Windshield replacement or restoration?

[Paranormal]

I' am planning on taking some kind of action in regards to my windshield and looking for some advice.
I purchased a 06 H3 back in Aug. Little by little I' am replacing parts that need replacement. Eventually, I plan to replace or restore my windshield because it looks as if it has been sand blasted. It becomes hard to see when the sun hits it in the right angle. After searching this forum, I found a very informative post on how to replace the windshield, I have attached the link below. My questions are:
Has anyone locally to me (Long Island) had this done recently and can recommend the place.
What is the "Special" tool shown in the thread used to remove the cowl and what is its function? It appears that the cowl snaps into place and has to be removed carefully.
Has anyone opted to restore the windshield instead of replacing it?
I have seen a few videos on You Tube on how to restore the windshield and I' am undecided on which method I'll be doing.
I already purchased two new windshield post moldings because mine look like crap. I also have the stock lights on the roof that will need to be removed.
My goal is to do this the right way without breaking stuff!!
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ess-Overview&highlight=windshield+replacement

Thank you

 

[08H3]

The first time I ever had a crack, I had it professionally repaired. The chip never spread, but the repair was ugly and had it been in line of sight, it would not have been acceptable. Second and third times it happened, I used a kit from Wal-Mart that cost about $10. Worked great. Still not as good as virgin glass, but it was better than the professional job. Third time, the crack spread, so I just had a new windshield installed. It was dirt cheap, and I'd never consider doing it myself considering the price.

 

[Paranormal]

The first time I ever had a crack, I had it professionally repaired. The chip never spread, but the repair was ugly and had it been in line of sight, it would not have been acceptable. Second and third times it happened, I used a kit from Wal-Mart that cost about $10. Worked great. Still not as good as virgin glass, but it was better than the professional job. Third time, the crack spread, so I just had a new windshield installed. It was dirt cheap, and I'd never consider doing it myself considering the price.

Thank you. I rather have this done by someone who KNOWS about all the parts that needs to be removed on our trucks, not just a glazier that has no experience with the H3. That is why I asked the question about the special tool needed. I rather take everything apart myself and have it ready for the glazier to do just the windshield.

 

[rsc]

From what I heard some years ago, the cowl is a PITA and will break w/out the tool. I haven't done a replacement yet, but hope to have it done next weekend and watch.

This is a good link on the process.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ER-H3-Windshield-Replacement-Process-Overview

 

[Paranormal]

From what I heard some years ago, the cowl is a PITA and will break w/out the tool. I haven't done a replacement yet, but hope to have it done next weekend and watch.

This is a good link on the process.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...ER-H3-Windshield-Replacement-Process-Overview

Thank you. That is the same link that I attached to my post...LOL. If you could, when you watch, please see how the cowl is removed. That is the only part of the process that I fear. By looking at the link it appears that it just pops up, similar to the fake air vents. There is a cowl for sale on Ebay. Thinking about buying it, just in case. I rather spend my money on the tool and know how to use it.

 

[rsc]

LOL, that's funny it's the same link. I'll see if I can figure out why it's so persnickity.

 

[seado5491]

If I can add some advice, please almighty god use GM OEM glass... I had the same issue as you with the sandblasted windshield (original OEM glass) and I had my insurance replace it once it got a decent crack. The glass company used aftermarket glass and they have replaced it 3 times for noise. Basically it sounds like I'm always driving in to a strong head wind. My H3 used to be super quiet and now I'm just annoyed.

The good news is that my INS company is demanding that the installer uses OEM glass to replace the windshield, but it is really annoying.

I believe the issue is because of the top moulding that is attached to the glass from the factory. The after market glass has a slight difference in shape that creates that noise.
(I know from testing and if I cover that moulding with painters tape (glass to moulding) the noise goes away)

I used to work in the car industry and for GM. I know that the employee pricing for OEM glass is roughly $350 so when you go to a deal to order the glass try to negotiate them down a bit.

Cheers and good luck!

 

[Gunner_45]

Paranormal, if you know who USED to be a HUMMER dealer in your area, you might reach out to
them and see if anyone is still around that remembers who their glass guy was. That post I made
on the replacement process was for either my '06 or '07. Unfortunately, when it came time for me
to replace the glass on my '10, that installer was no longer in business. This new installer did not
have that "special tool" and instead used a super long, skinny ass flat head screw driver. Said he
learned the hard way that you needed that to get the center of the cowl to release. He did a good
job, but I was nervous as hell about the cowl and the roof marker lights. I have since had issues
with the a-pillars popping up and getting air noise....Still trying to find a workable solution to that.
Not all "black goop" is created equal.

Whoever you end up going with for your replacement, ask them just how many H3's have they done
and that you want someone who is experienced with the process.

Good luck.

 

[Paranormal]

Paranormal, if you know who USED to be a HUMMER dealer in your area, you might reach out to
them and see if anyone is still around that remembers who their glass guy was. That post I made
on the replacement process was for either my '06 or '07. Unfortunately, when it came time for me
to replace the glass on my '10, that installer was no longer in business. This new installer did not
have that "special tool" and instead used a super long, skinny ass flat head screw driver. Said he
learned the hard way that you needed that to get the center of the cowl to release. He did a good
job, but I was nervous as hell about the cowl and the roof marker lights. I have since had issues
with the a-pillars popping up and getting air noise....Still trying to find a workable solution to that.
Not all "black goop" is created equal.

Whoever you end up going with for your replacement, ask them just how many H3's have they done
and that you want someone who is experienced with the process.

Good luck.

Thank you for the good info. It appears that the special tool is nothing more than a flat piece of metal with a rubber handle, similar to a slim jim used to unlock vehicles. I' am at a point right now where I think it would be safer for me to dismantle all the trim needed and have the installer come to my house. Weather has been warmer than usual here in the Northeast but not warm enough to make plastic more pliable. Trying to gather info now so I can do this in the Spring unless I find a competent installer now.

 

[Paranormal]

Yesterday, I had my windshield replaced and I would like to add some information to this thread in case someone else may need it.
In order to remove the windshield, you will have to do the following:
1. Open the hood and remove the left and right fake intake pieces by pulling straight up on them, I sacrificed my hand by putting it between them and the hood.
2. Remove the left and right windshield pillar moldings. There are two small screws on each side, attaching them to the body, you can only acces the screws with the door open and by moving the rubber weather stripping until you can see the screws. There are three(3) clips on the front of the molding, mine were all broken. Gently, pry straight upwards on the molding, starting at the bottom. I would heat it up with a heat gun first if it is not warm out. The top of this molding, locks in place into the black molding on the roof. after all clips are undone, lift from the bottom of the molding and you will be fine.
3. If you have a light bar, like I did......GOOD LUCK. All my nutserts, were loose and the screws were spinning. I had to pry a needle nose plier under each nutsert and push up while turning the screw with a torx 25 tool. Eventually, I took all out. Now you want to reset the six(6) nutserts back into place. I used the same removal merhod while screwing the fastener back in order to spread the nutsert again, similar to a rivet.
4. Remove the windshield wipers. At the bottom of the wipers, there is a black plastic piece that snaps off, letting you get to the nut holding the arm in place. I took a marker and lined the nut and the arm before taking it off so there would not be a question about putting it back on. After you take the nut off. twist the wiper arm counter clock wise and it pops right off.
5. There are two separate cowls to remove. The painted part has ten (10) metal clips holding it to the bottom cowl. I search on ebay and I found the part on sale and I was able to see where all the clips were. I took a long, thin, flathead screw driver and gently pryed where the clips where located, it came right up.
6. Close the hood. The bottom cowl, has four(4) small plastic faster in the front which are still available if you break them. It also has four(4) larger white fasteners in the rear which are no longer available unless you purchased the entire cowl through GM. Again, I search on Ebay for this part so I would know where the clips were located. This was not hard to pry up, I actually just carefully, pulled up with my hands.
7. I then called a qualified windshield replacement person and let them to their thing without having to worry about them damaging my H3.
8. Next day, I replaced everything I took off. It took less than 20 minutes and I was good to go.
Sorry I did not take any pictures as this was my first time doing this and was not really thinking about documenting my screw ups
Hope this helps the next person looking to do this.

 

[deserth3]

Smart move removing everthing yourself. FYI if you get the nutserts retightened. The original torque for the light bar screws is 30 inch pounds using blue lock tight. Do it properly and you won't have a problem next time. Let the gorillas handle it and you will.
Best to invest in an inch pound torque wrench.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[rsc]

Thanks for the write up, I didn't get to watch it happen as I was stuck at work. It all looks good now though.