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Suspension/Front end rebuild?

rsm688

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
mississippi
Okay guys well I recently picked up an 06 H3 with 96k miles on it and a bad t-case for cheap, I'm going to be rebuilding the t-case and putting on new tires and figured with 96k miles most of the suspension and front end parts are probably pretty worn out. I was going to rebuild my front end and suspension to not only improve the ride but to help protect my new tires from wearing unevenly as well. I am making a list of what all parts I should swap out in the driveline/suspension.


Front upper control arms
Lower front ball joints and control arm bushings
Front and rear sway bar bushings (if they look bad)
Front and rear sway bar links (depending on how they feel)
Front and rear shocks (Bilstein)
Rear leaf spring and shackle bushings
Front differential bushings (upgrade to Scorpworks crossmember/bushing)
Steering rack mount upgrade



Is there anything else I should replace, or any of the above parts that might not need replacing at 100k miles? Should I go ahead and replace the outer tie rod ends as well?


Also, any particular brands to go with or to stay away from? I've seen a lot of Moog and AC Delco parts online


Thanks,
Spencer
 

motley1987

Well-Known Member
Messages
102
Location
Delaware
I'm looking to do the same things since mine us at 80k and I already need to replace an axle seal and the steering rack bushing. I already replaced the front and rear end links and all four shocks. I figured if I have to take apart the front end to do the axle seal I might as well knock out some other stuff so I don't have to do it twice.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
List looks good. Buy two of everything and send me a set. Lol
If you plan on adding weight to the front (bumper, winch, brushguard) you may want to consider a set of alpha torsion bars to support the extra weight. They're about 30% stiffer than the i5 bars. Just as thought.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,663
Location
Scottsdale
When you're in there you can figure out if tie rod ends are worn. I wouldn't automatically replace them. Torsion bars do wear out but unless you have symptoms, like that it won't keep a ride height, I'd leave them alone for now. If you're going to work on the springs you may want to consider adding a full length leaf as the rear springs wear out too, and a bit quicker than the torsions, in my opinion.
 

6pack

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
Eldersburg, MD
I'm looking to replace the lower control arm's bushings and ball joint. Are there upgraded replacements out there, or do we need to go with stock?
 
Last edited:

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,663
Location
Scottsdale
AC Delco ball joints are available on Amazon. One benefit is that they have zerk fittings so you can keep them greased. Not sure of any other quality options other than OEM
 

rsm688

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
mississippi
I went OEM for my lower ball joints and bushings, I didn't want to risk it with cheaper brands. I used aftermarket upper control arms, bilstein shocks, and moog sway bar links.

I also ordered a set of Alpha Torsion bars as well.


-spencer-
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
I went OEM for my lower ball joints and bushings, I didn't want to risk it with cheaper brands. I used aftermarket upper control arms, bilstein shocks, and moog sway bar links.

I also ordered a set of Alpha Torsion bars as well.


-spencer-
Aftermarket UCAs? Where did you get those?
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I went OEM for my lower ball joints and bushings, I didn't want to risk it with cheaper brands. I used aftermarket upper control arms, bilstein shocks, and moog sway bar links.

I also ordered a set of Alpha Torsion bars as well.


-spencer-

How much did all that cost you, if you don't mind me asking?
 

rsm688

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
mississippi
Whoops I didn't mean aftermarket I meant non OEM parts. Digglesworth, shocks $300 (bilstein), upper control arms $180, lower ball joints $150 (oem), lower control arm buhings $80 (oem), sway bar lins $30 (moog), alpha torsion bars $220 (oem)
 

CaseyS

Well-Known Member
Messages
755
Location
Louisiana
Any special tools needed for this? Ball joint press rental from the parts store good for the lower ball joints? What about getting the lower inner bushing pressed out of the frame? About to tackle all this myself as well.
 

rsm688

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
mississippi
Casey, I was thinking ball joint press from Autzone myself. I am not sure yet what I am going to do about the 4 bushings in the frame for the lower control arms. I do not have access to a hydraulic press to use so maybe rig something up maybe
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,663
Location
Scottsdale
A ball joint press will mostly take care of the ball joints and the LCA bushings but we found that it seems to take a variety of adapters to make it work well. We couldn't do it with just the auto store tools. The first time we found bits and pieces in the garage to add to the ball joint press to make it work. The second time we were better equipped and used a standard kit along with a secondary adapter set with more pieces to it. We used this ball joint kit. If you can, it can be worthwhile on splitting this cost with a couple of friends.

With the LCA bushings, one is all rubber and is pressed into the LCA, so you remove it when the LCA is removed. The other is rubber in a metal sleeve and you push that out of frame crossmember. A hydraulic press is not required.
 
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