silly rookie questions

[nj3talpha]

So I finally bought some tires (285/75 bridgestone dueler A/Ts). But I have a few questions
1) I also bought 1/2" extended bumpstops. Do I need to buy those bilstein leveling shocks
2) Will I notice any lack in power? I have an LUX/ALPHA
3) I know that a 285/75 tire "revolves" less per mile than a 265/75 tire....Is this a bad thing?
4) Is it worth to have someone use a GM/Tech II to calibrate speedo, would cost $85 to do so...

Thanks

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

1) only if you crank your torsion bars up (that means, there's two bolts that, when tightened, effectively lift the front end of your h3)
2) yes - see below
3) 5% fewer revolutions per mile
4) your speedometer will read 5% slower than actual speed. With that said, as the tire wears, you'll start at 6% off, then as it's about done it'll be about 4% off. That means that at 60 mph indicated, you'll actually be traveling at 63 mph... yes, you should get it recalibrated - or do it yourself with HP Tuners (the expensive way).

 

[Steve #1]

1) No, you don't NEED the shocks any more than you NEED the extended bumpstops. Not to imply that there isn't any merit in doing either but neither is required.
2) Marginal. You may notice it feels a little different at first. It's even less of an issue with an Alpha.
3) Bad? No, but something to be aware of. Your indicated speed will be off a bit. If you are concerned about strict speed enforcement, use a GPS and get an idea how much the speed is off at the different speeds you typically travel.
4) No, just keep it in the back of your mind that the speedo is off a bit. On the up side, if you are under warranty, you'll few a few extra miles out of it.

 

[backcountryislife]

there's nothin to be gained by running the bilsteins aside from being able to top out the suspension to metal on metal. They're a nice shock, but IMO the Hunner trick of adding a nut to the top of the stock shock is a better one to get the "travel" without going too far. I'd stick with stock shocks if I were to do it again, the top out bumpstop in the shock is there for a reason, gaining another 1/2" isn't worth hammering on the suspension I don't feel.

 

[f5moab]

285 is a stock size for adventure series H3s; you probably will not notice a thing in power. And speedo...they are not that accurate from the factory anyway; mine at 75 is off by three miles and I'm running stock 285 size tires.
You do not need the bumpstops unless you are cranking the torsion bars and raising the front end.

And I totally agree with backcountry, the stock Hummer shocks are as good as the bilsteins and even if you crank the front end, you don't need to do a thing. My front end's been cranked for four years and I'm still running the stock front shocks. They do need replacement now with 55K miles, but if I replace them, I will replace them with factory.

 

[08H3]

Just to add a third voice, I also agree with backcountry and f5. I had Bilsteins for about 90,000 miles until one of them ultimately blew. I put the OEM shocks back on. No difference, even cranked.

 

[ArtHummer]

2) Will I notice any lack in power? I have an LUX/ALPHA

Do you have an ALPHA? Is it a v8?...
I thought ALPHA comes with 285/75 standard.

 

[f5moab]

Do you have an ALPHA? Is it a v8?...
I thought ALPHA comes with 285/75 standard.

I thought they did too, but it might have been just like on the non-alphas, off-road package (adventure series) got the 285 tires.

 

[amrg]

Ive added a 1/2" nut in my truck, its actually 11 mm, and for some reason it lets the metal on metal contact. But as everyone said, no need for the Bilsteins, and ur gona notice a small decrease in acceleration from ur original tires. As for calibration, it depends. My speedo was off stock, when I went to 35s, my car reads 62 when Im actually driving at 63!

 

[humvee]

1) Level the truck and use the bump-stops.
2) In an ALPHA, barely, a performance upgrade as small as a K&N filter would get you back to where you want to be.
3) Not at all.
4) Your speedo is optimistic out of the factory. With 35" tires, my speedometer is now accurate (60mph speedo = 60mph actual speed). But don't just take my word for it, check it out with a buddy on cruise control.


We want pics pleease. Enjoy your upgrades!

 

[Best4x4]

I've used Bilstein shocks on my Land Rover's, Jeep's, and I just ordered and installed the 5100's and bump stop's from Trail Duty. My OEM shocks might not have been leaking but at 113K they'd seen better days. I was going to try to Monroe Mono's, but after doing some price crunching the Bilsteins with the bump stops from Trail Duty was the best deal I couldn't find 5100's for any less than 125.00 a shock and Trail Duty had them for 89.00.

I haven't had a chance to install the front shocks yet, but after just installing the rear and the front bump stops the ride is so much better. If you've got a lot of miles on your H3 I'd suggest some new shocks like the Bilstein 5100's or Monroe Mono's.

 

[backcountryislife]

So are the normal 5100's automatically the same as the "cognito" or whatever... the one that lets the metal hit metal? Can you buy a 5100 & have it stock length so it does the job a shock should do, avoiding that hard contact?

 

[amrg]

So are the normal 5100's automatically the same as the "cognito" or whatever... the one that lets the metal hit metal? Can you buy a 5100 & have it stock length so it does the job a shock should do, avoiding that hard contact?

Ive been running the hunner 1/2 inch nut on my alpha and that allows the metal on metal contact with stock shocks. I added a 3/8 inch round bump stop that I got online by using the existing hole on the metal stop, so far no luck with stoping the contact. I can tell that the control arm drops on it by the marks being left on the RED stop, but apparently thats not enough. I may have to change the location by drilling above the existing hole, or go up in thickness (which renders the idea of putting the 1/2" nut useless but at least maybe it would solve the metal on metal contact when using Bilsteins which is what Im planning to upgrade to later on). Im not too fond of using limit straps as a solution.

 

[backcountryislife]

why not just get rid of the nut??

 

[amrg]

I just did

I was just worried that with the bigger tires and my new offset wheels Id end up busting a shock with the constant up down motion when going fast on the dunes/desert. But I decided I had enough of that metal on metal noise. Anyway, now i have a stock shock setup, and its still hits metal on metal!!!! Im probably not very tight with the nut on the upper part of the shock housing, im gona tighten today and see how it goes.

As for the bushing I got from energy suspension, It actually started cracking right in middle where it was taking the hits. So if a bushing is to be used, it has to be a 1/2" one atleast

 

[backcountryislife]

Weird... I wonder why you're getting contact with a stock setup then? Perhaps the internal bumpstop has been worn??

 

[telemike]

I have the Monroe Reflex shocks. Good value monotubes that aren't stiff. I can't get fill droop on front though. I have a jam nut spacer and sitting at 23.5" and using Trail Duty bumpstops.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 4

 

[telemike]

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 4

 

[nj3talpha]

thanks for the input everyone. I think I may have cranked the t-bars too high. The ride is very bumpy. Is there a certain height i'm not supposed to exceed? Do I have another alignment if I'm lowering it?

 

[ArtHummer]

1. I would definitely not go any higher then your rear wheels. (Measurement from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender fender)
2. Yes. Every time you change the height you have to do the alignment.