My 3 suddenly died while I'm driving today

[Ben]

I was driving today, for some unknown reason suddenly the dash passlock light came on, steering wheel locked,truck creeping little bit and died, scare the $hit of me. I tried to start, I can hear clicking but motor not turning over , last week my battery died after I went to shopping for 30min, have my buddy boosted and driving fine this week. I called tow truck, waited few mins and I can start the truck , so I have to cancelled the tow service.
Anyone know what problem could be? Btw, I replaced pcm 2 months ago, no passlock relearn needed( don't know why), engine light came on , haven't done case relearn, could this be related?
Thanks in advance

 

[alrock]

A failing ignition housing causes Passlock issues where the vehicle will not start for 10 minutes. I've not heard of it failing while driving.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

you have battery issues - get a new battery

 

[Ben]

A failing ignition housing causes Passlock issues where the vehicle will not start for 10 minutes. I've not heard of it failing while driving.

That's scary, I was cranking my music out loud and heated seat max, could it be the battery?

 

[Ben]

you have battery issues - get a new battery

Yeah, I'm going to check the battery voltage, battery its only 2 years old, but it's -30 C last night

 

[Renagade132]

It could be the battery, or excessive drain of add on equipment, which might not happen when the temp is normal, but when it's real cold,not will drop the battery resistance even lower, causing it to go dead. I fixed that on my rig by adding a permanent mount in hood slow battery charging unit, that I only have to plug in with an extension cord and the battery remains at full charge. Unfortunately I think it might be more then just the battery, maybe the alternator? Because your truck should not shut off while driving! But engine light coming on, is not good either. Keeps us updated if you find out for sure what's the issue.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

whenever it's an odd set of issues - start with the battery as the culprate...

 

[Hunner]

Check the battery cables and if the connectors are the OEM get better ones swedged on.

Also check the ground to the vehicle wire.

 

[H322]

Had the same issue with mine first day I purchased it. Did some searching on forums everything led to battery or batt cables. Went to my local interstate battery purchased a new battery and battery cables drove it for about 30min died again. After having it towed to the shop and a new alternator installed I was good to go no issues since.


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[Ben]

So I did some test today, my battery was 12.4v before any surface charge, once I started, it's like 14. Something V, didn't check the alternator output cause I can't probe my meter to the positive cable, something in the way, but any way, I shut the truck off for like 2 hrs, try to started, dash light came on like 1 sec then died, wtf, I'm desperated and call my buddy try to boost again, while waiting , I checked battery again, 12.6v that means 100%charged, I wiggle the both terminal cable at the battery , guess what happened, dash light on and I started the truck, must be those stock connectors , looks still in tact and no corrosion , I'm going to order some aftermarket one or grab from work, see how it works

 

[JPaul]

Could be the stock battery terminals have corrosion on them, and on top of that they don't like to really tighten on very well after a while.

 

[4speedfunk]

H3s are very "ground sensitive". Whatever time you spend on the hot (red) wire...double the time inspecting the ground (black) wire. Its a common misconception that the hot wire is always the problem. 9 out of 10...its actually the ground. All over the truck, there are jumper wires that connect the body to the frame...the BCM & PCM to the body...the frame to the motor...the motor to the battery...etc. This ground path must remain conductive for the battery to get a completed circuit. The H3 is so damn electronic-choked, that proper grounding is absolutely essential. Unlike older vehicles...without a proper ground, the H3 will go total ape-****. All it takes is one tiny ground to fail...and the dash lights up like a KISS concert.

As these trucks get older...this will be become a bigger and bigger problem. Its a good idea to grab some sand paper, and attack the ground straps...sanding the terminals and the attachment points down to bare metal. Road salt, rust, and bi-metal reactions...can all build up enough resistance to stop the flow of electrons from getting back to the negative post of the battery.

DC. Its a crazy thing.

 

[08H3]

Is the column lock on H3s mechanical or electronic?

 

[4speedfunk]

AT-equipped H3's have no column lock...not sure about stick-shifts. You must use the GM lock-pin tool, or tie the wheel to the brake pedal.

 

[08H3]

AT-equipped H3's have no column lock...not sure about stick-shifts. You must use the GM lock-pin tool, or tie the wheel to the brake pedal.

Not sure on mine now that you mentioned it. Assuming, then, none of them have a column lock, why would his steering wheel have locked? I can't see that tying in to any of the other issues.

Also, if you are replacing the battery terminals, replace them with mil-spec terminals. It really lets you connect all of your accessories (if you have any) easily in a well organized way.

 

[4speedfunk]

I don't know. You're the one that asked. I have the lock pin tool that I use whenever I do steering work.


EDIT:
Oh...I went back and re-read his original post. Now I see what you're referring to. I think he meant the "ignition key tumbler" locked. There is no lock on the actual steering wheel...at least none that I've ever ran across. I can grab and rotate my steering wheel anytime I wish to...vehicle running or not...in gear or park...in any t-case mode. I don't think the column locks, (except manually using the GM tool).