RamRod
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Do you see any flow difference now that you have had the new fliter in?
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Adventr 2009 Championship Build
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adventr
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Actually only driven it about 5 miles since putting the filter in.
I'll know more when I check it this weekend. Going to be fabricating my own intake pipe to replace the factory baffled piece.
Hoping that between the intake piece and the air filter that it frees it up some. It should anyway.
I'll know more when I check it this weekend. Going to be fabricating my own intake pipe to replace the factory baffled piece.
Hoping that between the intake piece and the air filter that it frees it up some. It should anyway.
adventr
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Got to drive it around for an hour this morning.
Overall, there is a noticeable difference with the new filter. Not a huge difference, but it is noticeable. The MAF also shows the difference in airflow. What used to produce ~550-600cfm, now registers at ~700-750cfm. The snorkel produces a more pronounced growl as well.
I got on the throttle a bit in 2nd gear, and saw it hit over 1000cfm.
Overall, there is a noticeable difference with the new filter. Not a huge difference, but it is noticeable. The MAF also shows the difference in airflow. What used to produce ~550-600cfm, now registers at ~700-750cfm. The snorkel produces a more pronounced growl as well.
I got on the throttle a bit in 2nd gear, and saw it hit over 1000cfm.
RamRod
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Good to know! with the Supercharger I need all the CFM I can get
derian06
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My bullydog scanner has a MAF reading, but it only reads around 55-75 so i'm not sure if it is the same reading or not.
RamRod
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quick question about the projector install:
What does the back of the OEM headlight bucket look like after this install? did you just have to trim the shroud or did you have to cut into the headlight bucket as well to get things to fit?
What does the back of the OEM headlight bucket look like after this install? did you just have to trim the shroud or did you have to cut into the headlight bucket as well to get things to fit?
adventr
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This is pretty much what the back of the headlight cutout looks like. I did end up tapering the inside of the reflector bowl (material thickness) around the cut line. I did that to recess the projector as much as I could.
Ideally with these projectors, you don't need to cut the back of the reflector housing. But the headlight was too shallow for the lens to go back on (lens hit projector), so I had to get creative.
This is what the end result was, with the projector installed and sealed up. I had to make that big hex shaped washer that you see. The headlight cutout ended up being bigger than the projector mounting nut, so I needed a way to get it tightened down. The silicone ring sealed up around the cutout, and the big washer allowed the nut to tighten up solid.
Once all of that was done, I completely filled the inside of the reflector housing with JB Weld, which then ran through the reflector cutout, and filled up that silicone seal. Nothing is getting inside of those headlights now.... LOL
Also, I didn't have to do any mods to the actual headlight mounting bracket that is bolted to the core support. That washer that I made just BARELY fits through the hole, but it clears.
RamRod
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Was this because of the 3" projectors used? If I were to go with one of the smaller guys think there would be the same issue?
adventr
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Yeah, I think that the Mini H1 projectors would fit a lot better. I almost went that route, but after talking with TRS, the D2S 3.0 performs better, so I figured I'd just make it work....
After seeing the output on these things, I'd have no problem buying them again.
adventr
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Not sure, but it may be just scaling down the sensor value? Almost seems like yours is dividing by 10 maybe.
adventr
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Notice anything different between these 2 pics????
Decided to toss a badge on there...
Also spent a few minutes and came up with a different gauge layout for my Torque Pro App (looks way better in person, camera phone doesn't like it)
Decided to toss a badge on there...
Also spent a few minutes and came up with a different gauge layout for my Torque Pro App (looks way better in person, camera phone doesn't like it)
Ghostbuster
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Nice badge I put one on mine as well. What headunit do you have?
RamRod
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Looks good man!
adventr
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adventr
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It's just an Android 4.2.2 headunit from ebay. Like $280 shipped or something, and WELL worth it. Been sitting in the box since last December. Originally purchased it to go in my Z car, but figured I'd get more use out of it in the H3.
I've since updated it to Android 4.4.4, and tweaked a few other things on it. There's a whole forum out there dedicated to these headunits, one thread has like 1500+ replies, so if you have the time and need another hobby (I sure don't!) then there is some really cool stuff that you can do with these.
Thanks!
adventr
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Some of my parts came in today, and I couldn't wait to get started on my air intake.
I ordered all of the soft parts and clamps from www.siliconeintakes.com (Included a pic of the receipt showing parts list). I almost went with a piece of 3.5" aluminum tube from them as well, but decided I wanted stainless. So I picked up a small section of 304SS to go along with it (not available from that site, bought this piece locally).
Here is what I started out with:
Here are my parts for building the intake:
You can see that I used a Hump Hose connector for the air box. This allows for a little more engine movement than a straight coupler. The airbox outlet is a bit larger than 3.5", but the hump hose connector was easily slid into place. If you look at my parts list, you can see where I actually ordered a 3.75" clamp for the airbox side.
You have to trim quite a bit off of the throttle body side of that 90° reducer. This is to get it lined up with the air box, and also to clear the fan. I just held the piece in place, and made a few marks with my silver sharpie, and trimmed with a sharp razor blade. Trim a little at a time (around 3/8" or so) until you get it close. Then you can take your sharpie and make some better marks for the final trim.
Once both hose connectors are installed (throttle body and air box), and you hold your piece of tubing up to the connectors, and mark it for length. I just cut it with a cutoff wheel, and then hit it with a flap disc. Also used a file on the inside edges of the tube to deburr.
Before installing the tube, I "brushed" it with a scotch pad, to give it a nice finish.
**** The intake tube is NOT 100% complete in these photos. I still need to add a nipple for the valve cover breather line. I ordered a stainless fitting that I will TIG onto the tube, but it didn't deliver today ****
This pic shows the fan clearance. Looks to be enough. I had a buddy sit inside the rig and power brake it, and the engine doesn't move much at all. Never came close to touching.
I'll update again tomorrow after the stainless fitting gets here and I weld it into place.
I ordered all of the soft parts and clamps from www.siliconeintakes.com (Included a pic of the receipt showing parts list). I almost went with a piece of 3.5" aluminum tube from them as well, but decided I wanted stainless. So I picked up a small section of 304SS to go along with it (not available from that site, bought this piece locally).
Here is what I started out with:
Here are my parts for building the intake:
You can see that I used a Hump Hose connector for the air box. This allows for a little more engine movement than a straight coupler. The airbox outlet is a bit larger than 3.5", but the hump hose connector was easily slid into place. If you look at my parts list, you can see where I actually ordered a 3.75" clamp for the airbox side.
You have to trim quite a bit off of the throttle body side of that 90° reducer. This is to get it lined up with the air box, and also to clear the fan. I just held the piece in place, and made a few marks with my silver sharpie, and trimmed with a sharp razor blade. Trim a little at a time (around 3/8" or so) until you get it close. Then you can take your sharpie and make some better marks for the final trim.
Once both hose connectors are installed (throttle body and air box), and you hold your piece of tubing up to the connectors, and mark it for length. I just cut it with a cutoff wheel, and then hit it with a flap disc. Also used a file on the inside edges of the tube to deburr.
Before installing the tube, I "brushed" it with a scotch pad, to give it a nice finish.
**** The intake tube is NOT 100% complete in these photos. I still need to add a nipple for the valve cover breather line. I ordered a stainless fitting that I will TIG onto the tube, but it didn't deliver today ****
This pic shows the fan clearance. Looks to be enough. I had a buddy sit inside the rig and power brake it, and the engine doesn't move much at all. Never came close to touching.
I'll update again tomorrow after the stainless fitting gets here and I weld it into place.
Ghostbuster
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Very nice!
RamRod
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That looks great! !
adventr
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Thanks guys.
Still waiting on USPS. Normally, they're here by 10am everyday. EXCEPT on the days where I'm waiting on a delivery, of course.
Still waiting on USPS. Normally, they're here by 10am everyday. EXCEPT on the days where I'm waiting on a delivery, of course.
adventr
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Got the fitting in the mail. Got it off ebay from a beverage company for like $2 shipped.
It's a stainless 1/4" to 3/8" nipple. Worked great for this, as the 1/4" side allows for a nice transition through the stainless air tube.
Drilled a hole in the air tube, just large enough for the 1/4" side to drop through.
Fits great
Then I cut the 1/4" side down, to around 1/8" long. This allows it to just barely protrude into the tube.
After that, cleaned the fitting up with a file, and did a test fit
Once happy with the fitment, I fused the pieces together.
At that point, I cleaned up the tube again. Gave it a fresh brushing with the scotch pad, and cleaned up the weld area.
Time to tackle the valve cover vent... After pulling off the factory hose, a piece of 3/8" hose fits perfectly in place.
With that done, I simply re-installed everything!
All done.
It's a stainless 1/4" to 3/8" nipple. Worked great for this, as the 1/4" side allows for a nice transition through the stainless air tube.
Drilled a hole in the air tube, just large enough for the 1/4" side to drop through.
Fits great
Then I cut the 1/4" side down, to around 1/8" long. This allows it to just barely protrude into the tube.
After that, cleaned the fitting up with a file, and did a test fit
Once happy with the fitment, I fused the pieces together.
At that point, I cleaned up the tube again. Gave it a fresh brushing with the scotch pad, and cleaned up the weld area.
Time to tackle the valve cover vent... After pulling off the factory hose, a piece of 3/8" hose fits perfectly in place.
With that done, I simply re-installed everything!
All done.
RamRod
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Looks great!!!!
adventr
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Always a good day when you come home to parts waiting at the front door. Thanks for the hood handles, WillieMo!
adventr
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Update on the air intake setup:
I opened up the throttle some today when merging into traffic. Absolutely no issue with power in this thing....
Once home, I decided to check out the filter-minder to see how far it was pulled down. Typically, in daily driving, it won't move at all, but when I get on it pretty hard it will.
Before the new intake assembly, I could get it down to the 80% mark, so I was curious what it would be at today.
Here it is, just barely pulled down past the first mark (25% or so). Completely acceptable in my opinion, considering the lengthy air duct for the snorkel.
So going by that observation, removing the factory resonated intake did seem to help out.
I opened up the throttle some today when merging into traffic. Absolutely no issue with power in this thing....
Once home, I decided to check out the filter-minder to see how far it was pulled down. Typically, in daily driving, it won't move at all, but when I get on it pretty hard it will.
Before the new intake assembly, I could get it down to the 80% mark, so I was curious what it would be at today.
Here it is, just barely pulled down past the first mark (25% or so). Completely acceptable in my opinion, considering the lengthy air duct for the snorkel.
So going by that observation, removing the factory resonated intake did seem to help out.
adventr
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Ambient air temp today was in the 80s, along with 60% humidity. Had to run some errands around town this afternoon, and was driving in a lot of stop/go traffic. Was monitoring the Torque app, and noticed that my transmission temp was getting up around 200 degrees. That's not horrible, but it's not summer yet. LOL
Decided to do something about it before the heat gets here. Had been looking at different trans coolers online, just hadn't decided which one to buy. Did my usual Craigslist search first thing this morning, and spotted a brand-new-in-box transmission cooler with a fan!
It's a B&M 70297. Has a SPAL fan, built in on/off switch (175° ON), and an internal bypass for cold weather use.
Quick search online shows that it's a $300 cooler. Scored it for $100. :thumbs:
I'll get some more parts ordered up for it and install this weekend. My plan is to just bypass the radiator trans cooler, and run straight to this thing. Since it has an internal fluid bypass, it should be fine for use in the winter time as well.
My engine oil temps do seem to run quite a bit higher than my coolant and trans temps, so I'm thinking about adding some engine oil cooler lines, and running them into the transmission cooler spot on the radiator....
Decided to do something about it before the heat gets here. Had been looking at different trans coolers online, just hadn't decided which one to buy. Did my usual Craigslist search first thing this morning, and spotted a brand-new-in-box transmission cooler with a fan!
It's a B&M 70297. Has a SPAL fan, built in on/off switch (175° ON), and an internal bypass for cold weather use.
Quick search online shows that it's a $300 cooler. Scored it for $100. :thumbs:
I'll get some more parts ordered up for it and install this weekend. My plan is to just bypass the radiator trans cooler, and run straight to this thing. Since it has an internal fluid bypass, it should be fine for use in the winter time as well.
My engine oil temps do seem to run quite a bit higher than my coolant and trans temps, so I'm thinking about adding some engine oil cooler lines, and running them into the transmission cooler spot on the radiator....
