What body lift is this?

[H322]

What body lift is this? When I did some research shows a 3" have been thinking about a body lift not sure if a 3" would out to much strain on certain components or just go with the 1" instead.

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[Panzer07]

That's a self pieced together kit. You'll need to get longer transmission cable, steering rod, radiator hoses. Not worth the investment personally, I was looking into this end up going with the day star 1" kit


Torres

 

[H322]

Is a 1" worth the trouble? I have Been thinking hard about the rancho 4" with 35s but fear it would be to hard on my i5. I do want to be taller though


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[woodwardsh3]

that does look nice, but it does show a lot of frame, I all so will be doing a 1'' body lift this summer to go with my 35's

 

[H322]

[oQUOTE=woodwardsh3;195050]that does look nice, but it does show a lot of frame, I all so will be doing a 1'' body lift this summer to go with my 35's[/QUOTE]

Do you have an alpha or i5?



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[woodwardsh3]

I5 And it handles the 35 just fine. To me it is not a huge difference. I drive like a old man in the h3. I did loose 1.5 mpg with the 35's and aftermarket wheels
they are MB-11'S No mods to motor. and it does well off road as well

 

[rsc]

That H3 was done by MXV in Brazil. I contacted them last year asking for more information on it or if the would do it to an H3 for me, they did not contact me back. Their Web page says it is a custom 3" body lift with a 2" Rough Country lift (torsion keys and shackles) on 37" bias plys.

 

[Panzer07]

Is a 1" worth the trouble? I have Been thinking hard about the rancho 4" with 35s but fear it would be to hard on my i5. I do want to be taller though


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I'd think so even with the rancho you'll have some rubbing when articulating that extra inch does make a difference. The install is pretty easy as well. About 30 min if you don't have rust.
The I5 can handle the combo of 35"s, rancho, and 1"body lift just fine.

The 1" gap is barely noticeable too, I'm running such combo.

The slider sort of become steps

Torres

 

[H322]

My torsion bars are already cranked to 23.5 but would it better to purchase torsion keys and have them installed instead? From my understanding turning the t bars is pretty much the same thing. I also installed new pro comp shocks with for h3s with 2"-3" leveling kits to compensate for the t bar crank rightnow the front sets alittle but higher than the rear what size shackles would I need to bring up the rear to a level stance?


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[rsc]

Don't buy the torsion keys, waste of money, you've already done what they will do. Cranking the torsion bars does not give you any extra travel that would require different shocks. The stock shocks top out about 1/2" from the mechanical limits of the suspension, adding a 1/2" thick nut or washer under the threads at the top of the shock is the ONLY thing needed with stock components to get the max allowable travel from the H3 up front.

Shackles are tricky, if they are 4" longer than stock you will get an effective 2" lift from them (the extra length is split because the front anchor point doesn't move and the axle sits about 1/2 way between the two points). Measure your height all around from center of wheel to bottom of the fender. If the front is at 23 1/2" and the back is at 24 1/2" then you need 1" lift (2" longer) shackles. There are a couple options, Warrior Products are beefy but the holes and bolts do not match the H3's bolts but they have several length and finish options, Supreme Suspension makes bent steel shackles like stock but 2" longer, and Schwarttzy makes a set too.

Before you get all crazy about being "level", remember that if the bottom of the vehicle is "level" then the roof will still have some forward rake to it. No need to thank me, just let your OCD run wild with that kernel of information. :mock:

 

[H322]

Don't buy the torsion keys, waste of money, you've already done what they will do. Cranking the torsion bars does not give you any extra travel that would require different shocks. The stock shocks top out about 1/2" from the mechanical limits of the suspension, adding a 1/2" thick nut or washer under the threads at the top of the shock is the ONLY thing needed with stock components to get the max allowable travel from the H3 up front.

Shackles are tricky, if they are 4" longer than stock you will get an effective 2" lift from them (the extra length is split because the front anchor point doesn't move and the axle sits about 1/2 way between the two points). Measure your height all around from center of wheel to bottom of the fender. If the front is at 23 1/2" and the back is at 24 1/2" then you need 1" lift (2" longer) shackles. There are a couple options, Warrior Products are beefy but the holes and bolts do not match the H3's bolts but they have several length and finish options, Supreme Suspension makes bent steel shackles like stock but 2" longer, and Schwarttzy makes a set too.

Before you get all crazy about being "level", remember that if the bottom of the vehicle is "level" then the roof will still have some forward rake to it. No need to thank me, just let your OCD run wild with that kernel of information. :mock:

Thank you lol nothing but good information exactly what I was looking for thanks again


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[4speedfunk]

If you do longer shocks and the shackle thang on the rear....make sure your brake lines and vent tube are long enough to handle the extra droop. You can out-flex them (bad situation).