I'd get three and put one on the end of the SlantBack to support the extension ladder with some sort of spacer. I'd like to mount the light bar under the cross bar to help protect it from brush and so that I could still load cargo on top of the cross bar without removing the light, but I think that would be pretty tight.

I measured the rail to rail spacing at 47 & 5/8". Also, the rails starts ~16" behind the windshield and ~4" behind the front edge of the sun roof. So if the light bar was at the front of the rail it would be above the sun roof, which is less than ideal in my mind. The Real Wheels bar is starting to look better. Maybe since the LED light bar is only 6.5 lbs the Real Wheels bar would be strong enough?

I also looked at the line of sight assuming the cross bar is at the front of the rail. The light would need to be 5" above the roof to see the edge of the hood. So, in other words, if the light is less than 5" high, the shadow of the roof will cover the will front hood (that’s a good thing). However, if the light is much lower than 5" the shadow will fall if front of the truck and create a blind spot (bad thing). Since the Yakima cross bars will be 4" high relative to the rails, the center of the light should be very close to 5" high if it were mounted on top of the cross bar. In front or below the cross bar would be too low. The ideal would be to mount the light bar further forward and lower than 4” so you could still use the cross bars for long cargo.

 

[Timgco]

I like the idea of the lightbar mounting further towards the windhsield. too far up, you get glare off the windhsield and hood, too far back you get shadow off the roofline. When I had that 50" mounted in front of the GOBI on the SUT, it was perfect. no glare, no shadow (except immediately in front of the bumper). I had that custom bar in there and that filled it all in and gave more width to the lighted area as well.

The RealWheels lightbar is just shy of $700. It is PC'd stainless which is nice. I have used/ sold the RW products and have not had one issue. Fitment and quality has always been great! The lightbar mount is pricey for what it is imho. For a little more, you can have a full gobi and have the bar protected by the rack...along with extra cargo capacity. We have not mounted an SR series Rigid into the H3 Stealth rack yet. It will sit lower in the rack as the mounting hardware has a more lowprofile design vs the E sereis fills the front height in. ...just something else to consider.

 

[Portager]

I agree the RW light bar is pricey and the Gobi would be a better value. It would look better too! Also, I don't think the RW bar is compatible with the H3T. Everywhere I find it listed it says it fits the H3 but nowhere does it say it fits the H3T.

I'm thinking about a custom mounting bracket. The design in my head would be NC machined from a 1" thick aluminum plate in an "L" shape about 10" by 4" with a 1"x1" cross section. Each "L" bracket would mount to the front of the rails with tentatively ~1" tall spacer angled on the bottom to match the tilt of the rails plus a rubber isolation pad. The front end of the "L" brackets would have a tab to attach directly to the SR-40 light bar, so the center of the light bar would be about 1.5" above the roof on the edges and ~0.75" (?) in the center. The bottom side would have a grove machined in to reduce weight and to hide the wires. Weight should be less than 1.3 lbs each. I'll talk to some structural engineers at my work, but I think the 1"x1" cross section could support the weight of the SR-40 light bar despite the double cantilever. I think OMF performance could make the brackets and the cost should be less than my rock rings, which were $150 each plus a onetime programming charge of $150.

 

[JGBB04]

Here's a little more info on mine. They are pricey but after comparing them to other makes it was an easy choice & as usual dealing w/ Tim was great. The combo beam gives you flood light on the first 4 of each side then the remaining 32 are spots. I used their U cradle to mount it on the brush guard, I needed to drill 2 holes as the slots in it did not quite reach far enough to line up w/ the tabs on my brushguard. They come w/ a nice wire harness, plenty left over under the hood & w/ the relay mounted on the firewall near the E brake cable it's long enough to reach the center console. The wires were connected backwards from how their instructions were written but it was an easy fix. Until I figure out my other lighting/switch choices I'm going to use one of the factory offroad light switches so I don't add any extra holes in the dash. Brightness was great, better than high beams or low beam & fogs, w/ good usable light in the 600-700ft range. Like I mentioned my night photos came out awful so I need to re-shoot those, maybe wait till after I take the pics to break into the Captn just in case. After seeing all the bug splatter on the grille I think I'll be adding some of their covers to the shopping list. & my power plug will be mounted to the bottom of the cradle.

 

[Timgco]

That sits perfect in there!!!! you can 3M clearbra those lenses too....if you don;t want covers..or do both. lol.

Here's a little more info on mine. They are pricey but after comparing them to other makes it was an easy choice & as usual dealing w/ Tim was great. The combo beam gives you flood light on the first 4 of each side then the remaining 32 are spots. I used their U cradle to mount it on the brush guard, I needed to drill 2 holes as the slots in it did not quite reach far enough to line up w/ the tabs on my brushguard. They come w/ a nice wire harness, plenty left over under the hood & w/ the relay mounted on the firewall near the E brake cable it's long enough to reach the center console. The wires were connected backwards from how their instructions were written but it was an easy fix. Until I figure out my other lighting/switch choices I'm going to use one of the factory offroad light switches so I don't add any extra holes in the dash. Brightness was great, better than high beams or low beam & fogs, w/ good usable light in the 600-700ft range. Like I mentioned my night photos came out awful so I need to re-shoot those, maybe wait till after I take the pics to break into the Captn just in case. After seeing all the bug splatter on the grille I think I'll be adding some of their covers to the shopping list. & my power plug will be mounted to the bottom of the cradle.

 

[alrock]

JBGG04 that light looks great!

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[HUMMER INVESTMENTS]

:agree: Expedition Hardware sells great products! Looks great JBGG04!

 

[sinstr]

Looks great James. I may come borrow it this weekend as Im passing thru !! lol

 

[Portager]

Looks great James. Nice job!

 

[JGBB04]

Ok here's some night shots still a little blurry guess I should have turned the truck off. These were at about 300ft from the trees.

　


Just the fog lights

　


Low beam & fog lights

　


High beams

　


Rigid only

　


Rigid w/ fogs

　


Rigid w/ fogs & low beam

　


Rigid w/ high beam

　


This was the stop sign at 740ft

　


& this one was about 590ft untill you coudn't really see trees any more

 

[Portager]

The light output from your RI Light Bar looks great! Makes me more confident that the SR-40 will be adequate for my needs.

Taking photo's in low light conditions like these, the camera extends the integration time to compensate for the low light level, and it becomes very sensitive to jitter. You either need to have a camera with image stabilization or put the camera on a tripod. I recommend a Canon with image stabilization because Canon uses a variable prism to optically compensate for jitter. Setting the camera on the dash with the engine off might help, but you have to press the button very carefully. Using the time delay function if you have it helps a lot because you aren’t touching the camera when it takes the picture.

 

[JGBB04]

Taking photo's in low light conditions like these, the camera extends the integration time to compensate for the low light level, and it becomes very sensitive to jitter. You either need to have a camera with image stabilization or put the camera on a tripod. I recommend a Canon with image stabilization because Canon uses a variable prism to optically compensate for jitter. Setting the camera on the dash with the engine off might help, but you have to press the button very carefully. Using the time delay function if you have it helps a lot because you aren’t touching the camera when it takes the picture.

Thanks, I figured that out a little bit tonight. I was getting pissed at first as the first couple I took were coming out the same as last night, was about to go in the house & get the Captn out. Then I finally started to hear the shutter clicking several seconds after I let go of the button. I'm not that into photography so I just have a couple of simple digital Kodak cameras, keep 1 in the T & 1 at work. I do have a cheap tripod some where though I'll have find it & try again.

 

[Timgco]

Thanks, I figured that out a little bit tonight. I was getting pissed at first as the first couple I took were coming out the same as last night, was about to go in the house & get the Captn out. Then I finally started to hear the shutter clicking several seconds after I let go of the button. I'm not that into photography so I just have a couple of simple digital Kodak cameras, keep 1 in the T & 1 at work. I do have a cheap tripod some where though I'll have find it & try again.

The pics turned out good. Having the map in line to show distance is helpful also. Thank you!

lol, use the GoPro suction cup mount on your hood. that should stabilize it.

Taking those at night is tough to do. I have a little Stylus 850SW and have had issues trying to get a "real world" shot of the Rigid's at night. The pics would capture a "hot spot" that was not there.

 

[06 H3]

God damn those suckers are bright!

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[cgalpha08]

Maybe its the pics, but can you comment on the width of the spread from the lights, because o looked like they didnt go out wide that much, thanks.

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[JGBB04]

The pics turned out good. Having the map in line to show distance is helpful also. Thank you!

lol, use the GoPro suction cup mount on your hood. that should stabilize it.

Taking those at night is tough to do. I have a little Stylus 850SW and have had issues trying to get a "real world" shot of the Rigid's at night. The pics would capture a "hot spot" that was not there.

Thanks, I do need to try the Gopro out w/ it last time I did a night video the gopro didn't pick up much. Also feel free to use any of the pics if you want to.

 

[JGBB04]

Maybe its the pics, but can you comment on the width of the spread from the lights, because o looked like they didnt go out wide that much, thanks.

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Good question didn't really think to measure that so I guess I got some more testing to do (Expedition Hardware is gonna have to start stocking Capt Morgan:giggle. It is narrower than the regular lights which you can see in the pics but I'll get some numbers. I really liked it w/ the low & fogs on, they gave good side coverage & the Rigid took care of the long range. Also should add my lights are all stock bulbs. & I'll get some shots of my work truck which has 2 generic 55watt offroad lights on it

 

[Timgco]

(Expedition Hardware is gonna have to start stocking Capt Morgan:giggle.

What do you mean start? :wink:

 

[JGBB04]

ok here's one to show beam width better. Just the Rigid from the bumper the blue line is appx 110ft, yellow 440 to the tall tree & red is appx 50 across.

 

[JGBB04]

What do you mean start? :wink:

well then you can start sending that w/ a sticker on it as swag instead of just stickers w/ my orders from now on

 

[Timgco]

Now that pic looks perfect! what's the secret there?

ok here's one to show beam width better. Just the Rigid from the bumper the blue line is appx 110ft, yellow 440 to the tall tree & red is appx 50 across.