Adding oem rear locker

[DJinCO]

What if you had one switch to power the air pump and the second to activate the locker?
How is the air locker more critical than an e-locker? If the single switch on the e-locker is activated wouldn't the same thing happen?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

What about an ARB air locker?
I am contemplating this myself.

ARBs are, imo, the best option - but they cost ~1200 for the locker, and you need a compressor (another 300); that makes them 3x more expensive then the electric ones (500). Also, electric doesn't leak or require pressure hoses to operate.

 

[DJinCO]

Forgive my ignorance... the 4:1 transfer case and the rear locker together make the adventure package. If one installs an air locker on the Base H3 what is lost by not having the 4:1 transfer case?

 

[MaxPF]

and eventually, the detroit tru-trac will lock the wheels up completely

No, it won't. I've seen plenty of people wheel tru-tracs, and they end up getting replaced with ARBs or Detroits as soon as the owner can afford it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Forgive my ignorance... the 4:1 transfer case and the rear locker together make the adventure package. If one installs an air locker on the Base H3 what is lost by not having the 4:1 transfer case?

the 4:1 transfer case is a big deal with the 5 cyl, not so much with the V8. 4:1 transfer case lets your crawl slowly

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

No, it won't. I've seen plenty of people wheel tru-tracs, and they end up getting replaced with ARBs or Detroits as soon as the owner can afford it.

interesting - so you know everything.... I'll remember that next time I have a question on something.

 

[MaxPF]

interesting - so you know everything.... I'll remember that next time I have a question on something.

You're right, I should shut up. True-tracs are the most awesomest traction aids on the planet. After all, Hummer, Jeep, Dodge, and Toyota all chose to install Tru-tracs in their upscale offerings rather than actual selectable lockers.

Oh, wait... no they didn't......... :roll:

 

[Steve #1]

Are the plugs installed already,
If I were to pick up the 4x4 cluster w/ rear locker switch and and adventure rear axle would I simply plug them in to the oem plugs.

I know the cluster has the same plug as the non rear locker cluster. Is there a plug under the truck already wired?




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me too, no idea why you'd ever willingly wire the computer to control the locker.

Sorry, I was answering the original question. Why would you wire the computer to control the locker? Because that is the way that GM designed it.

The transfer case control module controls the operation of the locker. I don't know if the transfer case control module is "max wired" or not. If it is, if a pigtail was plugged in to the harness and connected to a locker it still would not work because the transfer case control module is not programmed to control a locker (they can be re flashed).

The switch on the dash doesn't just turn power on and off for the locker. When you press the switch (or any of the transfer case control switches) it alters the voltage on a reference signal going to the transfer case control module. The module then provides power to the locker if the transfer case is in 4LO and the vehicle speed is under whatever the vehicle speed must be for the locker to engage.

 

[Steve #1]

While I'm at it, I'll throw my $.02 in on the subject of True-tracs. To imply that they are a better option than a selectable locker for the H3 is along the lines of making the argument that cassettes are better than CDs and touting all the benefits that cassettes have over records. True-tracs do have advantages over automatic lockers on street driven vehicles that don't have things like electronic traction and stability control. The H3 has these systems so the argument holds no weight.

 

[Schwarttzy]

I think a Tru-Trac would be great in the front differential. I don't know of any that would fit the H3 front diff. But it's great because it will never fully lock up. Which should make applying too much force challenging, thus saving your front end. Also I enjoy the benefits in the snow. When I had my Grand Cherokee with a Tru-Trac installed the vehicle had a tendency to pull straight despite the conditions. It's always there and should go unnoticed, except for the added traction.

I'm starting to think that if you dropped down from a 7.6 carrier to a 7.5 GM, that it might fit. If that's the case, then a Tru-Trac for a GM 7.5 would fit in there. If you go to Yukon Gear and plug in the H3 Hummer you'll see that the R&P is interchangeable between the two axles. Which hint at it being very close.

 

[4speedfunk]

BTW...Eaton has redesigned the GM 8.6" E-locker. If u buy a brand new one, it will come with a dog-ring type of engagement instead of the round pins that many H3 owners have had problems with.

For this reason...factory AP axles have slipped a notch or two on my wish list. If u can find a killer deal on one (say $500 or so for the whole axle)...then okay. But beyond this price...it makes a lot of sense to buy the new version and install it in place of your single track diff.

For the record...I would only consider a selectable locker, and there are really only three choices IMO: Eaton, Ox, or ARB. Realize the internet is full of opinions.


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[ZWilson07]

BTW...Eaton has redesigned the GM 8.6" E-locker. If u buy a brand new one, it will come with a dog-ring type of engagement instead of the round pins that many H3 owners have had problems with.

For this reason...factory AP axles have slipped a notch or two on my wish list. If u can find a killer deal on one (say $500 or so for the whole axle)...then okay. But beyond this price...it makes a lot of sense to buy the new version and install it in place of your single track diff.

For the record...I would only consider a selectable locker, and there are really only three choices IMO: Eaton, Ox, or ARB. Realize the internet is full of opinions.


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Awesome.

I like the cleanness of the factory setup but if you are adding a front locker, or especially a front and rear locker, its hard to not want to go aftermarket vs buying the factory units unless like you said you could pick up the factory ones for a much cheaper price.

 

[DJinCO]

I checked today with the local 4x4 shop... $2415 for the rear whole kit-n-kaboodle for ARB locker, pump, switches, installed.

 

[Bigunit]

Holy moley...that would buy 4 OEM Eaton lockers, races, bearings and wiring harnesses. For 97% percent of H3 owners that want lockers but wheel maybe twice a year, the ARB route doesn't make much sense unless you have money to burn.

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[MaxPF]

Awesome.

I like the cleanness of the factory setup but if you are adding a front locker, or especially a front and rear locker, its hard to not want to go aftermarket vs buying the factory units unless like you said you could pick up the factory ones for a much cheaper price.

Eaton E-Lockers are sold aftermarket. You don't have to pay the dealer markup for them.

 

[Highatop]

Holy moley...that would buy 4 OEM Eaton lockers, races, bearings and wiring harnesses. For 97% percent of H3 owners that want lockers but wheel maybe twice a year, the ARB route doesn't make much sense unless you have money to burn.

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2X, But, if you go that way...make sure your whole air system works for you all the time. Not just lockers, air also and out of the way(rear door) Me, leanin toward an E locker on its own... Hi or low...I get to choose...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Holy moley...that would buy 4 OEM Eaton lockers, races, bearings and wiring harnesses. For 97% percent of H3 owners that want lockers but wheel maybe twice a year, the ARB route doesn't make much sense unless you have money to burn.

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I wheel no less than twice a month, and I've had the rear e-locker since 2007 - never broken it, granted, it's two different H3s; but I also think type of wheeling and how hard you push it has far more to do with it than anything else.

I also spent 1/3 for an e-locker ($500)... and according to Randy's Ring and Pinion, you can't buy an e-locker for the AAM 760....

However, the biggest detractor for the ARB was listening to them whistle because they were leaking and watching them not stay engaged...

 

[MaxPF]

Holy moley...that would buy 4 OEM Eaton lockers, races, bearings and wiring harnesses. For 97% percent of H3 owners that want lockers but wheel maybe twice a year, the ARB route doesn't make much sense unless you have money to burn.

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To be fair he did say that was the installed price. A DIY install would lower the price considerably.

 

[ZWilson07]

Eaton E-Lockers are sold aftermarket. You don't have to pay the dealer markup for them.

Yeah, I forgot the "factory" units are just E-Lockers :shame:

Carry on lol.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Yeah, I forgot the "factory" units are just E-Lockers :shame:

Carry on lol.

When I was talking to Randy's, they commented that the e-locker is an eaton and that eaton, if you ask them, deny they built it...

 

[Bigunit]

No they don't. It was on their factory parst/spec list.

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[DJinCO]

This is where I come for the facts. So please give me some insight.

I have been told that the eLocker is slow to engage, has issues of random engage and disengage when needed.
The 4x4 place says that eLockers are old technology and the ARB is on cutting edge of lockers.
Again, told of the greatness of the ARB product and air leaks are only from "other guys".

Yes, $2415 was more than I was willing to budget for a locker. My need for a locker is to keep me out of trouble. My off-road experience is the weekend excursions of the trails and searching for rocks/stones. I don't really air up/down because it's not that necessary for our type of off-road travels.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

This is where I come for the facts. So please give me some insight.

I have been told that the eLocker is slow to engage, has issues of random engage and disengage when needed.
The 4x4 place says that eLockers are old technology and the ARB is on cutting edge of lockers.
Again, told of the greatness of the ARB product and air leaks are only from "other guys".

Yes, $2415 was more than I was willing to budget for a locker. My need for a locker is to keep me out of trouble. My off-road experience is the weekend excursions of the trails and searching for rocks/stones. I don't really air up/down because it's not that necessary for our type of off-road travels.

when run through the BCM, the e-lockers do seem quite slow to engage. When run through a switch, the effect is instantaneous... and no rattling air compressor

 

[RamRod]

This is where I come for the facts. So please give me some insight.
My off-road experience is the weekend excursions of the trails and searching for rocks/stones. I don't really air up/down because it's not that necessary for our type of off-road travels.

If your not airing down on trails, save yourself $2k, spend $60 on some deflaitors and around $100 on a quick compressor and you will increase you capabilities way more and not be spending nearly as much

Plus, gravel road when aired down are so smooth!



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[DJinCO]

Thanks. I think I need to explore the installed cost of an Eaton E-Locker. For the relatively low use, probably not more than 10 times per year, it seems dumb to drop $2500 (with tax) on a rear locker.