What is this and why does it have oil coming out of it...

[RazorbackH3]

Hey guys, got a bit of a problem... (2006 H3 with 153,000 miles)

Got bored today so I crawled underneath my 3 and saw this on the front driver side (Passenger side is dry)... Where the plate thing with the bolts meets the cylinder thing towards the center of the picture...

It's flinging oil...

Is this where the axle shaft is? Is something like this normal... I'd understand if the oil filter was above it and possibly the mechanic got some oil on there when he changed the filter... but the filter is on the passenger's side, and this is fresh (About as fresh as it can be from being inside my H3) oil on that skid plate bolt in the 2nd picture... Figured that I'd ask you guys before even thinking about taking it into a stealership... Does anyone know what this is and why it possibly has oil coming out... Only took my 3 offroading once a month ago to do some light wheeling and exploring... no wnarly rock crawling, mudding or anything...

Any help would be appreciated... Really nervous that something might be bad, but it's still driving like it usually does, with a slight lag when accelerating from a stop...

 

[alrock]

Torn axle seal, normal wear and tear. Not an emergency fix. The CV axle must be removed to replace the seal. $13 part. 30 minutes of work for those that have practiced it, 1.5 hours the first time you do it. Here's the part. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KSEGW4/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do it yourself, be sure to not nick the new seal with the sharp axle splines or you'll be doing it again in a few weeks.

 

[RazorbackH3]

Ok thanks alrock, really had me nervous when I saw oil... Glad it's not something that will drain all my money or put the 3 out of commission for a very long time... Thank you again.

 

[abearden]

Only thing I'd add is check your front differential fluid level if you don't know how long it's been leaking.

 

[Hunner]

Be advised if fluid can come out dirt and water can get in.

Did anyone find a source for those guide plugs to keep from damaging the seals?k
F5 mentioned them once.

 

[RazorbackH3]

Hey abearden... yeah, when I replace my seals I'm gunna make sure to check that... Thanks.

 

[RazorbackH3]

Hey Hunner, Thanks for the warning. :cheers:

 

[HummDinger]

If you are replacing the seal and have that many miles I would go ahead and replace the needle bearings that are right behind that seal... $13 part on Amazon as well... Part # is hk-4012. Comes out very easy with a slide tool

 

[RazorbackH3]

Thanks Humm, yeah figure a lot of stuff is gunna need to be replaced as my mileage climbs higher... And beings that I just installed my new bumper, I'm gunna be keeping it for the long hall... Probably do an expensive engine swap later in it's mileage life...

 

[alrock]

Be advised if fluid can come out dirt and water can get in.

Did anyone find a source for those guide plugs to keep from damaging the seals?k
F5 mentioned them once.

ebay: KENT MOORE NEW J-44394, http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Axle-Se...1492524112&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Deals vary from time to time. Be sure to check the # being sold as there are some stupid expensive offers on eBay for $30 for one of these.

Other places have them too: http://www.etoolcart.com/AXLE-SEAL-PROTECTOR-J-44394.aspx

 

[RazorbackH3]

ebay: KENT MOORE NEW J-44394, http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Axle-Se...1492524112&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Deals vary from time to time. Be sure to check the # being sold as there are some stupid expensive offers on eBay for $30 for one of these.

Other places have them too: http://www.etoolcart.com/AXLE-SEAL-PROTECTOR-J-44394.aspx

Thanks alrock, I ordered 2 off amazon a few days ago and should get em' in by Monday... Just gunna go ahead and replace both the front axle seals, just to be on the safe side.

 

[alrock]

Cool! And while not necessary this tool makes pulling the seals easier. You can also get it at the local auto parts store. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-S...&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=lisle+axle+seal+puller

Be sure to apply a bit of oil to the seal and perhaps a tiny bit of grease to the metal surface when installing them. Push them in straight and gently hammer them down with a blunt, flat object, like a large socket, to seat them evenly without bending them and without damaging the inner seal.

 

[RazorbackH3]

Cool! And while not necessary this tool makes pulling the seals easier. You can also get it at the local auto parts store. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-S...&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=lisle+axle+seal+puller

Be sure to apply a bit of oil to the seal and perhaps a tiny bit of grease to the metal surface when installing them. Push them in straight and gently hammer them down with a blunt, flat object, like a large socket, to seat them evenly without bending them and without damaging the inner seal.

Thank you very much for all your help alrock... Now this axle seal replacement job doesn't seem as nerve racking as I originally thought... Thank you again. :cheers:

 

[alrock]

Do you have the other tools you need? Sockets for axle nut, tie rod end and shock absorber? Not sure if you saw the CV axle removal process, but it's essentially:
1) remove axle nut with 35mm/36mm socket (found the fit seems to vary by brand)
2) jack up vehicle and remove wheel. Support vehicle with jack stands on frame as you need lower control arm to be able to move around.
3) remove tie rod end. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of tie rod end to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
4) remove lower shock nut and bolt
5) remove lower ball joint nut. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of ball joint to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
6) pull spindle away from CV axle, pulling one end out of spindle and then other end from axle housing. May take some bending, patience and persuasion

On reinstallation, besides greasing seal it can be good to grease splines to help minimize sharp edges and smooth the sliding past the seal. This is in addition to using the axle seal protectors, if you get them.

Recommend some anti-seize on the ball joint, tie rod end and CV axle thread for the next time you have to do this.

You may need to use a jack to raise up LCA for reinstallation

 

[Panzer07]

Do you have the other tools you need? Sockets for axle nut, tie rod end and shock absorber? Not sure if you saw the CV axle removal process, but it's essentially:
1) remove axle nut with 35mm/36mm socket (found the fit seems to vary by brand)
2) jack up vehicle and remove wheel. Support vehicle with jack stands on frame as you need lower control arm to be able to move around.
3) remove tie rod end. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of tie rod end to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
4) remove lower shock nut and bolt
5) remove lower ball joint nut. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of ball joint to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
6) pull spindle away from CV axle, pulling one end out of spindle and then other end from axle housing. May take some bending, patience and persuasion

On reinstallation, besides greasing seal it can be good to grease splines to help minimize sharp edges and smooth the sliding past the seal. This is in addition to using the axle seal protectors, if you get them.

Recommend some anti-seize on the ball joint, tie rod end and CV axle thread for the next time you have to do this.

You may need to use a jack to raise up LCA for reinstallation

Thanks for detail write up...I'm gonna be doing this soon too...when I put my new cast iron differential with locker.


Torres

 

[RazorbackH3]

Do you have the other tools you need? Sockets for axle nut, tie rod end and shock absorber? Not sure if you saw the CV axle removal process, but it's essentially:
1) remove axle nut with 35mm/36mm socket (found the fit seems to vary by brand)
2) jack up vehicle and remove wheel. Support vehicle with jack stands on frame as you need lower control arm to be able to move around.
3) remove tie rod end. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of tie rod end to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
4) remove lower shock nut and bolt
5) remove lower ball joint nut. Use dead blow hammer(s) to break connection of ball joint to spindle with a hard whack on the side of the spindle by the ball joint
6) pull spindle away from CV axle, pulling one end out of spindle and then other end from axle housing. May take some bending, patience and persuasion

On reinstallation, besides greasing seal it can be good to grease splines to help minimize sharp edges and smooth the sliding past the seal. This is in addition to using the axle seal protectors, if you get them.

Recommend some anti-seize on the ball joint, tie rod end and CV axle thread for the next time you have to do this.

You may need to use a jack to raise up LCA for reinstallation

Yep Got everything I need to work on it... Just have to work up the courage/find the time to work on it. And thank you for the CV axle removal process writeup... save me a lot of scratching my head.

 

[humvee]

I hate changing seals (especially the rear oil seal), $10 part, $1000 job.

 

[4speedfunk]

So what did we learn?

(don't get bored and crawl under your H3!)

:giggle:

 

[alrock]

Exactly. I go to Reloader's for a cup of coffee and end up doing two parts store runs and five hours of work on the H3.

 

[RazorbackH3]

So what did we learn?

(don't get bored and crawl under your H3!)

:giggle:

Haha, totally... If ya don't see it and it isn't causing a problem then it don't need fixing... :giggle:

 

[Hummerboy]

Just saw mine is leaking as well... It's the front driver side. Is this really an expensive install? And would I be better to replace both while its at the shop?

 

[RazorbackH3]

Just saw mine is leaking as well... It's the front driver side. Is this really an expensive install? And would I be better to replace both while its at the shop?

I plan on just replacing both... better safe than sorry, don't want to get one fixed and 100 miles down the road find the passenger's is leaking...