T-Bar Crank and Alignment

[yellowh3]

Cranking the T-Bars and getting an alignment tomorrow. :hans:

 

[Bigunit]

Good luck. If you want to come down to Tucson, I'll do it for you and we can then take it over to Firestone so that you can get the "lifetime alignment". Are you going with longer shocks (i.e., Bilsteins) and the longer Trail Duty bumpstops too?

 

[yellowh3]

I am only going to 23 1/4. I am having it done at 4 Wheel Supply and they said the shocks should be good. I am doing the bump stops when funds become available.

 

[poncho1965]

Have not cranked my T-bars yet, but might have to after adding winch mount/winch. Adding about 115 lbs to the front. I'm also still running 33's.

 

[Hunner]

I had to crank mine again after adding all that to the front to get back to the same distance.

 

[backcountryislife]

I am only going to 23 1/4. I am having it done at 4 Wheel Supply and they said the shocks should be good.

FYI, when we do this we don't change the travel at all... no longer shock is needed, it just changes where in the travel range the truck sits. Now a shock that's more suited to it sitting with more play might help... mine was a mess until I tossed the Bilstiens on, but the shocks were probably pretty toast anyhow.

Aftermarket has told us we need "longer" shocks... but we're limited by the bumpstop & the limiter... no extra travel occurs, as this isn't a "lift" in the traditional sense.

 

[jakesz28]

When I added the bilsteins I actually gained an inch of down travel. The stock shock limits full extension. The a arm did not touch the lower stop until I replaced the shocks.

 

[Xlr8n]

If you are only cranking them up an inch or so, by adding a long nut threaded on the stock shock stud as a spacer before you mount them, with the retaining washer and bushing sitting on top of that, will put the travel of the shock closer to the stock position at ride height.

 

[backcountryislife]

Considering how hard the hit is when they go full down... I kinda wish I had the limiter back in the shock then, mine clunk if they go full somewhat fast, I don't like it.

 

[alrock]

I also have a set or two of shock extension brackets that someone fabbed up and gave to me when he sold his H3 if anyone wants them. You'll occasionally see something in those H3 "lift kits" that come with the keys.

 

[rebell_h3]

not trying to steal any thunder from from yellow, but i did a torsion lift key and noticed that they weren't even "the excess threads sticking" out so i measured them got them close to equal with a tape measure. then i measured from center hub and i got 24.50 on driver and 24 on pass. i called an alignment place "firestone" and they said to make sure they were equal an they would do the alignment and would fix the half inch difference. so now my steering wheel is not level the drivers wheel is leaning in and its still .50 inch difference. i found the only way to fix is have the pass side 1 inch higher than the driver side does that hurt the front end having one side that much higher. i have to take off wheels put stock wheels on for them to do alignment because the clamps wont lock onto the rims, they already bought a new one for me. any help or advise.

 

[alrock]

I don't understand why the truck won't go level from left to right. The bolts don't have to be turned an equal amount. Set one side (I'd recommend lower than 24" to minimize wear and tear on the truck) then set the other side. You might have some back and forth. Can help to drive the truck a bit and re-measure to verify that it didn't settle.

If Firestone can't do it for you see if you can find a 4 Wheel Parts or similar to do the alignment.

 

[yellowh3]

Got it done at 4 Wheel Parts on Saturday. :horns: The shocks on the 3 aren't great so I think I am going to go with the Bilstein 5100 unless some has a better recommendation.
I will try to get a pic up soon.