What performance mods you got?

[Hunner]

You gotta give us some slack. Most everything has been put on the table but we still may come up with something.
The "anti gravity suspension kit" is still under development. However the skate board version has seen some success.

 

[06 H3]

I saw H32NVs setup in moab and liked it hopefully he can chime in soon. He gained clearance a good amount of clearance at the spring hanger

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[backcountryislife]

I saw H32NVs setup in moab and liked it hopefully he can chime in soon. He gained clearance a good amount of clearance at the spring hanger

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Sent him a PM as well.

I like the skids... but it's a bandaid approach for someone who wheels as much as I do, I want to gain the clearance & avoid hitting, rather than only avoiding damage. I need protection, but that's not in the cards right now anyhow, just not the way I want to go just yet.


Just find of frustrating, I'm sure there are other ideas... but I just don't know what else to try without spending a ton of cash. There has to be some old threads out there with some ideas, but I don't know what to search for... :huh:


Maybe I'm just expecting too much.

This same question in regards to sleds would yield HUNDREDS of different ideas... there's just SOOOO much out there. I can't imagine that there's more of a particular type of sled than there is of the H3, maybe it's just willingness to mod things? just seems odd to me, I'm so used to a million different ideas about what to try.

 

[bebe]

Spring hangers, have yet to see a single solution other than SOA... and I'm not going to do that without a better idea what/ how to do it.

I can walk you through it...

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?2605-Bebe-s-H3-Spring-Over-Tech&highlight=SOA

 

[bebe]

I think if you did a ubolt flip, and chopped and replaced the hangers, added an extended shackle, without relocating the spring pac it could work. but you may lose some lift...I have to think about it.

 

[Flash]

GM performance intake, Fox reserve resevoir (Rod Hall Racing) shocks, 33" M/S tires. + various skid plates UCP.

 

[backcountryislife]

I can walk you through it...

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?2605-Bebe-s-H3-Spring-Over-Tech&highlight=SOA

I'm definitely leaning that way, but my problem is I'd be bringing it to a guy... and if he's guessing at stuff then I'll be coming back, and paying more, to get it right the next time.

There's a lot of info there, but not knowing measurements, and how to put the springs/ axle/ shock mount package back together, and how to determine angle worry me.

That would, by far, be the best way to go, solves a number of issues, I just worry about my guy not getting things right... and I'm not strong enough at that side of things to feel I could avoid it.

 

[backcountryislife]

I think if you did a ubolt flip, and chopped and replaced the hangers, added an extended shackle, without relocating the spring pac it could work. but you may lose some lift...I have to think about it.

I'd like to do that... but I can't even find a flip kit that will work with this or the CO... maybe I'm just searching the wrong stuff?

 

[bebe]

Springovers have been done forever - and are very easy to do. Basically you put every thing back in the exact same location.

The front hanger stays in the exact same location, it just get cut off and replaced. (Just mark the frame on the center line of the bolt hole and then line up the new hangers bolt hole and weld it on)

The springs stay in the exact same place just on top of the axle. You can even use the same springs, center pins. u-bolt plates and hangers!

Here is your Parts list!!


I'm telling ya - once someone does it on here then everyone will be doing it.

 

[backcountryislife]

So, do you cut the shock hanger to go over the axle?

 

[H3DONIST]

Hey Bebe, where would one obtain the parts in said parts list? Are those custom fabbed pieces?

 

[bebe]

Hey Bebe, where would one obtain the parts in said parts list? Are those custom fabbed pieces?

Ruffstuff ask for Brian or Parts Mike ask for Kevin - tell them both that Bebe sent you. OR if you want, I can call and have them put together an SOA kit.

What you need:
Spring Perches -2
Spring Hanger -2
Shock mounts -2
U-bolt plate -2
U-bolts -2

You will need to lengthen your drive line - Fill out Jess's form and ship with your Drive line - High Angle Drive line

And tell Jess - bebe sent you.

 

[bebe]

So, do you cut the shock hanger to go over the axle?

Yep - cut it off and put a new one on the axle tube.

 

[reaper]

Ok Bebes... I'm not talented in the garage enough to do that type of thing myself. (I know, the shame...). What type of price range should a guy budget to have this type of thing done (including parts)? I have the Rancho lift, and the rears tend to sag more than they should...

 

[bebe]

no more than $800.00.

 

[bebe]

I got a guy - Steve - in Sac area Golden State Motorsports who will do them for probably less than $800.00 (http://goldenstatemotorsports.com/) The owner is a Hummer Owner....no BS here!

 

[backcountryislife]

Then what kind of $$ for the driveshaft though?

 

[bebe]

Then what kind of $$ for the driveshaft though?

$150 -$300. You are in CO so you could get something similar from Tom Woods - another master. I've talked with him, and a lot of guys on Pirate use him, but I know Jess at HAD, and he was one of the first to design a double cardon for chevy's...he knows this inside and out - and honestly doesn't make dumb mistakes. I sent my driveline and had it back 2 days later. He does most of the work himself. (I think the kids he hires paint the DL's)

 

[bebe]

And really, It's drive-able on the street w/o having it lengthened - so you could do it in 2 steps...just don't wheel it. Oh and you will have to make sure the pinion angle is correct, Jess will help you with that. Every rig is different.

 

[H32NV]

Sorry guys! Ive been traveling a lot lately and just got to reliable internet. In Colorado now and headed to minneapolis next. Here goes!

Mine was done by American Spring & Axle in Flagstaff. Scott over there is a master, builds jeeps, buggys and trophy trucks. We actually removed the leaf springs, cut the rear spring hangers out, flush with the frame rail, chopped them down, and rewelded them on. It takes a laser alignment rig to get it all set back up perfectly aligned. We then cleaned and reprinted the frame in that spot, reattached the leafs, and used new U-Bolts. I decided to keep spring under, as I typically drive my H3 to the trail, most likely 100 or so miles away on each trip, so I wanted to retain some good on-road characteristics. Cutting the spring hangers down meant that I also lost lift in the process, so in addition to the extended rear shackles(which I remade out of 3/8" hardened steel btw, the 1/4 was actually flexing under load) I also had to re-arc the leaf springs with a steeper curve. Here comes the controversy. Re-arc'ed leaf springs can have a tendency to feel 'harder' on the pavement, and they can droop over-time. The plus side is that if you keep it modest, you won't have to buy a new high-angle driveshaft, and youll mantain no risk for axle wrap. I haven't seen any droop, and don't feel that they came out 'harder', so it's been a win-win for me so far. At the time, I also had new poly bushings pressed into the leafs, and had the leafs rebuilt with new anti-friction slides. All of my squeaks went away, and half of my loose rear end issues went away. I haven't had many Clearance issues really ever with the spring under setup, and my clean-ish Hunner shock skids prove that. Since the shocks are mounted fairly close to the tires, the tires themselves usually lift the shock mounts out of the way by way of simple geometry. It would take a special situation or a pretty gnarly angled rock to cause some issues there, and I just haven't seen any issues yet. My biggest clearance issues were with that front spring hanger of the rear leaf packs.

 

[H32NV]

BTW, my rear axle modifications cost a total of $400. I had other stuff done too on the front end, but $400 is what it cost to have the rear done. $150 for the rebuild and re-arc, $100for use of the laser alignment rig, $100 to cut, chop and re-weld the spring hangers, and $50 for U-Bolts, paint, and some new bushings and pins for my sway bar disconnects.

 

[MaxPF]

If you do an SOA, don't forget about the brake line and locker wires. Both will need to be longer if doing any kind of lift, including SOA. Also, a SOA will give roughly a 4" lift, which likely puts the static driveline angle at or beyond the acceptable limit for a single-cardan u-joint setup. It is usually desirable at this point to do to a double cardan at the t-case end, and a single at the pinion, with the pinion angle set to -1° at normal ride height. Its these little things that usually bite the noob in the butt.

My list of mods are too long to bother with. Suffice it to say my rig is on it's third (and final) iteration. It's on it's third engine, third transmission, second transfer case, second front axle, third rear axle, third set of front springs, second set of rear springs, second rear shackle flip, fourth exhaust, third fuel system, third set of shocks, second steering box, second hydroboost, etc. Currently I am working on fully boxing the frame and adding new fixed crossmembers to bring the entire frame up to 1-ton ratings. Once the mechanical stuff is done, I will take a hiatus, and then work on bodywork, paint, and interior.

Yeah, I'm a mod junkie. I can't help it! :giggle:

 

[ReconH3]

Also, a SOA will give roughly a 4" lift, which likely puts the static driveline angle at or beyond the acceptable limit for a single-cardan u-joint setup. It is usually desirable at this point to do to a double cardan at the t-case end, and a single at the pinion, with the pinion angle set to -1° at normal ride height. Its these little things that usually bite the noob in the butt.

The problem with this is that the transfer case rear output is a slip yoke. I've looked into finding a slip yoke eliminator to be able to do a double cardan setup. I have yet to find one. Anyone have a source? I've also seen a slip yoke with a double cardan, but the people I know can't seem to find one compatible with the H3 output. That option is probably harder to find then the slip yoke eliminator.



"Ex Umbris Venimus"

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[MaxPF]

The SYE is easy: send me a t-case and a wad of cash and I will design one and have Todd machine it.

 

[ReconH3]

The SYE is easy: send me a t-case and a wad of cash and I will design one and have Todd machine it.

That's always the easiest solution. I just haven't dedicated enough time and research, but there has to be a plate with matching splines as H3 output. If OD is too large just have it machined down to match slip yoke/output seal size. If it's too smaller, it's just a matter of finding a smaller ID seal. Problem is finding the time and calling the right people. The goal is to find a reasonably priced solution so more people can do SOA conversions without breaking the bank.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

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