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Crossbar Needs Replaced

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I'm going to replace my crossmember because my bushing under the Diff is bad. I have the original style.

I'm hoping to get one from Scorpworks eventually, but for now, if I pick up an OEM crossmember (newer style) they suggest a skid plate with it. Question, will it work for me without buying the newer skid plate? I have GM UCP. Can I make it work? If I can, then I'll probably send my original to Scorpworks for rebuilding and I'll keep it as a spare.

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Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
The new style crossmember is missing the drivers side tab for the original skid plate to mount to. I haven't seen the old style skid plate but I don't think it will fit properly.

original (left) vs new (right)

Image 8.jpg
 

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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
The new style crossmember is missing the drivers side tab for the original skid plate to mount to. I haven't seen the old style skid plate but I don't think it will fit properly.

original (left) vs new (right)

View attachment 22289
Thanks. There looks like there's a hole for a bolt in the new one. I think I could drill a hole in my skid plate to use. Wondering about the UCP though???

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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
The tab on the 1st gen is for the OEM UCP (covers the oil pan, transmission pan, and transfer case), and the hole you're talking about is farther away in the 2nd gen one, you'd actually need to bolt an extension to that and then bolt the UCP to the extension. The diff skid (which comes on all H3's) will bolt to the underside of both crossmembers.
 

woodwardsh3

Well-Known Member
Messages
519
Location
Oakland Co. Mi.
How much movement is normal when you lift the pinion with a 10'' prybar? Not pulling hard on the prybar mine moves about 5/8 to 3/4''. Wounder if this help my CV joint fail in my prop shaft.
 

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
How much movement is normal when you lift the pinion with a 10'' prybar? Not pulling hard on the prybar mine moves about 5/8 to 3/4''. Wounder if this help my CV joint fail in my prop shaft.
I haven't tried that, but I'm pretty sure if I don't get my crossmember or bushing fixed it'll cause more trouble down the line.

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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
The tab on the 1st gen is for the OEM UCP (covers the oil pan, transmission pan, and transfer case), and the hole you're talking about is farther away in the 2nd gen one, you'd actually need to bolt an extension to that and then bolt the UCP to the extension. The diff skid (which comes on all H3's) will bolt to the underside of both crossmembers.
Okay I think I understand.

What will the skid plate do that they are selling with the newer crossmember? Will that solve everything and allow me to bolt up my UCP?

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Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
Okay I think I understand.

What will the skid plate do that they are selling with the newer crossmember? Will that solve everything and allow me to bolt up my UCP?

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It all boils down to this:

The Newer skid plate will fit BOTH crossmembers.

The Older skid plate will Not fit both crossmembers.

The only difference between both skids is that 1 mounting hole. So yes, the new skid will solve everything and work smoothly with both crossmembers.
 
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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
The skid plate they are suggesting with the new version is probably the diff skid plate, not the UCP. The new version crossmember will need a tab welded to it to match the tab you see on the old version for mounting the UCP. The diff skid I guess is different as well with the new version? I've never heard of that, but I guess that's a thing. I know the front aluminum skid is different between the 06-07's and 08+, but I don't know about the steel diff skid.
 

Enter Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
244
Location
Southwest
Alright this is kind of a wording mess at this point. The post I put earlier was reffering to the steel UCP being different. If there is a difference with the front alluminum plate, I did not know about that either. There is a guy on YouTube who also replaced his original crossmember for the newer style crossmember. With the new crossmember, he got a new steel UCP plate. I found this video very helpful.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHxF9h3zCDs
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
While you probably can technically refer to the steel differential skid as UCP, generally whenever someone refers to UCP on the H3 they are talking about either the OEM optional three tube, two piece skids or aftermarket/custom skids that cover from the differential cross member back to the rear cross member just past the transfer case (which adds protection for the engine oil pan, the transmission fluid pan, and replacing the almost pointless transfer case skid plate).

The front two skids (the aluminum skid from the bumper to the first cross member and the steel skid from the first cross member to the differential cross member) are stock on all of the H3's and I haven't seen anyone refer to them as UCP even though technically that would be correct.

I'm just pointing this out to try to help avoid confusion based on what I have observed as the traditional use of terminology in the Hummer realm.

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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
"UCP - two-section bolt-on welded tubular steel protection for the drivetrain." That's what I have.
I'll have to figure out a way to bolt it down and the steel skid plate if I get a new style cross member.

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