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#1 must do mod asap!!!!!

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
I got this one

http://www.amazon.com/Long-Tru-Cool...-1-fkmr0&keywords=tru+cool+24000+trans+cooler

easy install and has everything you need included.

I have the same one. My temps seem to stabilize at 90-95 F above ambient at highway speeds and around 100-105 F while in traffic and at lower speeds. Looking back I installed mine on the passenger side of the radiator vice on the drivers side where the cooling fan is. I might install a small electric fan or a second cooler to allow for more cooling at low speeds. I have also not towed anything with the cooler installed. My numbers so far are:

3.5L I-5, Tru-cool 4589, No Temp Bypass

OAT (F) - TFT High(F) - Condition - Traffic - Towing
33 - 152 - Highway/city - Light - N
40 - 156 - Highway/city - Light - N
45 - 156 - City - Medium - N
50 - 158 - Highway/city - Light - N
55 - 158 - Highway/city - Light - N
68 - 168 - Highway/city - Medium - N
78 - 178 - Highway/city - Light - N
85 - 189 - Highway/city - Heavy - N
92 - 188 - Highway/city - Medium - N
 
Last edited:

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I would replace it sooner than later and not wait till it goes. When it goes, usually it takes the trans out and no forewarning of it going. Local member here lost his at fairly low mileage.

im already bypassing the oem cooler in the radiator with a derale cooler and thermal bypass for the colder months. no more link between the trans and engine coolant.
 

chad

Well-Known Member
Messages
545
Location
florida
Well this has been taking me forever to finish this as the wife keeps wanting to do something all the time when I have a second off from work. But the question I have is does it matter what fluid line goes into the top of the trans cooler or the bottom?
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Run the line "from" the trans to the bottom and the line "to" the trans on the top. That is if you mount the cooler sideways with the ports on the side. This will allow the fluid to fill the cooler from the bottom up and push out any air bubbles...
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
If you were installing a cooler of any sort, wouldn't you pre-filled it before closing the lines and starting the engine?
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
i guess you could try it that way... but you probably wouldnt get it filled up 100% to displace all the air... and it depends on how you mount it too. vertical or horizontal. i just stated the truck, let it run for a while to open the thermal bypass, and topped it off. with the little bit i lost from opening the lines and the capacity of the new cooler, i added less than 1/2 qt...
 

KingpenM3

Active Member
Messages
28
Location
United States
Has anyone had, or heard of, a non-oem radiator failing? As the first response said, this is a very common design, and I'm assuming that the oem radiator was poorly built. So any failures other than the factory radiators?

I'd say I was on of the lucky ones that had the top of my radiator crack and had to replace it because of that before I had any internal leaking.
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Has anyone had, or heard of, a non-oem radiator failing? As the first response said, this is a very common design, and I'm assuming that the oem radiator was poorly built. So any failures other than the factory radiators?

I'd say I was on of the lucky ones that had the top of my radiator crack and had to replace it because of that before I had any internal leaking.
No internal failure, but the replacement did start weaping fluid after about 3 years at the lower tank connectors for the rigid lines. I don't know if that is from the o-ring, or (as I suspect) from loose jamnuts on the fittings themselves.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Sadly, this is a very old game. Players change but game stays the same.
I took heed 2 years ago and replaced rad and added cooler for trans......to be free of this headache before it came.
 

Vdawg1115

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Oakland, CA
So only the factory radiators are prone to crack right? I recently replaced mine with a CSF all aluminum dual core. The teams lines run into it.....yall are scaring me
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,465
Location
Wisconsin
Your know the cost to repair is so high I just felt like it should be done. Not saying yours is gonna have problems though. I just don't need the frightening outcome. Mind you the probability of failure is percent wise small according to statistics.
 

humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
My friend has 2 e fans set up, one that replaces the clutch, and another 16" further out to help push air in.

He recently installed an aluminum radiator. His fluid temps are 40 degrees F higher than desired.

Is this something several air bubbles in the radiator can cause?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rjwilson

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
south dakota
Hey humvee, did you ever figure out your friends problem? Ive replaced the POS oem radiator twice, texas heat maybe, and there can be trapped air. I'm mounting some other all aluminum radiator if I leak again. One solution i know of is putting the front in at an incline and running the engine. [video=youtube;nThsFGa1vuE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nThsFGa1vuE[/video]
 

humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
Thanks man, sorry I just saw this. He struggled for a while, all seems in order now that winter is here so we might have to wait till summer to know for sure.

I think its the trans cooler.

I recently did the oem cooler bypass too. Chose a slightly large unit, which blocked some of the airflow into the rad, AC stopped cooling. Added 2 efans up front and all is solved, but the fans are always on now. Will invest in bigger fans when these give up, possibly should go one size down with the trans cooler too.

Very happy with this setup.
 
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