Transfer case bushing failed!

[jakesz28]

I found a used t400 yoke local. It was pretty nasty so it went in an ultrasonic cleaner.



You can see I will need to turn a spacer to set its depth of engagement.


But it should work.

 

[jakesz28]

Well I finally opened up my $350 eBay transfer case. Other than a bad shift fork I probably could have put it in and been fine. There was very minimal difference from that chain and the new chain. The magnet was not terribly dirty. I did replace the seals, shift fork and the rear output shaft bushing. Since that's what failed on my last case I cleaned the case good and glued the bushing in. Hopefully it stays put and does not come out like the last one.

One problem, I broke the tiny 1/8" shaft on the end of the shift mechanism shaft. Going to see if I can drill it out tomorrow and replace it. If not I will be waiting another 2 weeks for a $40 part.

Tomorrow while I try to fix the tiny shaft, I plan to drill and tap the rear output shaft for the bolt on yoke. I may finish the SYE later after I move. But I need to get this driving now.

So I am currently $650 deep into upgrading to a 4 to 1 transfer case.

 

[4speedfunk]

One more idea... Rather than using a spacer on the yoke, you should trim the internal end of it off and bolt it on so the yoke base is flush with end of the shaft if possible. By using a spacer, you are hanging the yoke further out on the end of the output shaft (cantilevered), and this will make it more prone to "wobbling". The less it sticks out...the less likely it is to waller out the new bushing. However, the H3 has a rather weird seal that sticks way out, so you might not be able to push the yoke all the way down. If so...I guess you would be forced to use the spacer. Is that the case? (no pun).

That 1/8" tit on the end of the shifter shaft, is only needed for assembly. It holds the shaft in place until you can get both halves of the cases aligned and bolted together. Once its all back together, it serves no purpose and if you could find a way to hold the shifter shaft in position...then you could save yourself $40 and two weeks of waiting on a new one. I have no idea how to do that...just throwin it out there.

 

[jakesz28]

If it was not for breaking the shaft I was going to put this off till a later date. But output shaft is tapped.



Had I known that was only used for alignment I would have put it together. I went thru a local dealer and paid full retail on that shaft. With any luck I will have it tomorrow.

Your right about the goofy seal on the back of the case. That is why I need to space it out. I figured I would get as close to the seal as I can.

 

[jakesz28]

Got the shaft and put it back together. Manually turning the shift rod I can feel 4 low lock working, neutral and 4 high. But I do not feel 4 high lock. Took it back apart everything looks right. Left it in what should be 4 high lock, bolted it back together, shifted and could not get 4 high lock again.Just because everything seems correct and 4 low lock works I am putting it in this weekend.
Have a couple things I need to fix on the truck before I start moving. Not going to take the truck out of commission if the hummer is not drivable.

 

[4speedfunk]

I've had to do the same thing...take it apart four times before I got it working right! Do not re-install it until you get it "bench" working. Its worth your time to sit there and spin the input on the bench, to make sure nothing is binding (especially in 4HI-Street). Really go over it for a half-hour or so...and cycle thru all three modes. What I have found is that, a simple quicky-check yields all is good. But then if you continue to rotate the input...the more the chain and gears will mathematically stray from each other, and you will start to feel binding if its put together incorrectly. If you turn the input once or twice...it feels good. But if you continue to turn it over 20 times...it will bind if something is wrong. Many times I thought I had an issue with 4HI-Lock, and the real issue was that 4HI-Street was bound so tight...I thought I was in 4HI-Lock. So keep at it...play with it before you re-install it. You'll know when its right...everything works smooth as butta...and it will never bind no matter how long you fiddle with it. Don't try to kid yourself by thinking "its just all new and tight and it will loosen up after a few miles". Trust me, if you got issues on the bench...you'll have issues in the truck.

One area I recommend really taking a close look at, is the indexing of the sun gears with the planetary gears. There are marks on the sun gear, and marks on the planetary gears. When you load the planetary gears into the basket...all four hash marks need to be in alignment with the hash marks on the sun gear. The manual shows "dots"...but all the ones I had apart had "lines". Also...the GM manual shows an exploded view of the gear-train, and there are parts actually shown installed "backwards" in the diagram. Good ole GM...I would expect nothing less. If you try to put it together like shown, you'll quickly discover its impossible to assemble it like the diagram. Common sense. Square peg, round hole.

Lastly...make sure the chain is installed in the right direction. It will fit either way...but the teeth are cut to mesh properly in a specific direction. My chains come with a blue link on one side, that tells you which way to assemble it.

 

[jakesz28]

Does is go from 4 low lock, neutral, high lock, then high open?

I was expecting it to go from 4 low lock, neutral, high open and then high lock. But I think it the other way.

 

[4speedfunk]

I cannot recall the order off the top off my head. 4LO is easy to spot. 4HI-lock and 4HI-street require a closer look but, I thought they were right next to each other on the encoder.
I don't think I've ever found a "neutral" on the bench. Sure you aren't in between modes?

 

[jakesz28]

I did not take it back apart. The chain and gears were installed correctly. I rotated it numerous times and no binding. I do think the shifting goes from low lock, neutral, high lock, than high open. I was shifting right thru high lock and never noticed it. But I was able to feel it before I put it in. Than the one I removed shifted the same way.

So it is installed. 75 mph and as smooth as ever. I think it has had a vibration for quite some time from the loose bushing and I thought it was just coming from the tires. All modes seem to work and wow, low is really low. I slid under it after driving down the highway. Felt a little warmer than I thought it would have been. I am going to continue to keep an eye on it. But now that it drives I can fix the rusted brake line on the truck. There was no way I wanted both vehicles to be down at the same time. If I get the truck fixed this week I plan on taking to first load of stuff the Missouri.

 

[jakesz28]

CJ, not sure where you posted it but I took your advice on dropping the transfer case. I had to pull the transmission mount and lower it to get the top bolt out. But all I had to do was pull the shift motor, then pull the transfercase back drop it down on my chest and push it aside. Same method going back in. Sit on your chest and push it up. So I did not have to pull the crossmember out.

 

[4speedfunk]

I've never had to pull the crossmember...I do it exactly the way you describe. Glad it works...and yes 4:1 is crazy low. You should drive one with 5.13s, 4:1, and 37"s...crazy capable.

 

[06 H3]

Do you have a pic of this under the truck driveshaft and sye?