SO.... is there really no way to fix the steering rack issue on the H3?

[backcountryislife]

Honestly bro, i think its time to look at SAS swap. I really like the ifs for the desert driving i do but reliablity reason the first time mine takes a dump and strands me off to my buddy shop for the swap.

I just won't put that kind of money into this for something that I can't guarantee performance wise. If there was a package, where I could say $3000 will get me a SAS that I know works without the BS, testing, wondering, etc... I'd do it. I don't have a shop, I don't have the time, and I don't have the desire to work on it myself... so it would be way pricey!

 

[backcountryislife]

Honestly bro, i think its time to look at SAS swap. I really like the ifs for the desert driving i do but reliablity reason the first time mine takes a dump and strands me off to my buddy shop for the swap.

Just for fun though... what do you guys think a SAS would cost having a shop do it. I'd even be willing to go d30 if that would get me some cheap takeoff axles...

 

[atvspeed4]

Dont give up! We really want you to run our steering brace when it is done. New files are at the shop as of yesterday and we are waiting for them to "print" a 3d prototype for us to test fit.

 

[Hunner]

I'm not so sure that unisteer is any heavier built. Even though they said they did not build a rack for our weight class that one looks like what we got, meaning what came on our H3 is not for our weight class either!!!!
It is good to know that if all the others disappear there would be a place to at least get something made to fit even if it was not heavier but could be mounted and add our current and future mounting options.
I have been concerned enough to have made the mods I did but not so confident for the future that I did not hoard some racks! lol
In my case my BP tie rod clevis's were made to fit the Mondo rack so I needed to stay with that.
That is an interesting pass side mount. I wonder how it is attached to the tube?
I would like to see a Hilux rack end. Maybe ole Nugget can get some info and pictures if these guys will not share that info.
Keep looking.

 

[reaper]

Dont give up! We really want you to run our steering brace when it is done. New files are at the shop as of yesterday and we are waiting for them to "print" a 3d prototype for us to test fit.

I'm waiting too!!! Let me know when you have them ready...

 

[silvrzuki77]

I think if your not doin any of the work yourself i think 3gs would be cheap. Look at 4speedfunk sas swap and following his suggestions you would be pretty much set. I know d30 are cheap and cant be built tough for enough cash but a 44 would be cheaper in the long run. I know your gettin bummed about it breakin all the time but your still money ahead versus buyin anything else. I know ive been there done that lol

 

[backcountryislife]

I think if your not doin any of the work yourself i think 3gs would be cheap. Look at 4speedfunk sas swap and following his suggestions you would be pretty much set. I know d30 are cheap and cant be built tough for enough cash but a 44 would be cheaper in the long run. I know your gettin bummed about it breakin all the time but your still money ahead versus buyin anything else. I know ive been there done that lol

Looking at a 2009 4 door Rubi... d44 f and r, locker, 35's, soft and hard top, 50k miles.., 21,900. Very tempting . Comes WITH a SAS for free n stuff btw

Sent from my A200 using Tapatalk 2

 

[silvrzuki77]

Poopy d44's that bend with a motor that has even less power than the i5!! Have 2 guys a work that put 35's on their 2011's right before the new motors got put in the 2012's holy cow what a dog!!!!

 

[silvrzuki77]

Remeber Just Everyone Else's Parts JEEP. Been there done that haha!

 

[06 H3]

My 3.5 I5 beats my brothers JK in terms of power and that's the 3.5 with all my added weight. He even admits im faster. You will need to regear running at that elevation and 35s. I'd say 5.13s. Regear front and rear expect 1k installed. The front 44 is prone to bending especially on tougher trails. I would sleeve it and possibly truss it. I would take a look at a my axle build for my brother once I start. The goal is to build it for 37s/38s and not have it break.

Get a warranty too...factory lockers on those things fail a lot! Search it, it's very common.

The JK will out flex the H3 and make things easier which is a plus...just don't expect to have no breakdowns. They have issues just like we do.

 

[06 H3]

And I don't wanna sway you one way or another. The JKs are badass but don't expect bulletproof and the H3 is giving you issues because its not bulletproof either. I'd be pist off too if I broke that much! I'd probably park it, save up for a DD and do the swap!

 

[Chook]

Ultimate Power Steering has now published a video of my H3 before & after the fix. Kit is on its way & will be available online to purchase worldwide by Paypal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4jpHf-WMVU

 

[4speedfunk]

Rubi D44s are not the D44s from the 70s & 80s. They are certainly better than the AAM-7...but still not up to snuff for hardcore wheeling and rockcrawling. They kept just enough of the original D44 to keep the name & reputation but, in reality...they are very different and not as beefy as the original. IMO...You need to take your monthly payment for the new JK, and apply it to a SAS project on the H3.

 

[backcountryislife]

Rubi D44s are not the D44s from the 70s & 80s. They are certainly better than the AAM-7...but still not up to snuff for hardcore wheeling and rockcrawling. They kept just enough of the original D44 to keep the name & reputation but, in reality...they are very different and not as beefy as the original. IMO...You need to take your monthly payment for the new JK, and apply it to a SAS project on the H3.

The only problem with that is that in the meantime, me driving the H3 will cost me more than the monthly payment!:huh:

The 44 may not be perfect, but to compare it to our front end is just not even realistic. I've never seen someone have steering issues, or blow a ring gear in a 44.


Also, if you put big $$ into the 3... what would you get out of it? You say $3k would be a bargain... not sure what kind of number WOULD be realistic in comparison. I also don't know who I'd take it to. Lots of folks have done yota SAS jobs... but I doubt a single place in the state has done a 3. If it were a simple job I'd be willing to spend the cash, but as someone who tests sled stuff, I don't want to guinea pig stuff on my truck. I do this to get away from stress, not have more.

If there's someone out there that's done a SAS before, that's willing to do another for a reasonable price... I'd entertain the idea!

 

[Schwarttzy]

Ultimate Power Steering has now published a video of my H3 before & after the fix. Kit is on its way & will be available online to purchase worldwide by Paypal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4jpHf-WMVU

Is this the answer? I'm kind of jumping into this looking for a fix, not a band-aid, and I'm asking this of everyone...

Is the rack and pinion strong enough? Or do we need look for something stronger? And I think I have seen something about stronger tie-rods but I haven't been able to find it again.

 

[Schwarttzy]

The 44 may not be perfect, but to compare it to our front end is just not even realistic. I've never seen someone have steering issues, or blow a ring gear in a 44.

I have seen both problems, many times on some 07's and 08 rubicons.

 

[reaper]

Is the rack and pinion strong enough? Or do we need look for something stronger? And I think I have seen something about stronger tie-rods but I haven't been able to find it again.

Bullet Proof Tie Rods are what Hunner runs, but they are RIDICULUOUS expensive. Well, $800. http://bulletproofsteering.com/gmpricingoptions.html For me that's a few bucks... although they do have other benefits as well. I haven't had problems with the 16mm rods. If you're not already running 16mm tie rods, that's a no-brainer swap, the early models came with 14mm tie rods, but you probably already know that.

I'm wondering if we should be talking to those folks about a rack fix?

 

[Hunner]

Ultimate Power Steering has now published a video of my H3 before & after the fix. Kit is on its way & will be available online to purchase worldwide by Paypal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4jpHf-WMVU

They did not get as violent as I did in my video but it does look good! lol
I need to check my drivers side for movement with my sleeve in the other side and see how it is now.
Thanks for your input on this, it seems simple for a place that has experience.

 

[Hunner]

Bullet Proof Tie Rods are what Hunner runs, but they are RIDICULUOUS expensive. Well, $800. http://bulletproofsteering.com/gmpricingoptions.html For me that's a few bucks... although they do have other benefits as well. I haven't had problems with the 16mm rods. If you're not already running 16mm tie rods, that's a no-brainer swap, the early models came with 14mm tie rods, but you probably already know that.

I'm wondering if we should be talking to those folks about a rack fix?

I talked to Randy at BP back when I did the tie rod prototyping and he seemed to think there was not much market way back then but did have some ideas.
I may call him but Chook seems to have the source that has an option.
When I did that front end work and tie rod change, the drivers side seemed good. Might not be now?

 

[Hunner]

Is this the answer? I'm kind of jumping into this looking for a fix, not a band-aid, and I'm asking this of everyone...

Is the rack and pinion strong enough? Or do we need look for something stronger? And I think I have seen something about stronger tie-rods but I haven't been able to find it again.

Here is sort of a "brief" by Hunner standards on the BP. I think all the other was lost on the forum transition, but I have it.
Since I was involved in making a custom version of this to fit an H3 I did not pay near what they are listed for, which made it easier to decide. I supplied digital scaled images and my measurements and came up with how to fit them to the rack, with lots of input from Randy, the owner of BP. It was an interesting project for a couple of months.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?1968-HUNNER-tie-rod-info

 

[backcountryislife]

Is this the answer? I'm kind of jumping into this looking for a fix, not a band-aid, and I'm asking this of everyone...

Is the rack and pinion strong enough? Or do we need look for something stronger? And I think I have seen something about stronger tie-rods but I haven't been able to find it again.

IMO, that's a band aid. I think Hunner's sleeve does more to fix it than that does.

The bushing material will help, but the way these break it's the structure of the main part of the rack that's the issue. Keeping the spreading force from being possible IMO, is the only real way to fix it. The urethane bushings would be a big step from rubber, just like in the F diff mount, but in this situation, it can't really "hold" the rack from spreading, as it simply uses the stuck U bolt & has some give by design.

Putting the hunner sleeve on one side, or a clamp style like atvspeed is talking about would help a ton, then pairing it with those drivers side bushings or a solid bushing would IMO, be a real fix.
Right now they're getting rid of "movement" because of the drivers side bushings, but the passenger side can still slip through that clamp... you just can't eliminate the "splitting" force that way IMO.


Just curious, how often are folks breaking the 16mm tie rods? I don't see that being an issue... am I way off on that?

 

[atvspeed4]

Well hardware came in last night for our upgraded tierods. The inner tierod set is done and we have the outer tierod ends. Only part left is to have a set of 1144 stressproof adjuster sleeves turned and we should be ready to install and test.

 

[atvspeed4]

We are thinking aluminum solid bushings driverside, the clamp passengerside and these tierods. Then comes some serious testing before the winter! Also we will have the option of installing the clamp and then tack welding the top piece of the clamp to the actual rack and pinion and then removing and completely welding the top clamp to the rack. This would allow you to install and remove the rack but solid mount it from ever moving. It would be kinda like the second mount that comes from the factory on the silverado rack.

 

[Schwarttzy]

http://bulletproofsteering.com/gmpricingoptions.html

Ya I have seen that website a couple times... I'm generally afraid of a website that looks like that, but it's good to know that it is legit.

 

[Hunner]

This thread is all over the map, but lots of good info. lol
I have always thought the rack broke from up and down leverage from the long end at the pass side, caused by the tie rods and enough movement of the rubber bushing to apply pressure on the more secure drivers side rather than a pushy pulley thing. Maybe?