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Bebe's Hollywood Half/Tube Doors

JoshuaL

NEVERENDING ADDICTION
Messages
254
Location
Mineral Bluff GA
Hey bebe, how did you disconnect the wires on the back doors? Did you make a quick disconnect harness? Are you going to buy a new fender for the back door or are they easy enough to swap back and forth from the oem doors and tube doors? I've been wanting to do this for a while and those are the concerns I have.
THANKS. Joshua
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Hey bebe, how did you disconnect the wires on the back doors? Remove the grommet and disconnect the plug

Did you make a quick disconnect harness? no

Are you going to buy a new fender for the back door or are they easy enough to swap back and forth from the oem doors and tube doors? We are going to use them on the new doors - easy to swap

I've been wanting to do this for a while and those are the concerns I have.
THANKS. Joshua

A few little 10mm bolt head screws and the clips pop off with a pair of long angles needle nose pliers. Don't break them.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Todays Progress:

Design change to accommodate body lines and hinge mounting points

IMG_20120627_164924.jpg


Tube only without fender

IMG_5460.jpg


Tube only WITH Fender

IMG_5462.jpg


Rear skin mock up

IMG_5454.jpg


Rick posing for arm - rest height

IMG_5456.jpg


Front door skin mock up

IMG_5457.jpg


I LIKE IT!!! A LOT!!!
 

H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
That is going to be really cool looking!! I like that the lower half of the door opening is still covered so you don't get a bunch of crap in there. I also like that you can actually lean out your "window" to see the obstacle under your truck. :cheers:
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
Yeah!!! They're right on the money. Like you Bebe, I originally wanted to find OEM doors and convert them to half doors. After this, it may not be necessary. Thanks for all the effort and dedication!!!!!!

PS The only thing I would do differently, is that I would make the door skins to simulate the HMMWV ones. I would add some reinforcing bends just for looks. I know. I know. I like to take things too far. :D


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone
 

Big2dabank

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,220
Location
Central Florida
Looks super cool, I like the tube look better than the skin, but keeping crap out of the truck is always nice. Definately removable skins for me. You guys and all your cool fab work are killing me. All I have around me is a bunch of rednecks building mud trucks.
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Hollywood came on to PBB and made a comment/description of the work

Theses dam things are such a box! And the hinges make every thing so difficult! I really wanted to make the body lines work with the doors still, so they don't look dumb. On top of that, the door seals at the bottom are very important due to the ECM being behind the kick plate on the floor board!

We sloped the doors to follow the roof line then kicked it back up at the front door to meet up with the hood, giving the side opening and the windshield a pissed of aggressive look... In my mind....

I'm so happy you like!

Ok back to work.... Next is figuring out the new door latches and buttons on the door switch'eszeszz?
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Yeah!!! They're right on the money. Like you Bebe, I originally wanted to find OEM doors and convert them to half doors. After this, it may not be necessary. Thanks for all the effort and dedication!!!!!!

PS The only thing I would do differently, is that I would make the door skins to simulate the HMMWV ones. I would add some reinforcing bends just for looks. I know. I know. I like to take things too far. :D


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

It's not too late - show me what you mean because I think it's already in the works
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
Gotcha:

The Hinges on the 3 are on the inside.

Not sure where I can find mold for the raised panel BUT!!! I could have the raised portion CNC cut on a plasma table and then welded on like a second skin. It would look raised.
 

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
Gotcha:

The Hinges on the 3 are on the inside.

Not sure where I can find mold for the raised panel BUT!!! I could have the raised portion CNC cut on a plasma table and then welded on like a second skin. It would look raised.

That's the idea I had since you would need a molded press to do it the "right" way.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone
 
Last edited:

ReconH3

Guardian Angel
Messages
2,288
Location
Raleigh, NC
Painteddoors2.jpg

Here's a very quick mod of your pic so you get an idea. Even though I think you already have pretty good idea. :)
 

bebe

Moderator
Messages
1,375
Location
Dayton, NV
I really like it! Got my gears turning !

attachment-187.jpg


I like bigger pics :)

We went Saturday morning to pick up the aluminum sheet for the skins. 2 4x8 sheets of .063/5052 were $108.48 each. ($217)

Tube was $6.00 a foot and we bought 60 feet of 1.5" .090 wall. We have one stick left. ($360)

I went to the Warehouse Paint Store here in Auburn and was able to have them mix 4 cans of the OEM black into spray cans for me at $21.75 per can. ($88)

I picked up some epoxy primer - 4 cans for $7 each. ($28)

Latches at Pick-n-pull off an early 90's Isuzu Trooper ($40)

So we are $750ish in materials.

The JK doors Run about $270 each for similar construction except they are fabric not aluminum. ($1080 + S&H) I did some research and the doors that are like mine (Steel and Alum. Skinned on Tube frames) can run up to $3,000.00!

Some of the finer details include the latch mechanism and door pulls, and the mounting for the flare, and the tabs that touch the sensors for the "door open" warning and the interior lights.

So far so good, hopefully she'll be home tomorrow :)
 
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