The torsion bar tool is nothing more than a large a "C-clamp"...and you don't need it for removal. You need it for assembly. You can caveman it, (run the bolts in with an impact or a hand ratchet) but, you're taking a risk at galling the threads. If that happens...you're done! Game over. The threads are not really made to put the pre-load on the t-bars...they are made to hold the pre-load once you get them set. So by using a large C-clamp, you can push the keys up into place inside the crossmember pockets, then tighten the bolts accordingly. This takes the stress off the threads, and you'll never strip them with this method.
I also think it works best to slightly "over-tighten" the keys and bolts...then do the final adjustments by loosening the torsion bar bolts. This method basically "relaxes" the suspension down to the final ride height, rather than "cranking" it up to the final ride height. You hear stories about guys having to do multiple adjustments because one side keeps sagging? Yeah...that's why. Always come down to your final height...loosen, bounce, measure. Repeat in small increments. If you go too low, past your desired height...break out the C-clamp, over-tighten the keys again, and start over. Lowering to the ride height will always give you a consistent, predictable, pre-load on the bars. Try it. It works the first time.
