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H3 Rancho Lift (detailed review)

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I know we have this thread here http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?271-The-Rancho-Lift&highlight=rancho+lift but I want to put this out there in terms of some obstacles never mentioned that should be looked at with the rancho lift.

Everyone has talked about the basic cons on the rancho lift, backspaced wheels, more difficult to change the oil filter, PITA to change out the steering rack. One con mentioned but never really questioned was the lack of flex.

According to four wheeler, "In stock form, the 111.9-inch-wheelbase H3 traveled 50 inches up a 20-degree RTI ramp, logging a score of 447 points. After the installation of the kit, the H3 traveled 47 inches up the ramp, logging a score of 420 points. Naturally, this loss of travel raised some eyebrows. Rancho says this: "The leaf-spring package that we originally released for the H3 was not exactly what we were after given the extremely soft rate of the original equipment springs. At the time, it was the best available. RTI Modified


The reason for the difference in the RTI scores is primarily due to a higher-rate leaf-spring package along with excessive jounce bumper interference. We have since tweaked the rear spring design and included an updated jounce bumper bracket to correct for and maximize ramp travel (articulation)." They also noted that they would be happy to supply the updated components to any readers who are not completely satisfied with their Rancho H3 suspension system."


Read more: http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarti...hummer_h3_lift_kit/viewall.html#ixzz2ANksCA5y

When I was researching about my rancho lift purchase I wanted to know why the hell this damn kit flexed less but I never really heard solutions on how to fix this. So I wanna help out others on the fence of doing this kit.

I personally see 1 issue with the front suspension and 1 with the rear on why it flexed less.

Rear: Rancho claims it was the spring pack...Why though?

2012-01-24_08-33-10_267.jpg


Here you can actually see the leaf spring is longer when it shouldnt be. After looking at the picture below they wanted to go for a soft spring rate so it will ride nice. When I spoke to the guys at deaver they said the pack is too long. Even the deaver spring was the same length as the stock spring and gave more lift then the rancho spring. The length of the main leaf shouldnt of been adjusted at all IMO, it should have been the arch.

clip_image001.gif


Now lets take a look at this picture above, the further the shackle is back the softer the rate is. Well the softer the rate the less it will hold the weight. Now you have the shackles naturally in a soft rate position its only gonna go further back. Next thing you know 208 lbs in the trunk will set your shackles like this.

2012-02-04_16-07-20_439.jpg


Cya later up travel! You have no up travel now...you bottom out constantly and your actual shackle angle should be around here(next picture.)

Shackles in the correct place, with deavers and stock springs

2012-03-15_17-47-43_525.jpg


So Rancho is correct, the rear leaves limit the flex. I am not sure if that new leaf pack ever came out though...Timgco may know that answer.

For the front: I have no issues with the front except the shocks. the rancho shocks in lifted and non lifted form have less travel then any other shock.

This is from bebe a long long time ago

Front Shock Comparison

Brand.........Extended Length......Compressed Length.......Travel

Rancho............15.77"............................13.43"................2.34"
OEM................15.0"..............................11.25"................3.75"
Fox.................16.0"..............................11.5"................. 4.5"
Bilstein............18.42"............................11.77"................6.65"

Ok, that took a long time LOL

I arranged the measurements to reflect travel from the least to the most.

When we started my H3 project, we removed everything so we could get an accurate travel measurement. Without the shocks, but with OEM bumpstops the H3 OEM suspension travels 4". Down travel is limited by a cast metal stop under your upper A-arm, up travel is limited by the rubber bump and the shock. (Sway bar factors in there too).

For the rancho lifted shocks the extended and compressed lengths are longer but still net 2inches of travel. Now I am not entirely sure of how the bumpstop extension brackets affect uptravel. If done correctly it will be the exact same as OEM, if longer it will limit uptravel or shorter it will allow more up travel. Down travel is still the same maxed out as the metal stop below the upper a arm is the limiter.

Solutions:
For the front I would say throw some longer shocks in and your good, use all 4inches of travel, we sure need it.

For the rear, there are several options. The most time consuming one is the spring over and so far its well worth it. Other then that I would say if a spring shop could rearch a stock spring and throw in an extra leaf you wont deal with the shackle hitting the frame and can get the lift necessary. You wont deal with low hanging leafs like I did especially with a set of lo pro mounts from tomp or schwarrtys design. Not sure how high arched springs affect travel though. Bebe may know that.


Overall I would do the lift kit all over again. I really hope Rancho never discontinues the lift kit for us as it is a great kit but can use some minor improvements. It gives the height you need for clearance and if you can solve the rear and switch shocks your in good shape!

Hope I brought a new aspect to the rancho lift review. Feel free to comment or correct me if anything was wrong or you think its wrong. These have been my findings but I am always up for criticism and education.
 

Medic_Morgan

Well-Known Member
Messages
392
Location
San Diego, CA
Great review of the lift/performance/specs. Got a question though and I know we touched on this lightly at LCC. Can the kit be purchased w/o the rear components? i.e- to allow us to "research and perform" our own plans(custom pack, spring over, rearch)


Sent from my secret lair bwaaahhahahahah
 

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
Thanks Chris!

My modifications to the lift:
$89 Add-a-leafs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2011-Chevy-Colorado-GM-Canyon-2-Rear-Add-a-Leaf-Leveling-Lift-Kit-2WD-4WD-/250957574004?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AColorado&hash=item3a6e3caf74&afsrc=1 -- this fixes the rear shackle angle and fixes the rear sag.

The front bars are also trash, I had mine rebuilt like this with added cross-bars for protection, using some pretty beefy bars:
5055948128_d3190f43c0_b.jpg

I LOVE the front components of the lift, with the exception of the bars that I replaced. I also had to replace the differential bushing, I'd recommend ordering a spare because they're not something that's going to be readily available if it breaks on you, I had to get it stright from Rancho.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Great review of the lift/performance/specs. Got a question though and I know we touched on this lightly at LCC. Can the kit be purchased w/o the rear components? i.e- to allow us to "research and perform" our own plans(custom pack, spring over, rearch)


Sent from my secret lair bwaaahhahahahah

According to timgco around a year ago yes you can
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Reaper I like your ucp I ended up copying you and built my own. I didn't touch base on the diff bushing but your correct. I left my research to flex because it was never touched upon. The diff bushing has a fix that nugget came up with and the 2 diff cradle bushings were also upgraded. I think everyone should upgrade those too. Still trying to find someone to get me a few sets
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
You have come around to some good observations and conclusions on your own after actually having hands on experience.
I recall some discussion we had about how the length of those springs affected the shackles much like the extended shackles also affect OEM springs. There are posts to that affect about the spring length or in our emails.
Glad to see you came to that conclusion and shared it.
There are still some variances posted on the actual length of some shocks. I discovered some when measuring the Bilstiens I have and some further discussion about others with actual users back when they came out. That was a subject of long discussion a long time ago.
Your explanation of the springs was apparently well thought out.
 
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06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks hunner. I have figured this all out a while ago but waited to post so i can find more info. For the shocks, my main reason for posting that was for rancho specs. I remember opening that box of shocks in December last year and was baffled by the travel. There is none and I have blown those shocks out so bad lol I will post up a picture of the front shocks. Once the rear is fixed and adjust the front you should have as much or more flex then stock. Just the added clearance is worth it. Add more flex and your even better off....
 

reaper

Well-Known Member
Messages
527
Location
Denver, Colorado
One more addition:

Disconnect the front sway bar!!!! (You could even leave it off during the install if you're slick!). Mine drives very nice without the front sway bar, and I get a little more articulation.

06h3: Which front shocks did you go with?
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I just want to help clear up about shock lengths as I did extensive research and some measuring.
I know for a fact about the Bilsteins because I got some to find out.
I measure shocks from the center of the lower eye to the top of the lower (top end) bushing. It is my understanding so does Bilstein. Despite other posts contradictory to my actual measurement and shock length these fronts are 17 inches NOT 18 inches. (if those are the same model as I listed.) That is the measurement you need to know to fill the distance between lower mount and upper mount. It makes a difference. I will have to look up the compression length, I remember it being hard to do!
DAH_3573_resize-1.jpg

The Fox for a long time I was puzzled by some posted lengths I saw and wondered why they would make them the stock length.
Chad Hall finally cleared it up when I asked about wanting to know if they would work if I was using the 1/2 more travel.
He said they were first made to be used on a pre-runner H3 and later when they entered the stock class (ha ha) that since I asked, yes they could handle the 1/2 inch more travel. That seemed to have not been disclosed prior to that or somehow go lost in the specs being posted.
Just thought I should make that clear about my findings.
I think the Rancho's are too short despite what some retailers specs were. I don't know for sure because I avoided those from past experience with a Toyota years ago as far as reliability but that is a different story.
06H3 you have contributed some great info in your building of Squeeky as I can remember some razzzing I got for early support for your enthusiasm which has proven to be very beneficial to the forum.
MOD ON!

I still keep this updated
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?1893-SHOCKS-after-leveling-Hunner
 
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Chook

Well-Known Member
Messages
706
Location
Brisbane (Australia)
Just a note on Bebe's Shock measurements. I was part of that original thread and as I recall these measurements were for the OEM Replacement Rancho's (Not the Lift Kit Rancho's)
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
Thanks hunner! I remember that...people can criticize and critique all they want, I don't mind it...how can you get better without it. I've got a few ideas for the front now.

Chook that's correct. That was for non lifted H3s the lifted H3 rancho shocks have different compression and extension numbers but same travel wise it's about 2 which is disgustingly low lol
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I agree I understood at the time those were basically for stock replacement but there is some difference in the length of the model Bilsteins I got from Phil that are the common replacement which is what I based all my mods on, than those listed. (maybe it's not clear what model those were but what we were discussing at the time) and I had to make my decision by buying a pair and measuring. Just was trying to clear that up. Sorry for any confusion with anything to do with the lift but it concerned me as they were in this thread about the lift.
I went back and found those old posts on another forum about the shocks and it still reads the same way. Thus the picture I posted.
I don't claim to have any first hand knowledge of the Rancho for an H3 but do remember her saying she blew thru several Ranchos when she was more or less stock as I recall.
Maybe I did not explain that well, it will probably be taken wrong by those that have not read it all.
Sorry, just check the facts.
 
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06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
I agree I understood at the time those were basically for stock replacement but there is some difference in the length of the model Bilsteins I got from Phil that are the common replacement which is what I based all my mods on, than those listed. (maybe it's not clear what model those were but what we were discussing at the time) and I had to make my decision by buying a pair and measuring. Just was trying to clear that up. Sorry for any confusion with anything to do with the lift but it concerned me as they were in this thread about the lift.
I went back and found those old posts on another forum about the shocks and it still reads the same way. Thus the picture I posted.
I don't claim to have any first hand knowledge of the Rancho for an H3 but do remember her saying she blew thru several Ranchos when she was more or less stock as I recall.
Maybe I did not explain that well, it will probably be taken wrong by those that have not read it all.
Sorry, just check the facts.
Maybe the shock thing of stock height was a bad example. My point was just to show that it had the least amount of travel of all of them and the rancho shocks for a lifted H3 is the same when it comes to travel...I measured about 2 inches of travel.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
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I was just checking the rancho specs earlier today and thought Id contribute here.

The rancho site claims 4.38 inches of travel upfront for a 4inch lift application, and 9.78 inches for the rear. The parts numbers they display according to this site, http://gorancho.com/suspension.php?make=Hummer&model=05_10_hummer_h3#shocks , are RS999309 front and RS999310 rear.

Here is the rancho spec sheet, http://gorancho.com/assets/catalog/2012catalog_pdf/2012-13_Rancho_shock_specifications.pdf . According to this sheet, the front end should have a collapsed length of 15.02 inches and an extended length of 19.4 inches. Overall travel is 4.38 inches. Obviously, this isn't the case evident from what we've seen here. Am I reading those figures wrong or is there something wrong from the rancho end other than the fact their shocks are short?
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,505
Location
Meridian, ID
When I measured mine (not going off of website specs, measuring the ones i have) they were not putting our 4in of travel I can remeasure when I get back into town to make sure
 

Hans3T

Lif"T"ed
Messages
3,035
Location
NC
Great stuff, Chris. Thoughtful content like this makes H4O so great. I feel dumb reading it (i.e. it's over my head), but I'm glad it's here for all to see. :cheers:
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Rancho? Its a good kit. I wouldn't over-think it...just bolt it on and enjoy. I ran mine for two years and loved it. It has some issues (rear springs) but then again ALL H3's have rear spring issues. Also, I think the torsion bar drop brackets put added strain on the lower A-arm bushings. I didn't really notice until I removed the kit but, after taking a closer look...you could clearly see how the the lower A-arm bushings were wearing eccentric, due to the increased lever applied to them. The "twist force" of the torsion bar gets amplified by the two cast pieces that you insert into the A-arms. The stock rubber bushings can't handle the extra 4" of lever. Its a minor thing but, over time...I see it being an issue. Rubber bushings suck and I don't really blame Rancho for this. Other thoughts below...

True...Rack swapping is more difficult with the Rancho.
False...Oil changes are messy with or without the Rancho.
The front drive-shaft angle is beyond what the stock CV-boot can take.
Flex-shmex...if you wanted flex, you bought the wrong vehicle.
Deavers springs?...must be gold plated or something.
Rancho replacement springs?...I called about the sag, and they referred me to 4WheelParts to pay full price for a new pair. Nice.

BTW...the spring-over with stock springs is far superior to the spring-under with Ranchos. The SOA mod solves many problems...stance, travel, ground-clearance, lift, etc. and even though it is a PITA to do, the results are worth it.
 
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amrg

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Is there an aftermarket drive shaft that can be used to replace the stock one, hence solve the shaft issues?
As to the springs, can I just add a leaf from one of the aftermarket add a leafs for the Canyon? Anyone done that?
 

amrg

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BTW...the spring-over with stock springs is far superior to the spring-under with Ranchos. The SOA mod solves many problems...stance, travel, ground-clearance, lift, etc. and even though it is a PITA to do, the results are worth it.

The spring over axle would be too much off a Lift in many situations, such as mine.
 

amrg

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Not really, IMO. It's perfect, I've been off camber with no issues

there is still the pita part! I would consider doing this in the future if Im able to order the front part of the rancho kit alone. However, is there a fix for the front drive shaft?
 
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