Cgalpha08's build

[Gpcalero]

Cranked through a lot of things in the past couple of months, but she's finally back on all 4s.
New:
-Yukon Chromoly axle shafts
-diff cover bolts
-wheel bearings
-ball joints (both sides)
-solid axle forged spindles (old ones looked wrong, like the bearing was spinning on the spindle, figured id rather be safe than sorry)
-Spindle bearing
-axle seals
-hub seals
-lockouts
-re routed a ram assist line
-new headlights
-Belt tensioner (old one was visibly wobbling)

Still need to adjust the alignment and add diff fluid, but the big stuff is done
Ill re check the wheel bearing preload after putting some miles on it.

Hell yeah! Almost time to put some miles on her wheeling!


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[H3Hummer]

Cranked through a lot of things in the past couple of months, but she's finally back on all 4s.
New:
-Yukon Chromoly axle shafts
-diff cover bolts
-wheel bearings
-ball joints (both sides)
-solid axle forged spindles (old ones looked wrong, like the bearing was spinning on the spindle, figured id rather be safe than sorry)
-Spindle bearing
-axle seals
-hub seals
-lockouts
-re routed a ram assist line
-new headlights
-Belt tensioner (old one was visibly wobbling)

Still need to adjust the alignment and add diff fluid, but the big stuff is done
Ill re check the wheel bearing preload after putting some miles on it.

well, can't wait to see the result :dance

 

[cgalpha08]

I also started working on some half doors. Just doing the driver door for now. I got it all cut, next step is to get some sheet metal and weld a top to it.

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[cgalpha08]

For the headlights, I switched to morimoto super 7 v2.0, supposedly the best on the market bi-led projector. They were clocked upside down when I got them, so I had to rotate the projector 180 degrees. They are designed to come apart so you can paint them or do whatever.

I had to dremel put the factory mount because these are much deeper than the cheapo Amazon ones.

You can see the beam pattern below, high snd low beam, along with the adapter wiring harness. The wiring harness shown below plugs in the polarity convertor harness.

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[cgalpha08]

Had a chance to take some night shots. Low and high beams.

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[Korby7]

Light output looks amazing :thumbs:

 

[cgalpha08]

Did some more work on my half door. Worked on getting the inner and outer panels level, and test fitted it. Up next will be to cut the top piece and weld it on.

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[Gpcalero]

Did some more work on my half door. Worked on getting the inner and outer panels level, and test fitted it. Up next will be to cut the top piece and weld it on.

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Looks so bad ass with the half door!

Might have to get me a set for doing something similar


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[cgalpha08]

This is what the height looks like with a human in the seat. It's pretty close to perfect, maybe a couple inches higher would be rhe sweet spot.

I also started cutting and test fitting some if the top plates. Didn't get much further than that as I need to pick up some smaller diameter welding wire.

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[Korby7]

Looks good :thumbs:

 

[4speedfunk]

.025” wire?


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[cgalpha08]

.025” wire?


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Yessir. Basically turned the machine down as low as it would go and then tacked it all the way around to try and prevent it from burning through. The top and bottom angled portions for the middle plate I struggled with getting good welds and grinding it smooth. So I used some JB weld go make it smooth.

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[cgalpha08]

Mocked up the door again with the grab handle and mirror.

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[H3Hummer]

well, can't wait to see it finish on color ....

 

[cgalpha08]

Awhile back I had orderd some chromoly rear axle shafts for the 10 bolt. These are from nitro gear and axle.

https://www.nitro-gear.com/GM-8-6-Nitro-Rear-Axle-Shaft-p/axg40022632.htm

I had originally put some factory oem wheels studs in them, however after I installed the axle shafts I realized that there wasn't enough thread engagement on the lug nut for my comfort. I picked up some ARP wheel studs (100-7725) they are 2.5 inches long.

I did have to drill out the stud holes, as the ARP studs have a .509" knurl diameter, and the factory ones have roughly a .47" knurl diameter. I used a reamer that was .4995", which puts the hole at roughly .0095" smaller than the arp studs. ARP calls for between .006" and .016" smaller, after cutting the holes all came out to about .498"-.496" which is .011"-.013" smaller than the knurl diameter, so right in spec.
I used a drill block to center the reamer over the hole and used a chucking reamer vs a drill bit to get the clearance.

I realize I may have been fine because I think I had the same amount of thread engagement before, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. You can see below the difference in length of the 2 wheel studs, and roughly how much thread engagement I had with the oem studs.

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[Gpcalero]

Good stuff. Either way, those ARP studs are probably better than the OEM ones anyways.

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[H3Hummer]

Those studs are tuff, like i ment before a little blingbling but heavy stuff :thumbs:

 

[4speedfunk]

Cg…how did the drilling go?

Some aftermarket shafts are so hard they cannot be touched by a hand drill/bit.

 

[cgalpha08]

Cg…how did the drilling go?

Some aftermarket shafts are so hard they cannot be touched by a hand drill/bit.

Went really well!
This is what I used

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[cgalpha08]

Pritchett canyon video

https://youtu.be/wfGGEr0Wd9w

Going up hells gate

https://youtu.be/lhNUZYiJDqk

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[Gpcalero]

Pritchett canyon video

https://youtu.be/wfGGEr0Wd9w

Going up hells gate

https://youtu.be/lhNUZYiJDqk

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:horns:

 

[cgalpha08]

Got a bunch of parts in. Overhauling the steering system. PSC CBR pump, PSC reservoir, goatbilt relocation pump and fragola PTFE stainless steel braided lines. I'm going this route for a few reasons.
1. More pressure.
2. Remote reservoir, allowing for it to be mounted up high, and will help with clearance next to the steering box, hopefully no more need to space it off of the frame.
3. I can now mount a cooler in front of the radiator since the reservoir will be up high vs down low.
The high pressure line is -8, the return line is all -6, and the feed line from the reservoir is -12 AN.

I'll be working on this over the next couple of months when I get time.

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[H3Hummer]

Well, get a wrench buddy :wink: time to get the hands dirt :giggle:

 

[cgalpha08]

I dented my oem rear diff cover in moab a smidge, so i figured it was good insurance to get an aftermarket heavy duty cover. I got this one from 999offroad.

GM 10 Bolt Heavy Duty Diff Cover Rear (8.6") - 999 Offroad

* Fits GM 10 Bolt rear axles with 8.6″ ring gear * Will fit all 2006-2010 HUMMER H3/H3T * Made from 1/4″ steel with 3/8″ steel mounting flanges. * Jig welded inside and out. * Features DRAIN & FILL PLUGS. *Comes sandblasted bare metal or powder coated semi-gloss black. * Comes standard with...

999offroad.com

The website has it with a drain plug. I had them make it without the drain plug since we already have one, plus one less thing to mess up.

 

[cgalpha08]

Haven't done much with the h3 since moab. Replacement some stripped out spindle studs and went wheeling at AOAA.

Outside of that I did snag a 14b full float rear axle to compliment the dana 60 front. I'll begin working on swapping the axles in the late spring.