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Clicking noise?

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Started hearing a clicking noise coming from my truck I narrowed it down to the front drive shaft. When I move it by hand something on the tranny is making an odd clicking noise. I noticed slight fluid leaking from the area. Must have been leaking for a very long time form the looks of it.

Manual tranny. Shifts smooth and everything seems good. I do have a short throw shifter installed.

What should I do? Bring to a shop for proper diagnostic or just empty and refill the gear oil and pray?


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Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,455
Location
Wisconsin
954 Paulo
If drive shaft:
*remove bolts slide d/s out of truck
*check for play in each joint
*replace with new parts

Chris
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,249
Location
Tardville
Check the CV-joint on the rear end of the front driveshaft. Grab a flashlight and look closely up where it bolts to the transfer-case. If you see grease flung all over this area...your CV-boot has ripped and the joint has run dry. This is very common on H3's, and it often gets over-looked. The driveshaft CV-joint looks different from the half-shaft joints. It resides inside a small steel cup, and therefore...its hard to see the actual boot from directly below. Most of the time you can look rearward along the driveshaft tube, and see the rip in the boot. Sometimes you can even see the shiny steel balls of the joint, completely exposed and bone-dry! It will look like this...

attachment.php


Replace the whole shaft. A new one is around $200. I hear there may be a replacement CV that can be installed but, just like half-shafts on the front suspenion...its hardly worth the hassle. The shaft takes all of 5 minutes to remove...(4) 10mm bolts on the transfer case flange, and (4) 7/16 bolts at the front axle yoke. Make sure you chalk the wheels...PARK DOES NOT WORK ON THE H3 WITH ONLY ONE DRIVESHAFT.

For around $375, you can upgrade to a 70's full-size shaft and a double-cardan CV-joint. This type of joint uses twin U-joints rather than a booted 6-ball unit. They are much stronger (and greaseable) but, you could possibly experience some driveline vibrations at certain speeds. I can build you one, or you can get one from Toms or High-angle. This requires a special flange to connect to the H3's odd-ball transfer case output.
 

Attachments

  • ripped ds boot.JPG
    ripped ds boot.JPG
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954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Found this guy as I was changing the tcase and trans fliuds. Resting on the tcase skid.

Any idea where it goes to
u6uvybup.jpg



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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,249
Location
Tardville
WTF? No idea.

You might check the four bolts that attach the t-case to the trans. That's the only thing in the vicinity with bolts that big. Frankly, I cannot remember seeing any bolts with "captive" washers like that. Is it metric or SAE?

Hmmmm, indeed.
 

954paulo

Well-Known Member
Messages
467
Location
ny
Lol I'm hoping it's not from anything hummer related


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