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Are these rotors bad?

Reloader

Reloader

Well-Known Member
Messages
413
Location
Montana a free state
Looks like rotors have some hot spots causing variations in parallelism of the surfaces that can create the symptoms you speak of. Rotor surface condition looks poor too. Time for new rotors and pads. Are those slip on rotors or do you have hubs with greasable barrens where the wheel studs hold the rotors to the hubs.
You also could have a sticking caliper causing pads to drag and heat up rotor turning it blue. Carefully check caliper pistons for sticking and slides too. Possible front brake hose is collapsing internally causing residual pressure in caliper causing drag. Do brakes pull at all?
pop for good quality rotors not the cheapo white box **** at Autozone or O Reilly's .
 
07Custom

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Good to know. Physically they did not feel like there were grooves but they just didn't look right.

A couple of really close calls and slamming my brakes seem to have one these in.

Time to buy some drilled / slotted rotors.
 
07Custom

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
I'm not sure. After I installed CJs kit everything was fine for almost a year.

The only thing I think could be the issue is that I had two really close calls. Slammed my breaks and thought I was definitely going to crash. It seems like that's when it generally started happening. Cheap rotors could have warped from the heat? I went from 37s to 35s as well, which I don't think is a problem.

My braided brake lines are fine, but I'm going to check and grease the caliper slider pins.

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk
 
rascole

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,852
Location
Bellflower, CA
looks like they got too hot. I would resurface the rotors and put new pads on. Have you flushed the fluid ever? Now would be a good time
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Forget resurfacing rotors. Nowadays it's cheaper (and better) to just replace them.
Make sure your new rotors sit flat against the Dana hub flanges...sometimes the six holes must be drilled out (9/16" bit) so the rotors don't get put in a bind on the shoulders of the wheel studs. Look closely and you'll see the studs get larger right where the threads stop (the last 1/4" of them). It's easy to overlook this issue. So make sure your rotors sit all the way down against the hub flanges.
H3 calipers are solidly mounted and don't have slider pins like traditional single piston calipers. They do have some small stainless steel slider clips that snap into the calipers and the pads ride back & forth on these clips. These clips are usually included with new pads but, you can get new ones separately.. You should put a small squirt of caliper grease in the groves of these clips (where the pads ride). Also there are two "anti-rattle" springs that should be installed on each caliper.
 
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07Custom

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Yes. I've had my ABS working for quite some time. This brake judder nonsense is Rather new. No abs lights go on or anything. It's always at lower speeds too. I've noticed that I can see some space/light between the inner driver side pad and the rotor which is new.

I'll sort all of this out. The truck is driving and handling really well lately. Tighter steering with new heims is great haha

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk
 
07Custom

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
I'm going to check it all out when I pull things apart. Tires are wearing fine now since I adjusted the camber. I can just pull on the hub to see if it moves right?

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk
 
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