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Where to find front and rear diffs?

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
So, just sitting in the garage with my friend and I was kicking around the idea of just dropping both of my diffs and putting in ones from the adventure with the front and rear lockers and 4.10s. How hard would that be to find them? And how hard would it be to wire up the lockers so they would be functional. My hummer is the i5 lux. So I currently would be starting from scratch.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
So, just sitting in the garage with my friend and I was kicking around the idea of just dropping both of my diffs and putting in ones from the adventure with the front and rear lockers and 4.10s. How hard would that be to find them? And how hard would it be to wire up the lockers so they would be functional. My hummer is the i5 lux. So I currently would be starting from scratch.

Seems like it would be easier and less expensive to just buy front and rear lockers. The 4.10 gears in an I5 would be terrible. But if you're set on it, I would check for salvaged/wrecked H3's.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Seems like it would be easier and less expensive to just buy front and rear lockers. The 4.10 gears in an I5 would be terrible. But if you're set on it, I would check for salvaged/wrecked H3's.

I'm pretty sure the front diff can't have lockers put in it. I think I saw that somewhere. I'm basically just trying to get front and rear lockers haha. Like I said. Just kickin around ideas.


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derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
I'm pretty sure the front diff can't have lockers put in it. I think I saw that somewhere. I'm basically just trying to get front and rear lockers haha. Like I said. Just kickin around ideas.


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I thought you could put a locker on the front diff, because how would the adventure package have a locker? They both share the same diff and gears, just different T-cases.

Getting front and rear lockers should be less than 1500$

And I know man, i've been wondering how much it would be to lock up the front on my 3.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
I thought you could put a locker on the front diff, because how would the adventure package have a locker? They both share the same diff and gears, just different T-cases.

Getting front and rear lockers should be less than 1500$

And I know man, i've been wondering how much it would be to lock up the front on my 3.

Idk what is do able, thats why I figured I'd post it up. I mean if I could stick lockers in it, okay that would work! But I also wouldn't be opposed to just swapping everything. I would be able to do that myself, Id have to take it somewhere to have someone do the locker though. So, thats the upside of just swapping everything.
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Basically a wrecking yard. Both are discontinued from GM as assemblies.

And Derian, you wouldn't want to put a locker in an aluminum housing on a 3. They are weak to begin. The 09 up had cast iron housings with the locker
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Basically a wrecking yard. Both are discontinued from GM as assemblies.

And Derian, you wouldn't want to put a locker in an aluminum housing on a 3. They are weak to begin. The 09 up had cast iron housings with the locker

Yeah thats what I figured, and ahhh okay, I guess its time to go junk yard hunting then. Would it be a big job wiring the locker? And the axles would basically be plug and plays right?
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
You would need to get switches also. A few people here have wired them. Some more ghetto than others. I know 06 H3 did his own wiring
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Basically a wrecking yard. Both are discontinued from GM as assemblies.

And Derian, you wouldn't want to put a locker in an aluminum housing on a 3. They are weak to begin. The 09 up had cast iron housings with the locker

I thought all alphas had cast iron housings? Or is it just 09 plus hummers?
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Actually it's 08 up alphas my bad. Found out the hard way awhile back. Non locked most had an aluminum housing.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Off of the top of my head, front locked cast iron is G93. The rear, I forget. I can check on Monday

I found a bunch of rears for sale, its ZM6 i believe for the off road one they say. Which gearing would be better for the i5? keep the 4.56 or 4.10?
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
It is zm6. You would have to keep the front and rear the same ratio. Rears with a locker easy to find. Fronts are another story. Try car-parts.com. Have used that for a lot of stuff. Most wrecking yards are on it
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
It is zm6. You would have to keep the front and rear the same ratio. Rears with a locker easy to find. Fronts are another story. Try car-parts.com. Have used that for a lot of stuff. Most wrecking yards are on it

Yeah thats where I was! Thank you! Yeah I just don't know which ratio to pick? My friend in his jeep learned the hard way that the axles had to be the same ratio, his transfer case blew up so hard it dented his body
 

Zach

Mall Crawler
Messages
4,812
Location
So Cal
Wrong gearing front to rear will throw everything off and light the cluster up like a Xmas tree. Let alone damage.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
I found a cast iron diff. With the locker. But it's just the pumpkin. Would I be able to swap the pumpkin from my current diff to the new one with the locker?


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Most guys that want to re-gear...want to go the other way (lower), to compensate for larger tires. Unless you have a diesel (CaseyS), I can't imagine wanting to go higher on the gearing...especially with the 5-cyl. It can barely pull 35"s on the highway with the stock 4.56 gearing, and if you run 37"s it probably means 3rd gear at 60 mph. On any other vehicle the solution is to re-gear to 4.88s or 5.13s but, on the H3 that's not possible without a torch, four-weeks of shop time, and $6000. The lowest ratio you can install in the front AAM-7.625 is 4.56s....so you're stuck with em.

Alpha guys can drop from 4.10s to 4.56s to help overcome some power loss (Kflips) from larger tires. But 5-cly guys are just plain out of luck.

The least expensive route to lockers is to find a wreck AP equipped truck and swap the entire front & rear assemblies. This is a 3-hour job, and you can expect to pay $1000 each used, locked, axles. You must find an 09-10 with a 3.7L to get the cast-iron, locked front axle. That's a tall order...not many around, wrecked or otherwise.

The next cheapest route is to install new lockers into your existing axles. Depending on the manufacturer...lockers will cost you around $750-$1100 per axle PLUS labor. There are basically three choices for selectables...OX, Eaton, or ARB. Labor should run around $300 per axle. You will need to install relays, wiring, & switches (for electric)....or on-board air compressor (for air)....or a cable (for mechanical) engagement.

Yes, you can swap the internals from your aluminum to a cast iron case, if you like.

No, you cannot run different gearing in the front & rear.

Yes, you should re-flash your PCM to adjust shift points and speedo calibration (even for tire size changes). It makes a difference.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Most guys that want to re-gear...want to go the other way (lower), to compensate for larger tires. Unless you have a diesel (CaseyS), I can't imagine wanting to go higher on the gearing...especially with the 5-cyl. It can barely pull 35"s on the highway with the stock 4.56 gearing, and if you run 37"s it probably means 3rd gear at 60 mph. On any other vehicle the solution is to re-gear to 4.88s or 5.13s but, on the H3 that's not possible without a torch, four-weeks of shop time, and $6000. The lowest ratio you can install in the front AAM-7.625 is 4.56s....so you're stuck with em.

Alpha guys can drop from 4.10s to 4.56s to help overcome some power loss (Kflips) from larger tires. But 5-cly guys are just plain out of luck.

The least expensive route to lockers is to find a wreck AP equipped truck and swap the entire front & rear assemblies. This is a 3-hour job, and you can expect to pay $1000 each used, locked, axles. You must find an 09-10 with a 3.7L to get the cast-iron, locked front axle. That's a tall order...not many around, wrecked or otherwise.

The next cheapest route is to install new lockers into your existing axles. Depending on the manufacturer...lockers will cost you around $750-$1100 per axle PLUS labor. There are basically three choices for selectables...OX, Eaton, or ARB. Labor should run around $300 per axle. You will need to install relays, wiring, & switches (for electric)....or on-board air compressor (for air)....or a cable (for mechanical) engagement.

Yes, you can swap the internals from your aluminum to a cast iron case, if you like.

No, you cannot run different gearing in the front & rear.

Yes, you should re-flash your PCM to adjust shift points and speedo calibration (even for tire size changes). It makes a difference.

Okay so 4.56 it is. I found a rear with a locker for a decent price. And also this, http://m.ebay.com/itm/09-10-HUMMER-...IC-LOCKING-DIFFERENTIAL-OPT-G93-/331268789278

Like would I be able to buy that and just swap them? Or no.


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
I honestly cannot tell from that ebay ad...what exactly they are selling.

If its a rear locker...it should be the entire axle for that price. The description lists a "carrier" (which means different things to different people)...and if they are pulling the differential out of the housing and selling just that piece, then this is not a good deal. I sort of think that might be the case because they also provide free shipping...around 30 lbs. I cannot imagine shipping an entire axle for free...its over 200 lbs! I would call them and make sure you are getting what you want. I've bought from Schram before, and always had good luck.

G93?...no idea, sounds like an axle code...Google it. If the donor truck is a 5-cyl. with a locker then it should be a 4.56 geared version. I don't use axle codes...instead I look for the ZM6 (Adv. Pak) code on the vehicle build tag.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Alright I'll look for that! And yeah I saw that and was confused as to what was being sold. I found some locked rears on that website that zach gave me. No luck with fronts though. I feel like those are gonna be a needle in a hay stack.


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Actually...if you look at that Schram ad again, you will see the ZM6 (Adv. Pak) code listed on the bottom row of the build tag...and its clearly a 5-cylinder. So, if this truck is an 09-10...it will have 4.56-geared front and rear diffs...both with lockers...cast-iron front. Call em up and see what you can get both front and rear complete axles for. Offer them $1500. Worst they can do is say no. Just make sure the axles you get are coming from that exact vehicle shown in the ebay ad. These parts houses are famous for posting generic pics, and sending you whatever H3 axle they have in stock, (often not the one in the photo). Few people outside of this forum (and some inside) know anything about Hummer options.

While you're at it...offer em $2000 if they'll throw in the 4:1 t-case.
 
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