H3 Front end differential binding, skipping, transfer case problems.

[rascole]

So I thought I would start a thread after researching many other threads to help me troubleshoot my H3.
After a mild trip off roading my front end started to bind up when ever I took a sharp turn either direction. I thought it to be like the old rear end diffs that the limited slip would stay engaged for a few turns. Not this one.
I took it to my local shop and after he looked at it, bad news. It is not the front diff. It is the transfer case viscous coupling going bad. Safe to drive but will need a TC soon. So if anyone has the info on either an upgrade or replacement please let me know. I was planning on upgrading the front diff to a CI but that may have to wait now.
Thanks in advance.

I am not sure how to easily reference other threads, but thanks to those members.

 

[Zach]

Off the top of my head, adventure t case is part number 24247592. I can check in the am. Pm me, I can get you a deal on one

 

[rascole]

Has anyone else had a transfer case go bad like this? Has anyone switched to a standard TC?

 

[cbetts]

At first, it sounded like the t-case was stuck in hi-lock. Mine will occasionally do this when I first come off a trail and cycling between lo-lock and hi-unlock usually gets it. One time I had to do the trick of driving in reverse a bit to get it unlocked.

As for other t-case issues, I have blown mine twice. Only symptom was in low range and would experience a pop noise about every 50ft. Had it rebuilt the first time and later replaced with the upgraded model that had the metal shift fork. Been good ever since then *knocks on wood*

 

[f5moab]

IF you are going to continue to drive off-road, stay with the adventure model t/case. You don't state the year of your vehicle, but the early 06 models had a problem with a shift fork; later models had metal. (And really not too sure if it was early 06 or all 06.)

 

[rascole]

At first, it sounded like the t-case was stuck in hi-lock. Mine will occasionally do this when I first come off a trail and cycling between lo-lock and hi-unlock usually gets it. One time I had to do the trick of driving in reverse a bit to get it unlocked.

As for other t-case issues, I have blown mine twice. Only symptom was in low range and would experience a pop noise about every 50ft. Had it rebuilt the first time and later replaced with the upgraded model that had the metal shift fork. Been good ever since then *knocks on wood*

So for normal street driving it works and sounds fine, only when turning into driveways does it skip the inside tire. I have done the reverse, in circles, cycling the switches, even tapped on it with a rubber mallet.
Mine is a late year 06, it was purchased in May of 06. I have not read anything on the metal fork for upgrade, is this standard on later models?

 

[atvspeed4]

Yes the metal shift fork is standard in all transfercases late 2007 on.

 

[alrock]

Do you have an Adventure model or base model - is your truck equipped with a factory rear locker, or does it not have one? A transfer case swap to another OEM one, including, if necessary, upgrading to the Adventure model 4:1 case, is an easy task. When you talk about changing to a "standard TC" are you talking about switching to a non-OEM case, like an Atlas case with manual levers?

 

[rascole]

Do you have an Adventure model or base model - is your truck equipped with a factory rear locker, or does it not have one? A transfer case swap to another OEM one, including, if necessary, upgrading to the Adventure model 4:1 case, is an easy task. When you talk about changing to a "standard TC" are you talking about switching to a non-OEM case, like an Atlas case with manual levers?

I have the Adventure with locker. I know I have the 4:1 case. Has anyone changed to a non-OEM case like an Atlas? Will swapping the plastic fork to the metal one solve most TC issues? I know that once 1 weak link is fixed another pops up. Not there is a "good" starting point with upgrading the running gear e.g. tranny, TC, shafts, half shafts, etc...
I want to remain as close to stock as possible unless there is a substantial gain or minimal extra modification. That stuff will come later once this is no longer a daily driver.

 

[alrock]

The OEM transfer case is pretty good. I would not say that this is a weak link issue that gets passed onto the next part; the plastic fork is a poor design issue. I had a base transfer case for 70,000 miles of abuse and it did quite well until I put a hole in it with a rock. I think you'll run into a lot of issues trying to put in a transfer case that isn't tied to these computers but I'm not the expert on that subject. I'm sure others will weigh in.

 

[rascole]

.. I would not say that this is a weak link issue that gets passed onto the next part..

By weak link, I meant that when you upgrade one part, something else becomes the weak link.
Who here in So Cal has had to replace the plastic fork and what shop did you use? I would like to get it done for a trip new years weekend.

 

[06 H3]

I have an 06 100k miles with a plastic shift fork no issues and I have put it in 4lo hundreds of times. The t case isn't a weak part IMO id throw the metal fork in and run it as is...

Ask cbetts about aamco they may be able to help.

 

[4speedfunk]

I agree with the durability...my stock case has taken lots of abuse and works great (also knocking on wood). In regards to swapping the T-case to something else?...Huge topic.

Although it appears that any number of T-cases would certainly bolt up to the tranny...I'm not aware of any other case that has the electronic front/rear bias ability that the H3 uses in 4HI-street mode. The only real reason I see to swap-out the stock T-case is to obtain 2WD. That entails swapping the front axle to something solid with hub disconnects (which I've already done). Several other GM trucks have a 4-mode electronic t-case (2HI/4HI-auto/4HI-lock/4LO-lock), and it might be possible to swap one of these into the H3 but, you'll loose the 4:1 crawl of the Adv. Pak. Also...I don't know if these other t-cases work with a constantly varying f-r torque bias like the H3's does. Oh yeah...and you'll have to add a fourth button somewhere for the 2WD mode. If you go aftermarket (like an Atlas)...all bets are off. You'll have to butcher the console...put stick(s) thru the floor...and live with dash lights galore. I have no idea what this would do to other electronic systems on the H3. I assume street mode and the FANTASTIC traction control would be gone forever. FWIW...I have seen an H3 with a twin-stick Atlas installed in it but, I have no information at all on it, other than a few grainy photos.

The real issue for me at this point...is trying to decide if having 2WD is worth the experimentation it would take to find a suitable replacement (and additional mods) to get it installed. I'm highly modded, and I think about this stuff a lot. Eventually...I'll probably "go-there" but, only after my stock case gives it up. This conversation doesn't really apply to anyone still running a stock front axle, because you can't disconnect the hubs anyway. So for that reason...I would stick with the stock Adv. Pak t-case if at all possible. Its really the only option you got.

 

[rascole]

All good advice. No experimentation for me. Sounds like I will be upgrading to the metal fork soon. I am not a fan of throwing good money after bad, so if a part breaks, upgrade it when possible. I will be asking around for shops who have done this case before. Even though my local shop is great, he has never worked on this TC. So I would prefer to not be his first. He is an old school builder.

 

[rascole]

So, I just picked up my H3 from Performance Four Wheel drive. Plastic shift fork was bad. New metal one installed with some new bearings that looked suspicious, now good as new. $350 ain't bad I guess, but funny that the part is only $22. As far as the viscous coupling info I got, I misunderstood the mechanic as he was referring to what they do when they go bad.
Here are the pics.

 

[alrock]

Glad you got fixed up.

 

[alrock]

Update:

Drained the diff a couple of weeks ago and there was a modest amount of shavings on the drain plug and no chunks in the case. Didn't pull the cover.

Replaced both front axles today and the axle seals. Took about 3 hours and had to use a BFH, tie rod puller and axle seal puller to get it all done. Too early to know if my sounds are gone. Used one OEM axle and one Cardone axle - new and $70. I know some don't like Cardone's but I thought I'd give it a try and take one for the team. At least now I have two trail spares, even if they are a bit worn.

Most of the install went without a hitch. One tie rod boot did tear so I'll take care of that soon.

Also, it appears that the Cardone half shaft might be about 1/2" longer than OEM. I could not persuade it to go in while leaving the lower ball joint secured, so I fully removed the knuckle to get it done. In some ways, its just easier to remove the knuckle than to contort the half shaft into place but of course you do risk damage to that lower ball joint, or at least to the boot if it has fused to the metal (like occurred with my tie rod boot).

 

[Zach]

Glad to hear you finally got them replaced Alex. Hopefully it fixes your problem