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Just curious if you combed through like DigiKey or Mouser.com ...for bulb assemblies? And then there is like ..BulbAmerica.com. I'm in agreement with you ...*Some outfit* must carry them you'd think. Let us know if you come up with any. Cheers!

Did your rig die? Hit a deer? Are you parting the whole thing out, or just going a different interior direction? Just curious. I know you spent a lot of time on the interior, and did a fantastic job!

That's the thing. No crate I-5's and GM support is rapidly dwindling. Basically just what's left over. They are prohibitively expensive to rebuild. A low mile used Colorado engine is the better way to go. But yeah, if a guy doesn't have problems, I've also seen ads where people are at 300k on...

Do you think it could be a cable vibrating against something? Have you crawled under to see if anything jumps out?

I-5's have some weaknesses and 200k is about where things go south. I'm at 200K and mine's getting weak. Regardless, you have a long way to go.. enjoy!

Can you just get a small sheet of copper tin off ebay and just rebuild your socket? Or glue a bulb into the socket and solder the pigtails to the board. Seems like an easy fix. Yeah, I have a Jeep XJ too. You can literally (well almost) buy EVERY part for those. They're like early Mustangs --...

I'd rather have a 500mile test drive than a 20 mile test drive. At least you have it back now. .. I don't know what to say on those other issues you raised. If you can't prove anything, yer going to have to fix it and focus on the good ...which is it seems like you have a great-shifting nicely...

I'll look. He sent me some pics on my phone (quite a while ago)...

Do you have any inkling if they used the same bulbs on Tahoe's or Colorado's? I've seen some duplication of Tahoe stuff, but never looked at the bulbs. Would you consider soldering bulbs directly to the board? Or a short pigtail wire on the bulb to somewhere further up the board? I know that's...

They look pretty straight forward. My buddy makes his replacement rockers out of stainless steel. I might have said that above....

Totally agree. Love it!

Hmmmm ....you stumped me. THIS is one I got for other areas (not pass side). IDK if THIS link is helpful... If not, nose around digikey and maybe you can find what you need. Do you still have the bulb base where you could install a new bulb?

Sounds like a good plan! Show us a pic when you're done ...if you go that way.

Don't weld square tube on too tight. You might have to replace someday ...they can rust out too!

I was assuming your H3's engine is an I-5, 3.7L. If it's a V8, then the water pump I linked to would be different.

Obviously if the bearing is shot, don't drive it to your mechanic's place. You could throw a fan through the radiator (or hood!) ..and/or cook the engine. Tow it.. If the bearing is still good, a guy *might* be able to put a gal of distilled water in the radiator, leave the radiator cap on...

Say, ....while you have your H3 in to your mechanic, two other often-overlooked maintenance items you might have him do: 1) Exchange the brake fluid. This should firm up the pedal and prevent internal rusting ..cause brake fluid holds moisture (to a point). If he has a brake fluid exchange...

That looks about where the wp would leak from. Take a look "up" there with a flashlight. There's a hole on the water pump neck, where the water comes out should a seal fail. And the seal probably failed bc your bearing crapped out and took the seal with it eventually. That's normal ...pretty...

How does it drive with the SAS? What's the good/bad & ugly on the conversion?